I am constantly amazed by what I've learned on this Forum. Flitz, of course, was something I never knew existed. Six months of using it has sure paid off. The Ren Wax was difficult for me to find. The internet took care of that, and my jar arrived today. . .enough to last for at least 100 years. This is that piece of crud I bought at the gun show this past weekend. The clean up and Flitz revealed a 95% gun. Today, the Ren Wax turned it into a mirror. Hard to tell it from a LNIB one. It even feels different. I've always wished I could find a product that would somehow refinish a gun without refinishing it. This is it!

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M10-6 Nickel Ren Wax.jpg (117.3 KB, 1376 views)

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Dr. B

Renaissance Wax does not discriminate by age what they enhance.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Hello DocB, piece of crud? not in my book. You got a beauty. A diamond in the rough. Good snag. Little work and you got a beauty. You are getting a heck of an eye. Have fun. Best. Mike

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

I bought the same size container and also thought it would last 100 years for me but also for the next person to use it as well.

Wish I got this stuff sooner.

I think I'm on my tenth gun now. Amazing, and so easy to apply. I'm starting to wonder why gun sellers don't take the time to clean up their guns. They could probably get 50% more. Although, it is kind of fun trying to see through all the dirt.

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Dr. B

Renaissance Wax is the greatest thing since pockets on a shirt, turns nickel into a mirror. Beautiful piece by the way.

Flitz and RenWax are definitely 2 great products. I use them all the time. You have to watch out with using Flitz as it will remove finish. As long as you go slow and watch yourself, it will clean up blue, nickel, and STS well.

One hint though with the RenWax, I also got the 200ml jar, and was told by the person who recommended it to me that it would last a life-time as well and I believed it at first.

However, if you shoot your guns quite a bit, you will use up more than you think,,especially if you put a nice coat on it. I apply it to all my guns for storage, then when you shoot, cleaning after is easier. But then after you clean, you need to re-apply. The jar starts to go down.

After a detail strip cleaning, I will lather up the grip frame really good then just put the grips back on without buffing it off. Great rust protection underneath grips. Then I coat the rest of the gun and it gets buffed off obviously, but a micro coating still remains. I think it is better than oil for the outside of the frame and on the finish. I stick with oil only on the insides and cylinder.

Once I got back into acquiring firearms and specifically S&W's the first three things I bought were Flitz, Renaissance Wax and Mothers Nag Polish.
hardcase60

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You want me to do what?

I got P L E N T Y of Mothers Nag Polish!! It came Free to ME!!

Save the used rag with the polish and lightly do your blued guns.

I use Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (restored a nickel Model 37 to new) and wanted to know if anyone could tell me how the other products differ from it.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

Old Cop, if you are referring to Mother's Mag, Flitz, and Renaissance Wax, the first two are similar in that they are lightly abrasive, can be used carefully to remove surface crud from blued, nickel, and stainless guns. As you know from your use of Mother's, it works great but you need to know when to quit. I prefer it to Flitz mostly because Mother's is easy to find. I used it on a neglected Model 15. Not so much on my other guns because I don't let them get in that condition. Ren Wax, as others have noted, is applied in a very light coat and then polished with a soft cloth. Puts a shine on any firearm finish and provides a level of protection. Long answer to what may not have been your question.

Your revolver looks finer than a new set of snow tires!
Seriously, that's a beaut. Don't forget a range report.

IMO:
If Renaissance Wax worked on females as well as it works on guns the 40+ year old's would look like 20 something's again!
Jim

Yup you got the lifetime supply size. I have the smaller size of Renaissance Wax and I still have not made a major dent in it and I use it for many things other then guns.

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Dave

Mothers Nag Polish is similar to but more expensive than Mothers Mag Polish. You pay extra for the yapping. hardcase60

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You want me to do what?

Hello Everyone,

Just to let you know, Picreator Enterprises Ltd. (the maker of Renaissance Wax) also makes a product called Pre-Lim Surface Cleaner. I attached a copy of the instructions that came with the product.

I used to sell Renaissance Wax for over ten years. This product does not require power buffing. Just make sure you are standing/sitting over a surface like carpet, rubber matting, etc. The item being polished becomes very slippery and can 'squirt' out of your polishing cloth (don't ask me how I know this).

