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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 05-15-2016, 04:20 PM
Izzydog Izzydog is offline
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Talking My Model 12 cunnundrum

Hi Guys!
Recently, I have dabbled in the black art of reloading. My preferred round in .38 special, is a 150 grain SWC, over 4.1 grains of Unique. It's a nice mild load, that shouldn't stress any .38 special. So far, I've only shot my reloads in a 6" model 28-2, however I have an unnatural yearning to shoot them in my model 12-2. My problem is that, my M-12 is a "NIB" 2" square butt SN D6661XX. I purchased this piece 15-20 years ago from a shop in Spartanburg SC, and have never had any desire to shoot it. If I shoot it, I'll destroy any collectors value,but I don't think they are going for much anyway. So my question is, should I shoot it, leave it as is, and focus on my steel framed guns? I'm very curious what Y'all think,I should do.
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:40 PM
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I have the same "problem" as you, mine being a 2" boxed mint nickel specimen. I have enough other guns to shoot, but I, like you, would like to see what the model 12 feels like in action.
Sorry I can't help you on this one.
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:45 PM
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Go buy a well used model 12
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:56 PM
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I'm guessing that it has a 1968 DOB based on the dash#, serial number, and grips "non diamond" service, gleened from the third edition of the SCSW. But hey I'm a plebe when it comes to the pre 70's stuff.
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:44 AM
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I have a fondness (wanting) for a 2" Model 12. I have always been concerned with the frame cracking issue. That has kept me from buying 1. I reload .38, but am very conservative on my loads. (no hotties) Bob
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:55 AM
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USE IT, SHOOT IT !!
That is what it was made for.
*** If you don't shoot it, the next owner will
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:06 AM
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If you are not going to shoot it and worried about collector value sell it to a collector and buy a good shooter with the cash.

All my guns are previously owned and get shot regularly including a 99% 5 screw .45 Cal Model of 1955.

Shooting is my enjoyment,not drooling over pieces of metal in a box.

Naturally,your mileage may vary.
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:47 AM
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If you shoot it how much will it devalue it? $100 - $150? You can still keep it nice and clean if you don't abuse it, so it could still bring a good price down the road.

Personally for that much I would want to shoot it and enjoy it while I had it, not save it for someone else.
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:00 AM
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I've never shot a Model 12 or owned any alloy revolvers but in my personal experience a minimum of a 3" barrel,adjustable sights and comfortable grips make for better shooting at the range.

Sell the 2" unfired Model 12
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:39 AM
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Hello from VA and SoFL. I have a Mod-12 NIB like you. I also have one I carry and shoot.Its your call. If you can afford to keep it NIB, do so and buy another one or shoot the ones you have.
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:43 PM
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Im with the "Dont shoot it crowd" mainly because it is a collectors piece and if the barrel was torqued too tight it can crack and there is no factory warranty or replacement policy so it goes from collector gun to paperweight in a millisecond.

While I prefer an airweight snub for CCW I dont enjoy shooting them at the range compared to their steel frame counterparts mainly due to their increased recoil and decreased durability.
Perhaps a good compromise is to pick up a newer J frame airweight with a lifetime warranty to shoot at the range, if your reminiscing about having your hand smacked in CCD by the school nun or you enjoyed lighting off firecrackers in your bare hands as a child perhaps the the Airweight J frame 357 Magnum series is the one for you ....
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:51 PM
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I don't think the Model 12 was designed to shoot a lot. An Air Force shooting instructor I once worked with used to call the things disposable guns. In large part they were intended as a light pilot's gun to use if shot down (i.e., good enough for as short mission.

The problem with nearly all of S&W's aluminum frame guns is that the designers retained the profile of the steel frame counterparts even though common sense would dictate that an aluminum frame would have to be beefed up - especially at that thin spot under where the barrel screws in (where they crack). Even with more bulk, they still would have been lighter than steel. I love S&W, but that's some poor engineering (or perhaps the marketing people over-ruled the engineers).

