I recently bought this gun off of gunbroker for $399+shipping and transfer.

My questions are: I assume this is just a normal model 36, nothing priceless? Its in excellent condition but I intend to carry it.

My other question is, it has a matte finish and what appear to be dehorned hammer, smooth trigger face, etc. I'm assuming that it'll be more comfortable to handle and carry than my 1964 M36 no dash (very horned)? I've read somewhere that the matte finish from this lineage tends to take on and show scratches more? As far as I can tell, it's 1976-1977 production J621xxx or J612xxx can't remember exactly but close enough.

I did call S&W customer service, got sent to Mr. Jinks but he's on vacation until May 16. Also tried an advanced search to no avail.

One more question: I guess I should get the cylinders chamfered like on my no dash?

Also, I ordered the Barami hip grip for this one. Hoping my 1 3/4" wilderness belt interacts well with it. Mr. Barami said to wear boxers if hammer gouge etc is an issue. I'm thinking I might order the Chicago Rocker or Summer Heat from BellCharterOak if the hip grip doesn't work out. But I'm guessing it will. I want fairly deep concealment to guard against panty-wetting liberals but I'd prefer not be poking myself with too deep of a ride. Presently carrying my snubby 1230 appendix in a Desantis Insider. I like the idea though of being able to shoot out to 30 or so feet more easily and have taken Chic Gaylord's advice to get a 3 inch barrel.

Thanks.

SMITH & WESSON ROVOLVER 36-3" HEAVY BARREL : Revolvers at GunBroker.com

Hammer spur is still right there, I don't know what you mean by "dehorned".

Finish is a reblue - Smith doesn't blue the hammer and trigger - and the orange sight insert is aftermarket.

Thanks for the reply, Jim.

I didn't notice that the hammer and the trigger were reblued. hmmmm.....otoh, the revolver does look less horned than my no dash.

From Grant Cunningham's page:

"“Dehorning”: There are many sharp edges on revolvers that can make handling, especially reloading, painful – particularly when you are moving “at speed.” Dehorning gently smooths those edges so that your hands (and clothes and holsters) won’t wear as readily. This is NOT a “meltdown” – the edges are smooth, but the appearance of the gun is not dramatically altered. I like to say that this is a modification that you FEEL, but don’t SEE! (This requires that the gun be refinished, unless you like a very “well worn” look.)"

I think that will make a great carry revolver. I would probably bob the hammer if it were mine. The orange insert should help with quickly acquiring a good sight picture. I have a similar 3 incher that has been hard chromed. I shoot it much better than a 2 inch barrel.

Thanks, R. I had a lot of nice work done on my snub, much of it for free. Will have to post a review with photos. The orange insert was kind of washed out though. This one looks a bit better, although it's probably 40 years old. I am looking forward to shooting the three incher, will probably test it at the range tomorrow.

I'm going to the same place as you, but taking a different route. I just bought a 60-15 Pro series 3". I ordered a Summer Heat today. This is joining four other J frames, all 2". I usually carry a 638 with Desantis clip grip, but I'm looking forward to supplementing my carry options with a 3".

Definitely a refinished gun with an oversized after market red front sight insert installed. That's why it went for under $400 bucks. Not saying it won't be a fine shooter but just go over it very carefully before using it for CCW.

Yeah, Chief38, I'm just looking for a shooter/carry piece. My 98% Chief no-dash quickly got the backstrap scratched from carry as well as a number of other blemishes, so refinishing isn't a big deal to me. I will check out a video on checking revolver condition again for a refresher, however. Thanks.

You sir, are evidently smart. Great minds, think alike etc etc.

I probably should've gone the hip clip route with my 638 but thought that I would carry it as a primary so I ordered an Alessi holster for it. Mistake on my part-doesn't conceal like I want it to, and I would rather carry a heavier 3 incher as a primary. My backup is my KelTec P-32.

My 638 does give good service in winter as my primary with a compact 1911 as a backup.

Before you shoot it clean it and check out the barrel just past the forcing cone. In the pic there seems to be a patch of something (rust maybe?). Could just be a flaw in the photo.

I also have several 3 in Barreled 36s.

I have dehorned the hammers in several of them.