You can easily find Renaissance Wax at stores that cater to wood turners.

Bill

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PreLim Surface Cleaner Instructions.jpg (74.7 KB, 286 views)

I have used the pre lim on blued revolvers and it works great

I've never tried Ren Wax or Flitz. Would you happen to have any "before" photos of your gun? If so, I'd be interested in seeing them. Thanks.

Actually, I didn't take any "before" pictures. I was so ashamed of the appearance of the gun, I stuck it in the box and wouldn't even show it to any of my dealer friends. I did make one exception and showed it to a friend of 20 years. He grunted and said, "Well, at that price, you probably won't lose any money on it." The grips were so coated with crud, I wasn't even sure that they matched. I figured they would be "throw aways" for sure. At first, I didn't even think the gun was nickel. I asked for a screwdriver to remove the grips. They really didn't want me doing that. I had to take a gamble, but the gun was cheap. When I got it home, I immediately tore it into pieces, confirmed it was marked nickel, confirmed the date of manufacture, confirmed that the grips were added probably in the early 1970's, and used every tool at my disposal to begin to clean it up. I really didn't want any pictures. I probably should have taken one. At this point I'm pretty sure it is unfired.

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Dr. B

Here's my 'gold washed', thats what the seller thought, nickle pre model 10 that I used Mothers to polish up. What a difference. And my mismatched 2 inch that I Fitzed. Both are super shooters.

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I had bought some awhile back but haven't got around to applying it to my 27-2. Will be applying some now & that looks great!

I have to laugh, Every pic I see of Ren Wax has a dent on the lid like mine.....HAhaha

I read with interest all of the replies in this thread and am considering a purchase of this product for use on my S&W revolvers; M66-4, M60-15 and M36 (no dash). It's available on Amazon in both the 67ml and 200ml sizes.

However, can anyone confirm that the "micro-crystals" in Ren-Wax will not adversely affect a blued finish? I do understand that "aggressive" use of Flitz on a blued gun is not recommended.

Thanks all!

I can say with confidence, It will not effect your blued guns. I have used it on all of my guns, blues, nickel and stainless. Only make them look nicer and easer to clean. A silicone cloth works well after handling but for after cleaning I use the Ren Wax. If the national firearms museum uses it, that works for me. Good question.

Right on as Museums use it on firearms and many other items that need protection.

My female doctor asked my wife if she was my daughter the other day. She's 63yo and still hasn't aged. I'm 65yo and look 80? Go figure.

I use the used rag with the simi chrome polish lightly on the blued guns. They look awesome.

I've wondered the same thing many times. I have been known to buy a gun just so I could clean it up. I'm getting so I can spot those dirty gems in a case.

I've gently used Flitz to clean up a number of guns. Sometimes it's amazing what's under all that "crud." I suppose if you used a power buffer, or worked a lot harder than I'm willing to, you could damage a finish, but I never have.

Based on what I've read here, I just ordered a can of Ren Wax.

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John 3:16 .

I do the same thing. I am much more likely to buy a filthy gun than one that looks like it was made yesterday. Plus, they are so much cheaper. For gun sellers, lazy has it's own cost.

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Dr. B

This is what it will do for a blued gun. . .a Regulation Police 32 made in 1922. This gun didn't really have any problems to start with, but the Ren Wax does make it shine a little more. Plus, it gives that layer of protection. This is that gun I "stole" at the LGS a few months ago.

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IMG_0327.jpg (132.5 KB, 207 views)

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Dr. B

Before...After

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Regards,
Bruce

Finally bought some. Playing with it now. So far very impressive.

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S&WCA #3012

I'm told it protects metal and wood better than any kind of oil or wax. So, I guess we don't have to worry about rust anymore.

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Dr. B

Worked wonders on my 1958 Model 31 (before & after).

Next (after a Mother's Mag treatment): my S&W clip point and 2 bits.

You've created a monster.

