Earlier this week I picked up a Model 64-1. This is my very first old school S&W. It was an old police gun and has "NHPD" stamped on the butt of the gun. It has some scratches and some pitting on the frame. When I was looking at it, I almost did not buy it due to me being unable to get the cylinder open. The guy and I, then realized the extractor rod was loose and after tightening it up, it performed well. Once I got it home I detail stripped it and cleaned the internals up. I also tightened the extractor rod by putting it in a vice. The internals looked as if it had never cleaned. I can say though, that this gun was well built and built like a tank.


Yesterday, I took it to the range and put 250 rounds through it. Let me tell you, this was the smoothest shooting revolver I've ever shot. There was almost no recoil and it was very accurate, although I did have trouble sometimes with getting a good sight picture with the front sight post but that can be fixed with some paint.


I know this has been covered before but is it ok to shoot +p's through is gun, even if it's not stamped +P?


The gun came with some nasty Patchmayr gripper grips. They work good but I'd like to change them out. I'd like to go with the old school wooden grips for this gun but I've always had pain in my hand after shooting a lot with wooden grips. I plan on using this as my range gun and maybe even CCW in the winter.


Any recommendations as far as grips.

Attached Images

	IMG_0658.jpg (62.0 KB, 143 views)
	IMG_0659.jpg (74.3 KB, 129 views)

Yes. No problem at all.

Unusual on a stainless revolver. Possible, of course, but I wonder what would have caused that. I can't see it in your pics, but my eyes are nearly 70 years old . . .

I'm still shuddering, five minutes after I read that!

__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Blew up the pics. I guess I see it now. Odd. On the frame and not on the barrel. Scratching my head . . .

__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Yeah, I have no idea what its from. Is there anyway I could clean it up? I'm not too worried about it since it's going to be a range gun but I still like my stuff to look good.

Nice revolver. I like the heavy barrel.

I don't think you could shoot enough +P to hurt it unless maybe you shoot all day every day for a decade or so.

The scratches & pits would not bother me, especially if I intended for it to be a holster gun. I have never tried Flitz, but often hear it recommended. The thing is, if you want a collector-grade specimen, you'd be better off to trade this for an upgrade.

Personally, I like "nasty" Pachs. But you could find some '70s era magnas and perhaps a Tyler T-Grip (silver or stainless of course) that will work fine too. I like the looks and feel of targets on a K-Frame, but they add bulk.

__________________
You're shy a few manners.

I forgot to add that a drop of Loctite Blue on the threads should keep the ejector rod from loosening up. Be sure to double check that you get the right Loctite. You don't want the one(s) you have to heat to get things apart.

__________________
You're shy a few manners.

For the rust, I have used 400 - 800 wet-dry sand paper with oil. Use the finest grit that works. Go with the grain. Finish off with some fine white polish (I use Mothers Mag polish). Others have used the Scotch pads which give a nice brushed look. Buy an assortment and go with what works (test on the grip frame or other out of the way area).

what might one from '75 or so that has never been fired be worth?

gsn, I can not say about a 64 that has never been fired, but a good condition 4" seems to go for around $400-$450 around here. A 3" would be worth a little more.

Congratulations on the 64! You ask about grips/stocks. That is a very personal thing. They need to FIT YOU! I have stubby fingers, but have many Smith revolvers with target stocks. Here is my 64-3 with targets. Enjoy your 64! Bob

Attached Images

	001.jpg (120.7 KB, 28 views)
	004.jpg (124.4 KB, 26 views)

Thank you. I'm really enjoying my 64. It's is probably the most enjoyable handgun I've ever shoot. I'd like to go old school and get some magnas but I'm not sure I'd like it so much at the range after 200 rds.


Btw, I like the looks of those grips in your 64. Maybe I might go that route.

Nice find. The gunked up guts is no surprise. So many agencies never detailed their weapons. Thank goodness mine does; autos & wheelies.

The Model 13, is basically the same except a .357 magnum. This is my 13-2. If you notice, it has magna style stocks on it. I shoot it well also. I have more sets of stocks, than guns. Bob

Attached Images

	13-2 001.jpg (176.2 KB, 33 views)
	13-2 003.jpg (180.3 KB, 28 views)

That's a very good looking gun. I really like those grips. Do they give you pain between your thumb and index finger after extended shooting?

Hi GA Sheepdog:

If you are going to work on your extractor rod, it's advisable to place empty shell casings in the cylinder (at least 3 - 1 in alternating charge holes) and use the proper tools. A chuck from a drill or drill press can be used, but here is a tool that I find very effective:

ViseSmith™ - a unique extractor rod tool for - S&W(R), Taurus(R), and Ruger(R) Speed Six Revolvers | Welcome to Gunsmither™ Tools | Myself

By the way, I also like this manufacturer's recoil slide spring tool:

SmithMaster™ - trigger spring tool for S&W(R) Revolvers. | Welcome to Gunsmither™ Tools | Myself

I agree wood grips look nicer, but rubber grips are more comfortable and practical for me. I prefer the Pachmayr Compac Professional grips:

Pachmayr&reg Pachmayr your primary source for quality handgun grips and recoil pads

Good luck,

Dave

To be honest, I have not fired the 13 that much. It came to me with reported less than a box of .38's fired through it. I probably only put 2 boxes through it since. No pain issues though. Another comfy grip, is Herrett. I have a well worn set on my 586. The size is in between magna and target to me. Bob