First time getting a Smith! I knew I wanted a pre-lock, didn't have a particular model in mind but when I saw this 19-3 I knew I had to have it. Nickel-plated, stainless, gorgeous. Tight lockup, my dad gave me his approval after examining it. Serial number is 9K76607. I think it's 1967? Hopefully someone here can pinpoint the date for me. It's really gorgeous.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on getting a nice one.
Looking at the SCSW it should be from 1976.

Congrats, 19-3s are fabulous! Nickel plating and SS are a no go. It would be blued or nickeled carbon steel. Stainless would be a Mod 66 not 19. My 19-3 was bought new in 1975 which makes me think 1967 would be in correct for yours.

9K76xxx would be from 1977. The 9K numbers for that year were 9K14001 to 9K83999. The earlier 9K numbers were from 1976 and those above 84000 were from 1978.

As noshow wrote, the Model 19 was always a carbon steel gun, not stainless. It could have a blue or nickel finish over the carbon steel. The Combat Magnum made of stainless was the Model 66.

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

My bad, so it's actually just nickel plated over the carbon steel. Still a really beautiful finish. The serial number is 9k76607. The guy who sold it said it was 1967. Ah well, regardless if 1967 or 76 I love it!

There's no such thing as a truly all around gun, but if there was, that one will be close. I traded a Ruger Redhawk for my nickel 19-4. What a perfect gun. Or close, anyway.

Here's a slightly better pic of mine. I think I'm in love.

All around gun, Mod-19 4". Do everyday work. Hands down. The best.

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

Yea. I know you need to clean nickel plated guns every time after you shoot them. Do these handle magnum loads ok? I believe you want to use something like striker hold and frog lube and not Hoppes because hoppes is abrasive.

enjoy that fine revolver. I have 2 mdl 19's, a 2 1/2" and a 4" love the things

I see a HOOK with a model 66,10,14,15,13,65 etc hanging as bait!!! Welcome to the HOOKED CLUB!!! There is no known cure. When you get one of each, you will start doubling up!!!! Just grin and bear it. Again welcome to the forum from Arkansas!

I have heard bad things about frog lube when it gets in the workings supposedly it can gum them up. I don't know this first hand, just from what I have heard on the various forums.

I use Ballistol to clean my guns and it works well.

Also, you can use Mothers Mag Wheel polish to really put a shine on your nickel gun once you have cleaned it, and then out a coat of Renaissance wax over it.

This is a model 27-2 that I had that was also nickel and I would polish it and wax it.

It was a beautiful gun.

I suspect what led to the mistake is that the Model 19-3 was introduced in 1967. They were made for a decade after that.

Here is one in my collection. It is also from 1977 (9K serial number just a few thousand lower than yours). In the picture, it wears Magna stocks instead of the Target style it came with (as you have on yours). I like this gun a lot. I'm sure you will enjoy the one you have!

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Thanks I definitely think I'm in love with this baby. So Ballistol is safe to use on the nickel? I like Ballistol because it's no fuss no frills just want to be sure I use the correct type of cleaner on her. I'm of the school that one doesn't want to over lube or over oil a fine revolver, just clean it, do a light wax, and wipe with a micro cloth.

Question about the warranty, I bought used obviously, does the warranty still hold? How does that work, this is my first used firearm purchase.

I plan on mostly shooting .38 spl or .38+p out of her, because I hear those are easier than steady rounds of .357 on the 19? Also, when I do want to shoot some .357, should I go with 158 grain? Or 125? A buddy told me the heavier grain is easier on the gun than the lighter .357

Yes Ballistol works really well, Hoppes is supposed to be fine, even in Nickel. I just like Ballistol.

You can also get Lead Away cloth. But ONLY use it or Nickel or Stainless, not a blues finish.

The Lead Away cloth is excellent for cleaning the front of the cylinder and getting rid of those burn marks.

Enjoy that gun.

As far as cleaning I think the word from the wise is don't use anything that has ammonia in it. At least that's what I've read.
On the ammo, there have been reports that the lighter grain bullets will erode and possibly crack the forcing cone of the K frame magnums. This relates to magnum ammo only as far as I know, 38s are fine.

