M53 info.

[bdblk12v]

Hello all. I am looking for some info on the model 53. I have been searching for one for a few years and finally found one at a good price. I found a 6in blue 53 no dash serial k439xxx. I believe it's a first year gun 1961. I've never shot one and have some ppu ammo supposed to be delivered tomorrow and if work isn't too much I want to shoot it. My question is what can I use to clean all the oil from the cyl holes? Will Berryman b12 be ok do I spray it direct or should I put it on a patch and run it through? Any suggestions on other chemicals that won't hurt the bluing? I also hear they are loud so I have the earplugs and muffs ready. Thanks for the help.

[steelslaver]

after a regular cleaning some alcohol on a patch will do it.

[MrG5122]

I carry rubbing alcohol and Qtips to the range when the 53 needs shooting.

[Big Cholla]

Steelslaver has it right. BUT, if the cylinder yoke shaft has been over oiled the powerful blowback from the first six shots could very well blow that oil into the chambers. The next series of shot cartridges could then be blown back into the recoil shield and lock up the cylinder to some extent. So, take the cylinder out of the frame and remove the cylinder from the yoke. Clean every nook and cranny that you can with that alcohol. .... Sounds far fetched? It happened to me with a used new to me M 53.

It also wouldn't hurt to wipe every one of those factory loads down with alcohol. This is a must with your reloads. ..........

I am shooting that very same factory ammo in a 22 Jet custom job with a 4" barrel. I find that the PPU ammo is not loaded to the very high pressures of the original Remington ammo. This a good thing. ......

[mmande]

I have one #K440XXX. Roy said it was shipped June of 1961. The book says they were introduced to the public in April, 1961. So, yes, yours is a first year production.
Mike

[dave1918a2]

Just be sure not to use the 70% de-natured alcohol as it contains lanolin. I clean the chambers and wipe down all the ammo before going to the range and have never had a problem since I got My first Jet around 1975. Enjoy Yours they are fun.

[bdblk12v]

Originally Posted by dave1918a2

Just be sure not to use the 70% de-natured alcohol as it contains lanolin. I clean the chambers and wipe down all the ammo before going to the range and have never had a problem since I got My first Jet around 1975. Enjoy Yours they are fun.

Oops well I went and shot it. I was in a hurry and used 70% i went to the range before seeing your post. I loaded 3 in and I had a light strike on the first one in single action. Opened cyl and saw light strike. Closed it and proceeded shot it and the next two great. I asked my wife if she wanted to shoot it. She did I put 2 in and it fired the first fine but second not, not only single but double action also. Should I check the strain screw, and how do I adjust? Thanks

[smithrjd]

I use gun scrubber to clean the cylinders and ammo. (you need to do both, especially reloads) The strain screw should be turned down tight, not gorilla tight but snug. Usually light strikes are caused by to light of a main spring, normally only shows up in double action. If you are getting light strikes in single action something is wrong. I have shot PPU ammo with no issues in my 53. Is the action smooth? Could be just dried up grease/oil in the action.

[bob richardson]

I put a small amount of never-seize on the face of the forcing cone to help dissapate the super hot gasses from eroding it.Seems to help and makes cleanup easier.I know all the purists will say never do that but I do and have never had a problem.I also just clean the cylinders and ammo with a little bit of alcohol or brake clean and no problem either.

[rburg]

All this waste of alcohol. Its for drinking, not putting on a gun. The best product I've found (and used constantly) is lighter fluid, like the old ronson lighters used. I used to get dented cans for free, but it doesn't take much and a closed can will last a long time. These days I've heard it called cigar lighter fluid. Its the same petroleum naptha stuff. Like I used in my hand warmers as a kid and on in my early years of hunting.

The best device for wiping the cylinders is a bore swab. Find some place that has them cheap and buy up a bunch of .38/357 size. Chuck one in a drill and then give it a shave at the end to 22 caliber. Just like the one that shipped with the gun. Squirt some on the swab and run it in and out of each cylinder. A wet swab will do all 6 holes fast and easy.

[bdblk12v]

I found some lighter fluid. I haven't shot the gun again it's been too windy. I ordered a professional wheeler screwdriver set. I'm going to tear it down clean it and oil it. If that doesn't cure it what can I do? Does Wolff make a set of springs for it? Thanks for the help could I use copper kote on the forcing cone? I'm not going to shoot this gun a lot but when I do I want it to function correctly. I've searched for one for about 4 years. Thanks Robert

[smithrjd]

Any spring kit for a K frame should work fine. On my 53 also a first year, I found that the hammer and trigger were dragging a bit when the side plate was tightened down fully. There were some rough machining marks on the inside of the side plate. They will be easy to see, as well any drag lines on the hammer or trigger, they will be shiny. Be careful, and go slow.

[glenncal1]

Get a Wolff power spring for your mainspring, they are a better product than stock IMHO. Also make sure the firing pin channels are clean of old oil/grease.

[rburg]

No one learns he easy way. The very best first aid for almost any revolver problem is a full cleaning. One that doesn't leave even a single mark on your white cotton gloves. I don't mind gun scrubber stuff, but auto brake cleaner, the old one that causes cancer, works as good or better. The problem with also nasty carburetor cleaner is that it dries way too fast. For cheap, gasoline is a good soak. Then follow it up with a dunking in ATF (Auto Transmisson Fluid). Which doesn't matter, Ferd, chev or chrysler. Just make sure you don't let it sit after the solvent. It needs oil.

Let everyone gasp. I use a jewelers screwdriver, the tiny one, to loosen any pockets of nastyness I discover inside the action. I'd do that before I even consider replacing parts. Cleaning, in my experience, cures the lions share of real or imagined malfunctions. Jets can be touchy. Young girls by toyotas because they can drive them with no maintenance. They should also buy ruger 22 autos for the same reason. If you man up and buy a K22 you can assume you'll need to treat it with some skill. The Jet takes it to a whole new level. Yes, it does include removal of the sideplate.

One time I picked up a nice looking 44 2nd model that had to be coaxed into firing. I took it apart right there at the range, on a picnic table. It had what looked like a spider cocoon inside. Gasoline and some 3in1 oil made it run like a champ. My fault for not cleaning a new to me gun before taking it shooting.

[larryofcc]

Originally Posted by rburg

All this waste of alcohol. Its for drinking, not putting on a gun. The best product I've found (and used constantly) is lighter fluid, like the old ronson lighters used. I used to get dented cans for free, but it doesn't take much and a closed can will last a long time. These days I've heard it called cigar lighter fluid. Its the same petroleum naptha stuff. Like I used in my hand warmers as a kid and on in my early years of hunting.

The best device for wiping the cylinders is a bore swab. Find some place that has them cheap and buy up a bunch of .38/357 size. Chuck one in a drill and then give it a shave at the end to 22 caliber. Just like the one that shipped with the gun. Squirt some on the swab and run it in and out of each cylinder. A wet swab will do all 6 holes fast and easy.

You must be very old to remember all that. It was the Zippo that took the lighter fluid as well as all mentioned. hand warmers were great until you rolled over one in your sleeping bag and got burned. Thanks for the memories. Big Larry

[rburg]

Originally Posted by larryofcc

You must be very old to remember all that.

Older than dirt. Older than car payments. But not as old as my friend Charlie Sherill! He's got me by 3 weeks.

I've still got one of the hand warmers....someplace. I've seen it not too long ago. I assume the thing still works, as there are no moving parts. Only the wick and the catalyst burner. I doubt the platinum wears of corrodes. These days they use the ones that you just boil in hot water to restore. Between they sold sticks of some carbon that would heat until it burned out. Must be cold where I live.