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	Model 31, 3-screw.jpg (136.3 KB, 131 views)
	Mod 31, S&W clippoint, Wyo 2 bits.jpg (95.6 KB, 129 views)

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Wrangler of stray Chiefs
Bob

I have a model 60 (stainless). It's not dirty but it obviously has spent it's life getting banged around in a purse or under a car seat, etc. It is dull from a lot of scratches. What product would work best in polishing the finish and hopefully getting some of the scratches out? Thanks

I used Mothers Mag Wheel Polish on a similar model 60 and an Anaconda.It took a few hours each with an old t shirt and some elbow grease

You won't regret it. You can gently apply a thin coat, let it dry and gently buff off to a glossy finish. Can be safely used on blued guns in the full knowledge that it won't harm the surface! I've been using it for a number of years and very happy with the results. I also use it on antique guns metal and woodwork alike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ad Unum Omnes

Have used Flitz for about two years to clean up used revolvers and pistols I have purchased since I started "collecting". (Never ceases to amaze me how dirty firearms are at auctions, shows, and sales - good negotiating tool for the buyer if you see the hidden gem underneath.)

Just ordered the Ren Wax on Amazon. Thanks for the pictures. Convinced me to get it.

Pre-Lim and RenWax both available on Amazon

After reading Pre-Lim I'm not sure I'd use it on blued guns ,maybe gently ????
•A mildly abrasive, creamy paste designed for non-scratch cleaning, stain removal and freshening of many surfaces, especially metals and enamels.
•Can be used for china, feathering repairs to ceramics, air-brushed glazed surfaces and creates a fantastic "brushed finish" for metals (i.e. knife blades).
•PRE-LIM produces a brilliant silky, smooth finish.

I use the simi chrome polish lightly on nickel guns to restore them to there orginal shine. I save the used rags to polish up my dull blued guns. Just go lightly.

Thanks arjay. Those guns sure did clean up nicely. That's the result I'm looking for.

As stated in an earlier post I ordered Ren Wax yesterday. Quick question.

Can Ren Wax be used on a vintage WWII 1911a1 with parkerized finish and also on Beretta 92F that has a Bruniton finish?

Thanks.

I've used it on spray on type finishes.Gives the gun a satin sheen.

I would really like someone to shine up two guns, using Ren Wax on one and plain old Johnson's Paste Wax on the other - then see if you can tell the difference. I bet you can't. Wax ia pretty much wax, and JPW is FAR cheaper and you can get it at many supermarkets and hardware stores and also Home Depot and Lowe's. I have been using JPW for well over 35 years, on both wood and metal for all my guns. I will say that Ren Wax does one thing very well - writing effective advertising puffery.

I've always used Butchers Bowling Alley Wax with good results.

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BCCI Life Member #2068

I don't know what it is, or where to get it (a bowling alley perhaps?) but it would probably work fine. As I said, there is very little difference among waxes (there is actually a pretty good explanation of waxes on Wikipedia), and even something like neutral shoe polish would work fine on guns. The component in most wax compositions which provides the glossy "shine" is Carnauba wax, derived from palm leaves. Several have commented on the forum about some auto waxes working well.

I first started using JPW for rust prevention. I had an old Winchester Model 97 pump shotgun which had a very bad tendency to rust quickly. The JPW stopped that, so I have used it ever since on every gun I own. BTW, JPW makes a good bullet lube and also a resizing lubricant.

I really think they all come that way. I thought mine had been abused. Too bad we can't get a dented can discount.

I read this and figured why not? I tried it on my face but, sadly, I remain a wrinkled up old man. Proves it doesn't work on everything.

Some have suggested that I find a pair K Frame Diamond Magnas to put on this gun in place of the old targets. I agree. Magnas always look right while Targets most always look wrong. Probably why my box of grips is cram full of targets while I'm always short of magnas. They are hard to find, but I did find some. Not even Flitz will take out damage done to nickel from wearing targets for 50 plus years, but the gun does look a lot better. The Sambar Stag grips look pretty good too.

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	M10-6 Nickel Pic1.jpg (127.3 KB, 32 views)
	M10-6 Nickel 1963 With Stags.jpg (112.0 KB, 38 views)

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Dr. B

Received my Ren Wax a couple of days ago and have been working through the collection a couple of pieces at a time. Great stuff - does exactly as promised.

I am really impressed how it helps renew the stocks. Don't forget the inside of the stocks where there is little if any finish. There are a couple of good videos on you tube about how to use it.

Thanks for the previous information that motivated me to get some.