You could not have picked a better first Smith. Enjoy.

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Robert
SWCA #2906, SWHF #760

That's a beauty! Nice score. The 19-3 was my first gun as a new deputy sheriff in 1971 and it was just the right size and served me well until we had to transition to autos. Don't make the mistake I made and get rid of your 19-3...I regret it to this day. Welcome to the forums from California.

I've got a 66 that is the stainless cousin to your 19. As much as I like stainless, I feel like nickel ALWAYS pretty's up way better. I've polished out some stainless guns, but they just still dont come close to the luster of nickel plating.

Beautiful piece you have there. Make sure you dont use any of those lead removing cloths to clean it.

This man speaks the truth!

I picked up the aforementioned 66, and was introduced to the perfection that is the K-frame combat magnum. I recently picked up a 65 3" round butt, and my eyes light up every time i see a k frame posted for sale, or in a shop. some day i'll have the money to get them all lol

Thanks everyone! I agree, nickel finish is a soft, shiny, beautiful finish, definitely distinct from stainless. I always knew I'd love Smiths especially when I finally owned one, but I love her so much that I definitely think I'm hooked. I have a Charter Arms Bulldog, which is a great gun, and love shooting it, but I like my Model 19 Smith so much that I am now thinking I will trade my bulldog for another Smith! Still a little unsure what cleaner to use, also, what about the wood? Should I put anything on that to enhance it? This is going to be a shooter but also a shelf gun. So I want to make sure I use the right product on her. I'm hearing conflicting suggestions but to keep it simple what is the best cleaner/polish I can go buy at Walmart or somewhere to use? I plan to clean her up as soon as possible, then put a few .38 in her for test drive. As of now I want to use the softest, easiest on finish cleaner I can find that will polish her up and clean her while preserving the finish and safeguarding the wood grip. I know I definitely won't use Hoppes or anything solvent or abrasive. And as far as rag, I'll just use like a regular plain soft microfiber rag.

Also, still wondering how the warranty works? Since I bought the gun used, does Smith's original warranty still apply? This is my first used firearm purchase so not sure how that works.

S&W's warranty was for a year when your gun was made, protecting against failures of workmanship or materials, so your gun is long past that.

The current lifetime service policy began for guns made in in the late 1980's, I believe, and applies to original owners although they often fix guns now owned by subsequent owners if they were made in the current warranty age.

I've found for wooden stocks on both hand guns and long guns the best polish and preservative is the like that come from my hand ;-)

Congrats,that an awesome looking S&W 19-3 revolver,you have there justakyguy .

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Life is short,live it fully.

Thanks guys! I called S&W today to get some more info on it, he said it was definitely from 1976. He called it a "Combat Magnum" or something to that effect, so I guess that was the original description of the 19-3 of that year or something. I asked him about cleaning,he said anything without ammonia is fine. He said Hoppes Elite or Ballistol would be ok. I'll probably go with Ballistol. I also asked the guy about ammo, he said mainly just avoid going crazy with hot magnum loads, something I wouldn't do anyway. Probably won't shoot many magnums but if I do, it will probably be factory 158 gr or something not hot. He also said to avoid +p, not sure if he meant just overly hot magnums, or if he meant .38+p, because even .38+p are not as hot as low-power magnums..but at any rate, I'll probably stick to .38 mostly.
Going to try and track down some Ballistol and give her a good cleaning this weekend and take her to the range soon!

We don't know who you talked to, but I would bet even money that if you lettered it, the letter would date the shipment to 1977.

All Model 19 revolvers, regardless of dash number, were called the Combat Magnum. The name goes back to the time before model numbers. It was introduced in 1955 as the Combat Magnum. When it started wearing a model number in 1958, it was called the Model 19 Combat Magnum.

