My newest M-27 has a narrow trigger. I am attending a local swap meet today where a fellow has a table full of S&W parts. This show is always loaded w/S&W guns & etc.. If I can get a wide trigger for this M-27, I will kinda need to see the tutorial that was posted somewhere on this site regarding installation techniques.

On of the contributors used common household "tools". Each contributor had his own preferred method/tool for the job. Since I will not be doing this very often, only once before, I would like to review that thread....

Anyone know of it??? Link???

PJH

A trigger shoe might be a good option. It would eliminate removing the sideplate and leave the gun totally original if removed.

If you own a set of, 'gunsmithing screwdrivers' then removing the side-plate is simple. First, I match the correct screwdriver bit to each screw; and, then, I remove the screws.

After removing the screws it helps to have a second long shank screwdriver to use as a mini pry bar. Insert the shaft of the second (one piece) screwdriver into the back of the frame - just above the grip - pry upwards on the shaft; and, voilà, the side plate will lift up and out of the frame. Afterwards, the side plate can be reinstalled by: (1) lining everything up, and (2) using a mallet with either a hard rubber or a plastic head to tap it back in place.

On my own Model 27 it's important to remember the exact way in which the trigger return's slide spring, 'stop' (that little rod in the center of the return spring) is facing; and, as long as you're satisfied with the trigger pull, put it back into the gun in exactly the same direction it was in when you removed it. (The rounded end will be facing either towards the muzzle, or away from it.)

YTo "heckinohio"........I'm not sure about the location of the tutorial you mention, but there are many discussions here on the forum about the modification or "upgrade" you describe. Keep in mind, this is not a "drop-in" part, and will likely need fitting.

Ref the other post, this is absolutely the worst possible method to use in removing the sideplate. You should never pry on the plate, but after the screws are removed, lightly tap on the grip frame with a plastic mallet or screwdriver handle to loosen the plate, and lift it out by hand. Using a "prybar" will most certainly damage the sideplate and the grip frame.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Many fine guns have been marred by this amateurish method
As stated just rap the grip frame with the screwdriver handle

This is a joke, isn't it?

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Georgia On My Mind

Ah come on, guys! Let's get, 'real'.

I'm willing to admit when I'm wrong; but, I was trained by two prominent gunsmiths; and, unless there was some other sort of problem: (1) That's how they always did it; and (2) I've been removing S&W revolver side plates for more than 40 years, now; and this is exactly how I've done it every time.

OTHER THAN NORMAL WEAR, THERE IS NOT ONE SINGLE MARK ON THE INSIDE OF ANY OF MY S&W REVOLVERS!

If someone else, somehow, manages to, 'butcher' his revolver while using this method, well ....... that's someone else's business. I know how to work on guns; and, as far as I'm concerned this is just another dumb internet gun forum argument like, 'Which is better? A 9mm or a 45 ACP?' Or, 'Is it a clip, or is it a magazine?'

No matter how I look at the above comments, it's all nonsense to me; and I've worked on plenty of S&W revolvers that you could, 'tap on' all day long and not get the side plate to loosen. Like I said: I'm willing to admit when I'm wrong - I really am, honest - but this isn't one of those times!*



* Unless, of course, someone is a, 'gun schmuck' and/or can, no more, be trusted with a screwdriver than he can be trusted with a Dremel Tool. There ARE people like that out there!

Just because so and so does it doesn't mean it's right...

How would you know that tapping on them wouldn't loosen the side plate???

If it can be " tapped on " by a rubber or plastic hammer it can be tapped off

By all means work on your guns however you see fit, I am sure with the right amount of care you can pry a side plate off with no damage...but if you are gonna offer advice offer proper advice

Trigger shoes have lost their popularity because they usually DO leave marks on the trigger that are visible when the shoe is removed and sometime they can shift in place while shooting.

Fitting the preferred trigger is always a better option.

I usually hang on to the triggers, hammers and such that I remove to replace with something else and usually label the package they go into so I will know where they came from if I ever decide to replace them.

You would want to get a new old stock trigger so that you can fit the sear yourself. A used one very possibly won't work.