Yeah, I know a lot of folks love them, but the failure rate could have been much reduced had the aluminum guns been given their own profile.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:53 PM
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I'm curious. When did the model 12 become a collector and how would you value a 1977 12-2 4" round butt with original box, paperwork & tools in unfired (factory fired only) condition. Absolutely no turn line. This is the sock drawer gun everyone wants to find.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:08 PM
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When you do not know what to do with a machine read the instructions. Read your 12-2's barrel. If S&W stamped it Carry This Gun then you know what to do. Buy a holster. Practice to learn its POI before going to town.
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:24 AM
Izzydog Izzydog is offline
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Well, that settles it! I guess, I'll part with the old gal, maybe trade her for a nice, gently used model 10. I'd really hate to make a paperweight out of her. I've seen several Model 12's throughout the years, several with the dreaded crack. I wonder, just how dangerous it would be to shoot one with the crack, and if there could be any way to strengthen the area I'd rather rehome her, and get something I won't feel paranoid about shooting.
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Old 05-29-2016, 10:23 AM
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I had a pre model 12 serial C224xxx which had the alloy cylinder.
It was shot thousands of times. All factory loaded lead bullets.
The alloy cylinder held up well, the frame did not crack.
BUT the frame did stretch!
Sent the frame back to S&W and they wee able to supply a new one with the original serial number, fitted with a steel cylinder.
I had kept the alloy one, which was sold to a fellow restoring a government destroyed revolver.
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Old 05-29-2016, 01:01 PM
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1. Well you have to decide if you are a collector running a museum or a user of vintage firearms. I am in the latter category. Once you determine that you will know how to proceed.

2. My 38 Special load is 158 grain SWC over 4.5 grains of Unique.

3. Sell it if you are not going to use it is my thoughts. Refer back to item 1 though.
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Old 05-29-2016, 01:09 PM
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There's "shooters" and "collector guns." Don't shoot it. Find another well-worn "shooter" for the range.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:32 AM
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I took the old gal to the LGS. They seemed impressed by its pristine condition, however would only offer me $300 or so, I paid $425 OTD 15 years ago . The funny thing is, their most plain Jane vanilla model 10 was $595 I guess that, I'm done buying guns for the foreseeable future

So I've decided to shoot the old dame, with some light reloads. Hopefully I'll be able to take it out soon, and give her a rundown. I will make a point of reporting, my impressions.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Izzydog View Post
I took the old gal to the LGS. They seemed impressed by its pristine condition, however would only offer me $300 or so, I paid $425 OTD 15 years ago . The funny thing is, their most plain Jane vanilla model 10 was $595 I guess that, I'm done buying guns for the foreseeable future

So I've decided to shoot the old dame, with some light reloads. Hopefully I'll be able to take it out soon, and give her a rundown. I will make a point of reporting, my impressions.
What did you expect from a dealer? They will lowball you on everything, because they have to resell it at a profit. Try selling it on your own.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Izzydog View Post
I took the old gal to the LGS. They seemed impressed by its pristine condition, however would only offer me $300 or so, I paid $425 OTD 15 years ago . The funny thing is, their most plain Jane vanilla model 10 was $595 I guess that, I'm done buying guns for the foreseeable future

So I've decided to shoot the old dame, with some light reloads. Hopefully I'll be able to take it out soon, and give her a rundown. I will make a point of reporting, my impressions.
That sound's pretty typical. A LGS isn't going to offer you retail. They're in business to make money. You might have better luck selling it to this group.
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:55 AM
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After much contemplation, I took my pristine model 12 to the range. I fired about 50 rounds without incident, no frame cracking . The only issue encountered was caused by, a failure to properly seat a primer "My fault at the reloading bench". She was snappy, even with my lite loads. Accuracy seemed about average, but I was shooting at cans, and old cantaloupes. I don't regret shooting it, and plan on many more trips with her.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:46 PM
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Mr. Izzy, glad you went to the range. And enjoyed the shoot.
I just got an as new unfired 6" Mod-28 from the 1966 era.
Im going to shoot it, that is what the old guys made it for.
Just my opinion, and Im entitled to it. Yes I have a few queens, but
I have duplicates I shoot and carry. Some, not all. Just clean it and enjoy it. Best
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Old 06-11-2016, 12:49 AM
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If you could lay your hands on some traditional soft swaged 148 grain hollow base wad cutters I think you'd find them delightful over 2.7 grains of Bullseye. I used to be able to count on any 3" or longer S&W .38 Special or .357 grouping them in 2" or less at 25 yards. I haven't gotten in enough range time to bet I could do that with a random S&W today. Also that load is easy on revolvers.

BTW, one of our esteemed members swears that if you look close enough at Sgt. Joe Fridays snub in old shows it is a square butt 2" Model 12.
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Old 06-11-2016, 08:19 AM
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I've been there - with a unfired gun or two, and, like you, shot them. You can shoot them several times and they'll clean up like new. Only you'll be able to tell.

I wouldn't worry about it.

On the dealer thing; I'm shocked they didn't offer you "uh hun-derd-in-a haff". That seems to be the going dealer buying price for anything.
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