K frame rosewood target grips??

tsor1951 · #1 05-20-2016, 11:36 AM

I purchased a set of k frame target grips online, thinking they were made of walnut. They had some scratches in the finish, but no dents or dings. I sanded them smooth and and applied Tru oil. I left them overnight, but the finish was still tacky the next day. I had read earlier that Rosewood had to be sealed before you could apply a finish. Does anyone know if Smith and Wesson made target grips out of Rosewood? I've seen presentation grips made from Rosewood, but l haven't seen targets made from Rosewood. Any reply will be appreciated.
Thanks

crsides · #2 05-20-2016, 11:39 AM

yes, they made rosewood targets. We need a pic.

Charlie

arjay · #3 05-20-2016, 11:39 AM

a pic would help,but they could be rosewoid

weatherby · #4 05-20-2016, 11:56 AM

Yes they made them out of Rosewood and I have used tru oil on sets without sealing beforehand also.
I always strip them prior in acetone.
I also would like to see a picture.

A little side note Be careful sanding as some are highly allergic to the dust.
Also care must be taken with the use of acetone.

You have a fun little project enjoy.....You will get the desired results.

Thought of this afterward but Did you apply very thinly?
When I've done them it is usually just two little dabs on my finger per side

Both these sets I have done that way

GunarSailors · #5 05-20-2016, 12:45 PM

tsor1951 · #6 05-20-2016, 02:40 PM

I had already put a light coat of shellac on them. You can probably tell more from seeing the.back. I'm electronically challenged, so l hope these.come through.
Tom

crsides · #7 05-20-2016, 10:03 PM

the grain does not look like rosewood to me. More like a dark set of Goncalo Alves.

Charlie

weatherby · #8 05-20-2016, 10:50 PM

Charlie I'm not a wood expert by any means but I blew the pictures up pretty large and am pretty certain it is indeed a Rosewood set IMHO

GM4spd · #9 05-20-2016, 11:54 PM

I believe they are also,if you look at the closeness of the grain
on the INSIDE of the grips. I'd buy those in a heartbeat,Pete

I let these go because the gun was reblued

weatherby · #10 05-21-2016, 12:10 AM

They were a little light for you anyway Pete

Doc44 · #11 05-21-2016, 08:31 AM

This is one of the nicest sets of K-frame, rosewood diamond targets I have run across. I purchased the set about fifteen years ago.

Bill

Targets Guy · #12 05-21-2016, 08:53 AM

I don't like the blue dots.

H Richard · #13 05-21-2016, 09:07 AM

You mentioned you had put a coat of shellac on them before the tru-oil? If so that is your problem. They will need to be stripped with acetone (soak overnight in it) and be sure all the finish completely removed. Then when applying the tru-oil just dab your fingertip in it and rub that into the wood. Let dry overnight, then "lightly" rub down with 0000 steel wool wipe off with clean rag and repeat finish. I usually put 4 to 5 coats on. If you don't like the glossy look, wait a week, then make a paste with rotten stone and mineral oil and gently rub out. it will just break the gloss and smooth out the finish very attractively.

sheepdawg · #14 05-21-2016, 09:07 AM

I thought oil type finishes needed to penetrate into the wood for them to work properly. Wouldn't applying a sealer first stop the Tru Oil from doing this? Seems that if it just sitting on top of the sealer it would take far longer to dry. Tru Oil's spec sheet does mention Rosewood but makes no mention of sealing it first, just says it's an oily wood and might need some thinner added for penetration.

Pasted from their website:
Tru-Oil has a difficult time penetrating and drying on oily woods (i.e. ebony rosewood and cocobolo). If using an oily wood, you can try using mineral spirits to thin out the Tru-Oil or seal the wood prior to the Tru-Oil application.

weatherby · #15 05-21-2016, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Targets Guy

I don't like the blue dots.

I do as the tape is easily removed and protects the medallions while working on the grips

pharmer · #16 05-21-2016, 01:56 PM

Top 29-2 GA, middle 27-2 Rosewood, bottom 25-5 Walnut. Joe

DWFAN · #17 05-21-2016, 02:30 PM

Scrub them with paint thinner and a stiff tooth brush in a ventilated area. This should remove what you have put on it. Let dry. Lightly sand with 220 dry. Rinse in the paint thinner and let dry overnight. Apply Tru oil with a little dab on your finger. Very thin. If it looks like it's soaking in do it again and rub out with your fingers. Let dry overnight. Lightly sand with a 400 scuff pad. wipe clean and apply one more coat of Tru oil the same way you did it the first time. DO NOT apply to the checkering. Let dry overnight. If you like the way they look good. If not do the 400 again. Do as often as you deem necessary. Your taste not mine. Final coat is hard past wax. A thin coat will do. I normally do this step twice. Apply with tooth brush and buff with a shoe brush. Rub out with a terry towel till they are not sticky. Enjoy.

DW

tsor1951 · #18 05-21-2016, 04:48 PM

Thanks to all for the information. You really are a great help yo a novice like
myself.

boykinlp · #19 05-21-2016, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWFAN

Scrub them with paint thinner and a stiff tooth brush in a ventilated area. This should remove what you have put on it. Let dry. Lightly sand with 220 dry. Rinse in the paint thinner and let dry overnight. Apply Tru oil with a little dab on your finger. Very thin. If it looks like it's soaking in do it again and rub out with your fingers. Let dry overnight. Lightly sand with a 400 scuff pad. wipe clean and apply one more coat of Tru oil the same way you did it the first time. DO NOT apply to the checkering. Let dry overnight. If you like the way they look good. If not do the 400 again. Do as often as you deem necessary. Your taste not mine. Final coat is hard past wax. A thin coat will do. I normally do this step twice. Apply with tooth brush and buff with a shoe brush. Rub out with a terry towel till they are not sticky. Enjoy.

DW

Great information, thanks for sharing!