I also checker the top of the hammers on the dehorned ones so that I

can reach up with my thumb and more firmly grasp it if I want to shoot

the gun single action.

If your going to carry the weapon for Self Defense in a concealed

manner, a dehorned hammer on a J Frame and some K Frames is

the only way to go in my opinion.

Rule 303

Okay picked up the revolver.

Looks good but I think the bore has rust.

Could you tell me what you think?

Sorry the camera and I didnt do a great job but. ....





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Okay I think these photos are a little better. ...


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Smith J-Frames are basically good workhorse handguns. The 3-inch versions were optional on duty carry back in time here in NYC for female police officers. The extra inch doesn't really affect the concealment factor and may or may not shoot more accurate, although it should with an additional inch-of-iron. Three inch makes it less of a pocket pistol certainly. With the rust n' stuff I think the price was too much. The orange plastic insert (I had a red insert on my old Det. Spl. back in 1974) doesn't add anything to getting on to your target. I like J-Frames and have a Titanium Airlite which has a horrible recoil. In the past I Tefloned coated my old J-Frame Model 36, then deactivated it after I retired and sold my Stainless Model 60 for 200.00 back in 2000. The gun is of moderate size so any carry would work well. I also didn't see a "dehorned" hammer unless the pix was another firearm. If it wasn't cut-off you can just remove the hammer spur yourself and reblue where you cut it after file smoothing. There's many types of finishes you can use, Ceracoat?, etc. As mentioned for a workhorse gun, don't put too much into it.

Thanks Mal and all. I'm no expert/gunsmith but I believe that unfortunately the bore has rust. Its got reddish lines in the lands and grooves. Not too deep but.

I found a link to dealing for rust from the forum and followed as best I could with what I had on hand.

I hit it with Hoppes Copper solvent Smith and Wesson Chlorine based Heavy Duty bore cleaner, brasso then with a brass brush. Then I soaked the bore and cylinder charge holes in CLP and am letting that soak from 230pm to 8pm. Then I'll hit it again with the brass brush, patches. I may soak the barrel in Hoppes #9 overnight and clean it in the morning.

Tomorrow I'll have the gunsmith look at it after work, shoot some jacketed bullets and reclean.

I'm assuming this problem isn't fatal- it's disappointing and aggravating but I really like this gun better than my snubby no dash. The orange insert and the rear sights are great- a real difference from the washed out insert and narrow rear sights of my snubby.

The right front half of the trigger guard is also relieved which is really cool- this was probably a duty gun for a female NYPD. Too bad the armory, the cop or the idiot who bought it afterward didn't pay more attention to the barrel.

One bright spot is my FFL said he didn't see any pitting and neither do I. I'm no expert though.

How can I remove rust inside a barrel?

okay, I let it soak in CLP for 6.5 hours, got home with some choreboy, soaked the choreboy in hoppes on a brush, ran the choreboy through about 80+ times, followed by 3 to 7 patches of hoppes, then hoppes oil, then a dry patch. Also hit the charge holes of the cylinder for good measure with the above, although maybe 10 repetitions per hole.

Got a lot of rust and more dirt out, although there's still rust in there. Will take it to the gunsmith tomorrow and see what he says.

I guess the next step is to shoot 50 rounds of jacketed bullets, more soaking more choreboy, etc.

Too bad about the rust. If it is really bad the good news is that for relatively little expense you could rebarrel it. Check ebay and gunbroker, (just make sure to check out the pictures really good!).

Also, with all that rust you might want to pull the sideplate off and see what the action looks like.

Good news - what I thought was rust it's just copper fouling.

Took it to the gunsmith two days ago. Have gotten much of the copper out but will have to order a foaming cleaner to really blast the bore.

One question: one of the clerks said that he always cleans from the breach to the bore going with the rifling. Otherwise he says you clog up the rifling and risk damaging the crown of the muzzle. I tried cleaning his way and it's a real PITA with a revolver. Do I really need to go in this direction with the rod? If so could I use a boresnake for most of the job?

Thanks.

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Interesting about the rebarrel. You mean buy a new barrel, have it fitted and the action retimed?

I looked into that for a charter bulldog and the smiths said the cost wouldn't make sense.

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