I'm hoping you guys can help me out with a problem I had with my model 10 today. First off, I bought the gun used. It was a police trade-in from Buds, I've put probably 200 rounds through it and it's functioned flawlessly until today. 

Today after firing the gun twice, the trigger seemed to lock up. I wasn't able to cock the hammer back either. I also noticed that the cylinder seemed to be a stuck. It actually took some effort to push the cylinder out. I looked the cylinder over and didn't see anything that looked out of place so I closed it and again, the trigger and hammer wouldn't work. I emptied the remaining shells from the cylinder and closed it and the gun seemed to function properly. I loaded it up, cocked the hammer, fired twice and it locked up again. Once again when I emptied the cylinder, the trigger and hammer seemed to function properly. It happened a third time and I put the gun away for the day. 

Any ideas about what is going on here? Everything seems to work fine until I fire the gun a couple of times and then something is causing the cylinder to get stuck. It seems like the cylinder being stuck is whats keeping the gun from functioning as opposed to it being a problem with the trigger or hammer.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

What M10- is it?
Has the ejector rod come loose?

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Only difference Fool/Mule-ears

As said above check the ejector Rod. Some are right hand thread some left. Reload ammo are factory. Primers can back out and cause the problem.

Welcome! Any model 10-2 or a higher number than 2 will tighten the ejector rod by turning counter-clockwise. Best to put empty brass in at least two charge holes before trying to tighten it. Another common problem would be crud under the extractor star, so examine and clean there very carefully. Other problems can cause this but since it worked fine until very recently these are the most likely issues.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

1. Take side plate off and clean internals.
2. Is the cylinder hand under spring pressure ?
3. Check the hammer nose bushing
4. cylinder/forcing cone space normal

^^^^What he said. To which I add, as I always do, take your gun to a gunsmith for a professional opinion and have the 'smith correct it. You'll have peace of mind.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Clean out under the extractor star and it recess.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll take a look at it, make sure everything is tight and give it a thorough cleaning. The ammo was Winchester white box but I'll look at the primers and see if they aren't seated correctly also.

Thanks!

Is the front of the cylinder rubbing on the breechface of the barrel/forcing cone area? If the B/C gap is tight, shooting debris can build up here, causing the malfunction you describe. This may be due to a bit of end shake on the cylinder or yoke.
Clean the front of the cylinder, and check the front B/C gap with a feeler gauge. It should be at least .004" - .006" to accomodate normal fouling.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

1. Check that the ejector rod is screwed in tightly.
2. Clean the piece - especially under the extractor star.
3. Clean the front of the cylinder and check the the barrel/cylinder gap.

I'll add one other item - check all of the screws to make sure they're properly tightened. You should pay special attention to the screw directly above the trigger which secures the cylinder.

Good luck, please let us know what you find after doing these things.

Regards,

Dave

I'd guess that crud (powder debris) under the ejector start is the most likely cause, followed by a loose ejector rod (which is must less common on the models after the direction was changed as I recall). Given that there are no prior problems, I'm guessing that any other causes are much less likely. If cleaning under the ejector start and checking/tightening the ejector rod don't solve the problem, find a good gunsmith and have it checked out properly.

I recall that at least some batches of WWB in some calibers have had ... spotty QC, so you could have more unburned powder or other sorts of ammo related problems.

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NHI, 10-8.

Check your mainspring and the set screw. Make sure it hasn't come loose.

Any possibility it could be bad or out of spec ammo?

If this gun operated "flawlessly" for over 200 rounds, then suddenly froze up is 99% probability of the extractor rod backing out, If not, then crud has gotten under the extractor star. Most of the other maladies don't show up suddenly.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I've got one of those trade-ins, also, waiting to see what the issue is.
Mine's been flawless.

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Fight socialism. Never stop.

I'm betting the ejector rod has come loose. Put the rod in a padded vise, put 3 shell casings in alternate cylinder holes, and turn the cylinder counter-clockwise to make sure it is tight. If that doesn't do it check for crud under the extractor star. I know this is the 6th suggestion to do this but it is the most likely cause. Try it and let us know.

Today after firing the gun twice, the trigger seemed to lock up. I wasn't able to cock the hammer back either. I also noticed that the cylinder seemed to be a stuck.

Any ideas about what is going on here? Everything seems to work fine until I fire the gun a couple of times and then something is causing the cylinder to get stuck. It seems like the cylinder being stuck is whats keeping the gun from functioning as opposed to it being a problem with the trigger or hammer.


Were you firing double action? Ive had that happen when not returning the trigger fully to the front.

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US ARMY
Viet Nam 70-71