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

I spray my nickle guns down with WD40, let them soak for an hour or so, then clean it with Hoppes, then flush the gun with lighter fluid, wipe it dry and apply Rem Oil or any good quality gun oil rub it on with a clean cloth and put it in the gun safe, never had an issue with the nickle finish. I have a Model 57 nickle that a bought with a "dull" finish Semicrome polish cleaned it up nicely, then the WD40/flush with lighter fluid and Rem Oil, shines like a new dime now. Enjoy the 19, I have a 4"blue one that's sweet to shoot with 158 grain JSP or cast SWC's. Use it as a cold weather concealed carry piece.

I just called and they transferred me to some guy I guess in the used section or revolver person. I gave him the serial number and he said 1976. The guy at Bud's told me 1967 but I know that's not right. But could be 1977 I guess. I guess it's one of those two. When I bought it from Bud's, I had no clue about the model or anything, I just knew I had to have it. I've learned so much!

Nice K frame nickel 19-3 !
A few brief notes:
The Model 19 was first called "The Combat Magnum" because prior to the introduction of S&W model numbers all S&W handguns had "Names" ,

There is a little confusion of the Model 19-3 introduction around 1968 because of a slight overlap in the Model 19-2 and Model 19-3 revision (Basically relocated the fwd screw of the rear site slightly away from the blast area above the forcing cone)... otherwise the 19-2 nd the 19-3 are mechanically same gun....(revision changes denote a part change)

Your 19-3 is fine with "ANY" .38 special ammo including +p and +P+ which are less powerful than .357 Magnum,

The K frame Magnum was developed with the then standard 158 grain .357 Magnum load, years later in an attempt to push the performance envelope lighter loads were offered such as the 110 grain and 115 grain .357 Magnum loads, those lighter loads accelerated faster and made the "Jump" from the cylinder to the barrel milliseconds sooner, apparently since that "Jump" happened as the super hot gasses were still burning cracked forcing cones began to serendipitously appear in Model 19's at the 6 "O" clock position where it is thinnest.

If you stick to a diet of any .38 special for punching holes in paper with the occasional use of 158 grain Magnums your "K" Magnum should run fine for your lifetime.

Thanks for all the comments guys! Question I should have asked earlier but didn't? How often do you recommend cleaning it? Obviously I'd clean it after I shot it, but how often should I give it a clean. And should I just leave the grip alone, or remove it to clean under? My inclination for now is to just leave it alone and clean the rest. Thanks again!

The Model 19 was my first real handgun love. I was a teen-ager, working downtown in the big city, which for a country boy, fresh off the farm, was a real adventure. I walked into a drug store on Broad Street, and saw a magazine rack. On the rack I saw the first copy of "Guns and Ammo" magazine I'd ever seen. WOW...a magazine about nothing but guns...Who knew? (I really didn't.)

Anyway on the cover of that magazine was the picture of a revolver, done as only G&A could do, with the words..."SMITH & WESSON MODEL 19 COMBAT MAGNUM" in bold print. I thought "Man, that is what a handgun is supposed to look like." In all my years since, I haven't seen anything to change my opinion.

I said in another thread, that I go back and forth between the Model 15 and the Model 19 as to which I like best. Since this is about the 19, I like that one best now. I've owned several over the years, including a 19-4, in nickel. These days, I just have the one, a 19-4, in blue.



How often to clean it? Well, when you shoot it of course, but I don't go out of my way otherwise. I'll wipe mine off with a rag if it gets fingerprints, or something like that on it. I don't ever take the sideplate off. I do remove the grips so I can clean under them. I'll spray the internals with gunscrubber or something like that every so often, then put a couple of drops of oil here and there.

I shoot 38 Special ammo in mine about 99.999% of the time. Paper targets don't take much killing.

Welcome to the forum. Pull up a chair, set on the floor. Coffee will be ready soon.

And enjoy your 19. I know you will.

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John 3:16 .

I'm partial to the 6" barrel. Here is my 19-3 with a birthday sometime in 1974.

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I type. Therefore I am.

I believe your gun is probably from around Nov 1977.