Also, fitting a trigger and cutting the sear isn't something for the novice. You really need to have an understanding of the gun to do it. I would recommend the Jerry K. shop manual for S&Ws.

As far as cutting the sear, I have a DIY fixture that can be used and have cut numerous sears on it already. S&Ws and Colts. I have numerous gunsmithing 'stickies' on the Colt forum and also have a thread there about my DIY sear cutting fixture. If you want a link to it, PM me.

Now you're being childish. If you don't want to listen fine - It ain't my gun; and I truly don't care. As I've already mentioned: I've, also, got more than 40 years of outstanding pistolsmithing experience that say you're way isn't the only way; and might not even be the right way to get things quickly and properly done.

Amateur gunsmithing advice is always floating around on the internet; but, at least, I had the courtesy not to say that your way doesn't work; and my way is the only way.

(In fact I said both methods can be useful - Guess you missed that, huh!)

You, on the other hand, are handing out advice that is as inflexible as it is intolerant of anyone else's point-of-view. You're not right; you're wrong; and, your way is NOT the only way - Especially when you're working, 'on the clock' and with the customer's money. Sadly, however, you just don't see it.

I've worked on numerous older Smiths with very tight or, 'sealed' side plates that wouldn't come off with simple tapping unless you did something extraordinary like soak the frame in a Kroil mixture all night long. So, I don't think you're mistaken; I know you are!

I'm now done with this.

If you have had experience, training or just a tinkerer, do it. But if you care about the gun and are an amateur, I suggest buying a part, and sending the gun to a competent gunsmith or to the Performance Center and having the new trigger installed and an action job performed. It will guarantee the gun remains intact, and there will be some kind of warranty. Do not be "Penny wise and Dollar (pound) foolish"..Ben Franklin.
Terry

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Terry
SWCA, SWHS, IWLA, NRA

“Your assumptions are your windows on the world. Scrub them off every once in a while, or the light won't come in.”
― Isaac Asimov

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

You were done with this at your first post , sadly you just don't see it

There is another post recently where the "Factory Gunsmiths" at a public setting use the "Slam it down" on the bench-top method to remove the side plate. I cringe at the thought. Many years ago when I got the Kunhausen manual and began working on my guns I read to tap the grip frame with a wooden hammer handle and the side plate will pop up. It does, and I have removed hundreds the same way and never injured any of them that way.

By the way, if you plan to only shoot the gun in single action the .500" target trigger is fine, but if you will do any double action shooting you will curse it. Keep that in mind when you go to change any triggers.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Gents.......a bit sorry to see a back & forth controversy rise from one of my threads.....

While I have much "repair/replace" experience over the past 50 years, it is primarily on light to heavy machine guns, nothing in the more sophisticated arena. I have never owned any '61-'80 Smiths until the past 5 years. I have done one trigger replacement, a learn as you go experience, have two in the wings. That is why I asked for a link to the tutorial......or the thread the comments appeared in, I have no idea how to find such things. One poster had a really simple common tools process. Others recommended a professionally made tool/jig to simplify the process.

By the way, local show was a fizzle, was a last minit deal, no advertising....bought a case of surplus .45 ACP, looked at a super nice Colt pocket, M-1903??? I may go back after that one.......

PJH

Direct quote from Kuhnhausen S&W Manual, 1990 copyright, page 11, under heading Remove Sideplate:. "As simple as removing a sideplate is, it might seem that you would find very few that were flared or damaged. But not so. Nonprofessionals manage to do this about half the time. So this warning: Don't pry it off!"

Under an illustration on the same page, showing the proper tool and the proper area to achieve removal of side plates by "sharply rapping" with a wooden hammer handle, is the admonition, in bold print, Attempts to pry them loose will flare the edges and can also bend the sideplate."

Good enough for me.

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Georgia On My Mind

I have 4 s&w revolvers, and have had the side plate off of 3 of them. I have a precision set of bits, one of which fits the screws very well. After removing the screws, I use the plastic handle of a larger screwdriver to tap on the frame, below the plate. They usually pop right off. On 1 of the revolvers I have not been able to break the screw that is under the grip loose. Even soaking in penetrating oil has not worked so far.