|
|
05-20-2016, 11:36 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 51
Likes: 19
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
|
|
K frame rosewood target grips??
I purchased a set of k frame target grips online, thinking they were made of walnut. They had some scratches in the finish, but no dents or dings. I sanded them smooth and and applied Tru oil. I left them overnight, but the finish was still tacky the next day. I had read earlier that Rosewood had to be sealed before you could apply a finish. Does anyone know if Smith and Wesson made target grips out of Rosewood? I've seen presentation grips made from Rosewood, but l haven't seen targets made from Rosewood. Any reply will be appreciated.
Thanks
|
05-20-2016, 11:39 AM
|
US Veteran SWCA Member Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: upstate SC / Mtns SW Va
Posts: 4,789
Likes: 3,064
Liked 9,875 Times in 1,986 Posts
|
|
yes, they made rosewood targets. We need a pic.
Charlie
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-20-2016, 11:39 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 15,136
Likes: 91,873
Liked 26,395 Times in 8,415 Posts
|
|
a pic would help,but they could be rosewoid
|
05-20-2016, 11:56 AM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Western ,Ma.
Posts: 6,233
Likes: 12,714
Liked 13,462 Times in 3,396 Posts
|
|
Yes they made them out of Rosewood and I have used tru oil on sets without sealing beforehand also.
I always strip them prior in acetone.
I also would like to see a picture.
A little side note Be careful sanding as some are highly allergic to the dust.
Also care must be taken with the use of acetone.
You have a fun little project enjoy.....You will get the desired results.
Thought of this afterward but Did you apply very thinly?
When I've done them it is usually just two little dabs on my finger per side
Both these sets I have done that way
__________________
Paul
S&WCA #2726
Last edited by weatherby; 05-20-2016 at 01:10 PM.
|
The Following 7 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-20-2016, 12:45 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 2,972
Liked 3,764 Times in 684 Posts
|
|
__________________
USAF AMMO
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-20-2016, 02:40 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 51
Likes: 19
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
|
|
I had already put a light coat of shellac on them. You can probably tell more from seeing the.back. I'm electronically challenged, so l hope these.come through.
Tom
|
05-20-2016, 10:03 PM
|
US Veteran SWCA Member Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: upstate SC / Mtns SW Va
Posts: 4,789
Likes: 3,064
Liked 9,875 Times in 1,986 Posts
|
|
the grain does not look like rosewood to me. More like a dark set of Goncalo Alves.
Charlie
|
05-20-2016, 10:50 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Western ,Ma.
Posts: 6,233
Likes: 12,714
Liked 13,462 Times in 3,396 Posts
|
|
Charlie I'm not a wood expert by any means but I blew the pictures up pretty large and am pretty certain it is indeed a Rosewood set IMHO
__________________
Paul
S&WCA #2726
|
05-20-2016, 11:54 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: SOCAL
Posts: 706
Likes: 192
Liked 841 Times in 210 Posts
|
|
I believe they are also,if you look at the closeness of the grain
on the INSIDE of the grips. I'd buy those in a heartbeat,Pete
I let these go because the gun was reblued
__________________
NRA LIFE 1974
Last edited by GM4spd; 05-20-2016 at 11:59 PM.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-21-2016, 12:10 AM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Western ,Ma.
Posts: 6,233
Likes: 12,714
Liked 13,462 Times in 3,396 Posts
|
|
They were a little light for you anyway Pete
__________________
Paul
S&WCA #2726
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-21-2016, 08:31 AM
|
|
Moderator
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Indiana, USA
Posts: 9,408
Likes: 1,323
Liked 30,527 Times in 4,375 Posts
|
|
This is one of the nicest sets of K-frame, rosewood diamond targets I have run across. I purchased the set about fifteen years ago.