Welcome to the FORUM! Good looking 19 you have there! I am 63, and yet to have owned a nickel gun. The proper opportunity has not come along. They are capable of having a stunning shine! Enjoy yours! Bob

Sprayed her down with some Ballistol the other day, cleaned out the bore and cylinder holes some. Shines really good, the Ballistol seemed to work well. Still a few blemishes on the nickel, hopefully some wax can get rid of those. The front of the cylinder face is black too I noticed. Guess just carbon buildup. I ordered some Renaissance wax after hearing great things about it. Hopefully it will bring the shiny finish out and protect it. Might try some CLP Break Free next cleaning, to see if it differs any from Ballistol, and finish it off with some Renaissance.

Thanks for the clarification on the date, I definitely think it's from 1976-77.

Got some CLP Break Free, did a bit more spot cleaning, and then got some Renaissance Wax, and rubbed some of that in with an old cotton t-shirt. Still a few blemishes here & there, & a couple spots on the cylinder, but all in all I think she looks nice!

Man that is beautiful!! I'm going to be on the lookout for a nice blued one too. Saw a couple in Bud's the other day, one was a 3 inch .38, not sure the model, the other was a 19 from the 50s or 60s but was insanely expensive. Blued Smiths are a thing of beauty.

I have my 19-3 6". I also have my 66-2 4" and my 66-2 3". Unfortunately, I have yet to take photos of the 66's.

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Dave Frost

A thing of beauty! Until I got mine, I never really knew all the different model numbers & calibers. Learning a lot! I'm also learning that once you have a nice Smith, your other guns seem paltry lol. And you just want to ditch them all for more smiths.

I picked this up in a three way trade about a year ago. When all was said and done I ended up with this Model 19-3 from early 1974...serial number 7K175 with a six inch barrel and original box with only $200 invested. Ballistol works great and I use a very light coating with Kroil...very light. Welcome to the forum and enjoy your 19-3. Rich

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GOD BLESS THE USA

Thanks! That's a gorgeous one you have, what a steal! I like Ballistol it seems to work well, also Hoppes Elite has worked well. I've used those, and them just a small dab of Rem Oil and then a coat of Renaissance wax and silicone rag to finish. I'm acquiring an even more beautiful blued one in a few days, which has it's original box and papers from 1976. Will be my first blued gun so these tips help!

It can handle hot loads, but in 158g + bullet weights. The 125g flame throwers are to be avoided for multiple reasons.

I personally load my own cast bullets of 160 and 175g to just under maximum, this after working up the loads of course. They are used in a 13-3, 13-4, 65-5, 19-4, 586-1, 27-2 and 627-0, the last three being L and N frames.

Go for it and enjoy your new roscoe.

I agree. I stay away from 125 gr. or less in .357 magnum in my k-frames. I prefer 135 to 158 gr. in both lead and jacketed rounds. I've also loaded some 180gr. rounds for use in the mountains.

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Dave Frost

Noticed this curved crease/opening on the right inside of the frame when I had the hammer cocked today, but after looking into it, I think this is just the normal crease where the right frame joins together, am I right? Sorry for such a newbie question, but just wanted to make sure.

When I shoot her I'll probably stick to just .38's, maybe the occasional 158 mag.

Took the grips off today for inspection and slight cleaning of the frame down there, in good condition! Gave it a quick wipe down put the grips back on. Can't wait to shoot her. Lockup is really good, I do notice a slight front to back movement on the cylinder/ejector rod when it is open, but when the cylinder is locked, tight as can be! Is it normal for slight play in the cylinder/ejector rod when it is open?

Yes, that line / crease is the edge of the side plate that covers internal parts of the action. It is not recommended that you remove it unless you know how to do it properly. It's possible to damage the fit of the edges of the plate while removing it.

Yes the front to back movement is normal.

Nice Model 19. I recently got a blued 19-3 4". Love it.

Oh nice camera. I had to get out my 10x loupe to see the edge that close.

Thanks, just making sure! Looked into it and realized it was just where the side plate meets. Yea the cylinder locks up good when closed. Got a blued one in layaway myself. Can't wait to get it out.

Congrats on your purchase! Looks like a sweet one. Now you need a 6"!

Thanks! 4" is the perfect size for me but if I see a good 6" I won't pass it up!