I looked at a 17-3 today ( probably a mid 70's gun). It's in great shape. It has the transfer bar firing pin.

Can this gun be dry fired without a problem or should I use snap caps or fired case n it?

Thanks

A century ago Iver Johnsons had transfer bars. Ruger adopted them about 1973. S&Ws do not have them. They have hammer blocks.

When most S&W .22 rimfire revolvers are dry snapped the firing pin hits the back of the cylinder. Use snap caps. Empty cases will do but it is best to change or rotate them often. Yellow dry wall anchors are as good as any .22 LR snap cap sold in guns stores. They are made for #4-6 7/8" screws. They cost about $2 a hundred at Lowes or Home Depot. Additionally they will feed through the magazine of most simi-autos while you work the slide by hand to recock.

Like he said above, you should not dry fire a 22LR revolver unless you have snap caps or empty cases in it or you will peen the chamber damaging it.

Both the posters above who answered you are right on as to how to fire and the lack of a transfer bar. Their advise should be followed. If you do use the yellow drywall anchors do not drop the hammer too many times as they are pretty thin. 3 or 4 times in different spots is about the limit for me.

I think it may depend on the individual gun and the length of the firing pin. I bought my first Model 18 (the same gun with a 4 inch barrel, basically) in 1977 and, never having been told it might be a bad thing, dry-fired it a lot to learn trigger control. When I was advised "Don't do that!" I checked for the telltale dings on the rear face of the cylinder and there were none.

I don't dry-fire any of my rimfires any more. I have seen examples that were damaged.