Bill
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-21-2016, 08:53 AM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Southwest Iowa
Posts: 10,867
Likes: 2,688
Liked 18,970 Times in 5,589 Posts
|
|
I don't like the blue dots.
|
05-21-2016, 09:07 AM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Central IL
Posts: 22,804
Likes: 18,554
Liked 22,423 Times in 8,277 Posts
|
|
You mentioned you had put a coat of shellac on them before the tru-oil? If so that is your problem. They will need to be stripped with acetone (soak overnight in it) and be sure all the finish completely removed. Then when applying the tru-oil just dab your fingertip in it and rub that into the wood. Let dry overnight, then "lightly" rub down with 0000 steel wool wipe off with clean rag and repeat finish. I usually put 4 to 5 coats on. If you don't like the glossy look, wait a week, then make a paste with rotten stone and mineral oil and gently rub out. it will just break the gloss and smooth out the finish very attractively.
__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244
|
05-21-2016, 09:07 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hills of North Georgia
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 1,854
Liked 12,479 Times in 3,412 Posts
|
|
I thought oil type finishes needed to penetrate into the wood for them to work properly. Wouldn't applying a sealer first stop the Tru Oil from doing this? Seems that if it just sitting on top of the sealer it would take far longer to dry. Tru Oil's spec sheet does mention Rosewood but makes no mention of sealing it first, just says it's an oily wood and might need some thinner added for penetration.
Pasted from their website:
Tru-Oil has a difficult time penetrating and drying on oily woods (i.e. ebony rosewood and cocobolo). If using an oily wood, you can try using mineral spirits to thin out the Tru-Oil or seal the wood prior to the Tru-Oil application.
__________________
LIVE FROM THE DAWGHOUSE
|
05-21-2016, 01:39 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Western ,Ma.
Posts: 6,233
Likes: 12,714
Liked 13,462 Times in 3,396 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Targets Guy
I don't like the blue dots.
|
I do as the tape is easily removed and protects the medallions while working on the grips
__________________
Paul
S&WCA #2726
|
05-21-2016, 01:56 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Santo las nubes, Florida
Posts: 9,004
Likes: 9,242
Liked 14,710 Times in 4,706 Posts
|
|
Top 29-2 GA, middle 27-2 Rosewood, bottom 25-5 Walnut. Joe
__________________
Wisdom chases me; I'm faster
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-21-2016, 02:30 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Connecticut Yankee
Posts: 2,380
Likes: 744
Liked 3,575 Times in 789 Posts
|
|
Scrub them with paint thinner and a stiff tooth brush in a ventilated area. This should remove what you have put on it. Let dry. Lightly sand with 220 dry. Rinse in the paint thinner and let dry overnight. Apply Tru oil with a little dab on your finger. Very thin. If it looks like it's soaking in do it again and rub out with your fingers. Let dry overnight. Lightly sand with a 400 scuff pad. wipe clean and apply one more coat of Tru oil the same way you did it the first time. DO NOT apply to the checkering. Let dry overnight. If you like the way they look good. If not do the 400 again. Do as often as you deem necessary. Your taste not mine. Final coat is hard past wax. A thin coat will do. I normally do this step twice. Apply with tooth brush and buff with a shoe brush. Rub out with a terry towel till they are not sticky. Enjoy.
DW
__________________
"NUTS"
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-21-2016, 04:48 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 51
Likes: 19
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
|
|
Thanks to all for the information. You really are a great help yo a novice like
myself.
|
05-21-2016, 06:25 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 7,244
Likes: 18,583
Liked 11,108 Times in 3,306 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFAN
Scrub them with paint thinner and a stiff tooth brush in a ventilated area. This should remove what you have put on it. Let dry. Lightly sand with 220 dry. Rinse in the paint thinner and let dry overnight. Apply Tru oil with a little dab on your finger. Very thin. If it looks like it's soaking in do it again and rub out with your fingers. Let dry overnight. Lightly sand with a 400 scuff pad. wipe clean and apply one more coat of Tru oil the same way you did it the first time. DO NOT apply to the checkering. Let dry overnight. If you like the way they look good. If not do the 400 again. Do as often as you deem necessary. Your taste not mine. Final coat is hard past wax. A thin coat will do. I normally do this step twice. Apply with tooth brush and buff with a shoe brush. Rub out with a terry towel till they are not sticky. Enjoy.
DW
|
Great information, thanks for sharing!
__________________
Miss My Buddy crsides!!
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|