I was dubious as to the value of purchasing the $20 jar of Renaissance Wax, but after a coat on my almost-new 1971 Model 37 Airweight, I am impressed. This product is a good buy! It made the tiny schreaches from hoster wear and handling almost disappear!

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S&W Mod 37 Airweight, 937.jpg (90.9 KB, 213 views)

Not to put down the Renaissance wax, but for just a few $ in my opinion Johnson"s paste wax works just as well. Also, for wooden grips, KIWI brown shoe polish will shine like anything.

You're preachin' to the choir acman424! But that's ok 'cause the choir needs reminding from time to time. Ren Wax really is a great product. I've been using for about 3 years now and the post wax look on my guns really is great. However, I'm a user for the claimed protection down to the molecular level of the metal. And to me that means rust prevention or inhibition. And so far, I'm convinced it is doing its job. And for $20, that's a bargain.

Now back to looks. I like the gloss and shine of Johnson's Paste Wax better than Ren Wax when used on my wood stocks. My local Lowes store usually has it.

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I'm gonna grow fins.

I bought some of that stuff a while back, and finally used it recently. It was on a stainless gun, however, and I wasn't impressed with the results - visually, anyway. I don't think that's it's optimal use, though.

I'll try it on some blued guns, and I just got a pretty nice model 12, so I look forward to using it on that, given the good report on the model 37.

Renaissance Wax has a neutral PH and is an excellent wax. Johnson's floor wax also does an excellent job and is cheaper. I'm not sure if Johnsons Floor wax has a neutral PH if that matters.

Have about 50% of my Winchesters and most of my S&W's Ren-waxed. It's a tedious job for someone with arthritis in his hands and fingers, but it works and smells great. Recently, waxed a new to me, Winchester M1886, and it really made the case colors stand out. I love the stuff. Big Larry

Ren Wax is more than just a "gun" wax. You can use it on just about anything. Museums use it on priceless oil paintings and other works of art. Your $20 purchase will last you a long time.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

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NRA Benefactor Member

"Renaissance Wax has a neutral PH and is an excellent wax"

Actually, waxes have no pH at all as they are not soluble in water. The concept of pH does not apply to wax molecules. Many people confuse the term "Acid Number" with acidity, and all waxes have an acid number which is a measure of the number of carboxylic acid groups on the hydrocarbon chain. An example of chemical terminology not understood by many who are not chemists being used to mislead the public.

Johnson's paste wax works as well as Renaissance wax on guns (or anything else), and for far less money.

Im not a Mothers polish or wax kind of guy. Just a cotton T-shirt and some oil does it for me. Of course a 63 Split Window with original paint has to be waxed and protected from the elements. My Lord, its a gun, it sits in a dark safe the majority of it time. When I had my 63, I drove the poop out of it. Tough to break. Best, Mike

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

I also just got some Ren wax and I am sold on it. It brings out a clean deep blued luster and if applied lightly it doesn't leave finger smudges either. The key is only use a film of it on your finger tip to smear on the surface. It buffs off very easy then rather than using to much and being harder to buff off.
The 200ml can for $20 will last for years at this film usage of it. Most of all it really brings out the bluing to looking like new on my 30 year old revolvers. Stainless even looks like new.
I have never used Johnsons so I can't compare but I did send some Ren wax to a friend to compare to Johnsons he uses.

Yeah, on a stainless steel Smith, I have to agree a little; but, I still use it on those guns anyway. SS guns are kind of "blah" looking by nature, but the wax still offers a great measure of protection and does improve the appearance somewhat. Just set a blue or nickel gun next to a SS one, and there's really no comparison; but, you have to remember, a stainless gun can double duty as a boat anchor.

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Dr. B

The products made available by Century Solutions have provided the best long term protection for my firearms that stays behind the seat mostly forgotten in my pickup year around, nothing else even comes close. All you have to do is read the instructions and follow them. Longest test has been on a Ruger 357 single six cleaned it up and through frost, dew, rain, snow, heat cold and the revolver remains completely rust free. 7 years now.

I bought a can of Ren Wax a few months ago. I don't know if it's any better than anything else or not, I've never had a problem with using a silicone rag, but people here seemed to think a lot of the stuff, so I figured I'd try it. It does seem to do a good job and keeps the fingerprints at bay. I don't have any museum quality guns but it seems to help my clunkers.

1948 K-22 before.



Same gun after...I know the light is different, but the gun looks and feels better. It had fine rust all over it and felt "dry" and "rough." A couple of rounds with Flitz, and a couple of buffings with Ren Wax, and it's as smooth as a baby's butt.

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John 3:16 .

Whats wrong with some adoring fingerprints? Just wipe it off with a rag and oil. If you are at a show and selling and the guy hands it back, just wipe it off. What, you have a box of white gloves on the table? Lets get real here.
Best

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

Reason to use the wax is the protection in storage from corrosion. Looks and protection from handling are really secondary benefits.

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Straight shootin'
SWCA#2439

OH Dusty that is baloney. Respectfully. You can not stick them away and
forget them. What fun is that? Bring them out and shoot them. Best Mike

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

I have many guns and don't take chances with any of them. I use the wax and always wear white gloves when I handle them. As for gun shows, a silicone rag works best. Mostly, I do exhibits at gun shows, and I have a hands off policy. Big Larry

OK. Whatever. I don't see where I wrote that.

I have a nice collection. A lot if it is old. I don't like my wood or hard rubber grips / stocks to be slathered down in oil or grease. I live in the mid south (very humid 3/4's of the year.) Wax is great to protect from rust without messing up my stocks / grips.

FYI - you can shoot guns that have been waxed, and they clean up real easy afterwards.

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Straight shootin'
SWCA#2439

You're right, but Rugers make better anchors because they bigger and clunkier.

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Dick Burg

I could not agree more. I hate Rugers.

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Dr. B

The price in not important if you live up north. When the temp hits -10 to -20 I get the Ren wax out and still enjoy my Smith and Wesson's.

I also now use Ren Wax on my S&W's. There's a reason many of the world's top museums use it for their collections, including the National Firearm Museum.

Ren wax for me too! You just have to let it dry completely before wiping it off. A dry rag, not an oily one removes the fingerprints.

I also remember reading at some point that it may be a good idea to apply Ren Wax to the frame underneath the grips - wood or rubber - and leave it there without wiping off. Acts as good moisture protection for this area, particularly for blued guns.

I got some Ren Wax based on all your guys' recommendations for my used Model 19 nickel-plated. Her finish was pretty good and had some sheen, she had some wear, the barrel shows some wearing in flashlight still, but basically the ren-wax shined her up really good and helped cover the blemishes. There's still some marks here and there, but I don't care. I haven't used Flitz yet, just my cleaner and the wax on top of that. I plan on shooting mine some so she won't be just a safe queen, but I'm pretty ocd about most things so I'm one of those that has to clean/shine after each shooting lol. So far the wax really makes her look pretty! Not quite new, but close!

I just did the same on my beater 686 2.5 inch (I had a jar of Ren Wax I had not tried). Amazed at how well it worked on a stainless revolver.

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Possum—The other white meat!