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Old 01-07-2017, 06:40 PM
Memphis666 Memphis666 is offline
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Good day folks , hoping im posting in the right area
Picked up another smith today, model 10-6 , 4 in barrel serial# D264xxx . I was told D is 1968? Anyway im not sure what the part is called im calling
A wheel axle is all bugered up and I wanna replace it can anyone tell me the proper name? (See pic) its the rod that pushes the shells out

Thank you
MEMPHIS
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Old 01-07-2017, 06:56 PM
Black Knight Black Knight is offline
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I believe you are referring to the ejector rod. If you push the rod in and the star ratchet comes out the back of the cylinder it is the ejector rod. The "wheel" where the cartridges (ammo) goes is called the cylinder. As for how to replace it I would take it to a competent gunsmith and pay the money to have it done correctly. Yes there are those here who can talk you through it but I have heard it takes a special tool to keep from ruining the cylinder internals. I have also heard they use a reverse thread. Since I have no experience replacing the ejector rod I can not say from experience. Good luck with you project. BTW don't feel bad about not knowing the names of certain parts, after my many years handling guns there are still some gun parts that I am not familiar with.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:10 PM
Memphis666 Memphis666 is offline
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That would be the part i am talking about, I already had it apart and put it back together, im pretty good at taking them apart and putting them together again, im new to revolvers, being only 43 , I always been a sr
Semi auto kinda guy, so this all new learning to me ,
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:17 PM
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First, D264000 would probably have shipped in 1970.

The part you are referring to is the extractor rod, as it was called by S&W. It is commonly referred to as the "ejector" rod, which is certainly accurate as well.

By the time this gun was made, the extractor rod had left hand threads. Before about 1961, right hand threads were used on this model.

Edit: Be very careful when tightening this part. The treads are relatively fragile and over-tightening can easily result in stripped threads.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:19 PM
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What is the ejector rod not doing that it needs to be replaced? Is this an aesthetic issue?

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Originally Posted by Memphis666 View Post
That would be the part i am talking about, I already had it apart and put it back together, im pretty good at taking them apart and putting them together again, im new to revolvers, being only 43 , I always been a sr
Semi auto kinda guy, so this all new learning to me ,
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:37 PM
Memphis666 Memphis666 is offline
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What is the ejector rod not doing that it needs to be replaced? Is this an aesthetic issue?
somewhere in its life cycle some one used vicegrips or pliers on the tip so it's purely cosmetic the gun works as it should,
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:48 PM
Frank121 Frank121 is online now
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That is common with so many that I see and have owned that I began to think that was a new manufacturing design!


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somewhere in its life cycle some one used vicegrips or pliers on the tip so it's purely cosmetic the gun works as it should,
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:55 PM
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Just call it character and keep shooting and cleaning it.
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Old 01-07-2017, 09:15 PM
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Unless the gun is otherwise near perfect I wouldn't even bother replacing it if it was me. If it is just a shooter I'd live with it.

The reason it is buggered up is that some bubba who thought he was a gunsmith didn't even have enough basic knowledge to know that the threads are left hand (RIGHTY loosey, LEFTY tighty).

Naturally, thinking he knew what he was doing, he didn't bother to ask anybody. He just grabbed it with his trusty pliers and proceeded to strip the knurling off the end as he tightened the snot out of it - instead of loosening it.

I bought an otherwise 95% model 65-5 (pictured in my avatar) that had the same problem. It was worth replacing to bring the whole gun up to 95%. Had it been in any less than a 90% perfect condition I wouldn't even have bothered.
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