I finally shot my new to me 27-2 today and it was rough. So when I got home I decided to take her apart and clean/grease her up, first she was BONE DRY so after a cleaning and then light greasing she's SUPER smooth now, only problem Is somehow i managed to pull the cylinder turning plate off the trigger and gave ZERO idea how it goes together

PLEASE HELP ME

The little rod with the ball on the end do I have to push that up past the hole where the cylinder spinner thing goes? I can assembly the gun but the cylinder doesn't spin and ALL the videos and pictures I find on Google shows the trigger with the cylinder spider together, BUT noone shows how to remove the two and then put them back together....so that rod with ball end has to keep tension on the cylinder spinner thing no?

In the FAQ, on the 'Smithing' portion of the forum there is some info about re-installation of the hand. Scroll down to the trigger/hand and spring schematic.

FAQ's

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

That is called the "Hand", BTW. I'm sure that someone with more experience will explain to you how to replace it on the trigger. BTW, there should be a torsion spring for keeping it on the trigger and making it ride correctly in the frame. Look at item # 71 on this exploded diagram of a 27-3 at Numrich. That part is the same on a 27-3 as the 27-2.

I have done the same thing. Use a small punch or jeweler's screwdriver through the slot in the hammer to push the torsion spring (which should still be installed inside of the trigger body) out of the way while reinstalling the hand in the trigger. You'll know when you've got it, the torsion spring will put pressure on the hand to rotate forward. When reinstalling the trigger into the frame, you need to gently rotate the hand counter clockwise a few degrees against the spring pressure and then guide it into place in the slot in the breech face.

Armorer951 THANKYOU SO MUCH, I didn't realize the trigger stop rod stayed straight out, was trying to prying up with the spring to get the cylinder arm back in

Muddocktor I saved the pictures so I can get my lingo on the correct names.
Walter rego thankyou for the explanation also

Gun was bone dry, it's amazing how much smoother it is now. The cylinder actually shuts now without force, gets that what you get for having a gun made In the early 70's and has never been fired or maintained for that matter

Since I'm now an "expert" on disassembly I might Polish the moving parts. Anyone have a link to a kit that has differnt stones so I can do a polish to lighten and smooth the action?

Glad you got that back together. To me that is the worst no no to do on a Smith. I hate it when I screw one up

So easy to use the weed guard on a weedless fish hook.....Put the weed guard over the spring and pull it up.....insert hand.. pull weed guard off end of spring.....takes just seconds to do it......

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S&W Accumulator

I wouldn't recommend trying to polish it yet. Even though it's a 30+ year old gun, it's still new as far as the internals go. What I would recommend is to get you some snap caps, load them into the cylinder, put a good western on and "kill all the bad guys" in the show. In other words, dry fire the heck out of it and let it wear in naturally. There are some critical angles set already on the trigger and hammer mechanisms and unless you have the knowledge and the tools, you can easily mess things up. And you will find that after you dry fire it a while, things will smooth out even more than present.

What you can do is replace the rebound slide spring and the mainspring with lighter ones, especially after you have broken it in. I like to run a 12 or 13 lb rebound slide spring and sometimes I replace the mainspring with a lighter one. I use the Wolff brand of springs.

Ok thanks guys, I'll buy some snap caps tonight

Unless there is a hitch or something when cycling in double action I would stay away from the hand, the extractor star, the trigger and hammer surfaces. Hammer and trigger sears are usually very good in the first place and in the second very easy to ruin. Same with extractor star, if it times correctly leave it alone. Sometimes there are small burrs or rough spots in the frame where the rebound slide runs. Those can be polished up a bit with a small fine stone. Same with the bosses that surround the trigger and hammer studs in the frame and side plate. These can be touched up. But, a bunch of dry firing is better to do first. For one thing it will cause any high spots or burs show up as shiny wear arcs on the side of hammer/trigger. You don't need to polish anything completely smooth, just get rid of high spots. Most S&W revolvers have decent triggers to start with.

A reduced power rebound sspring helps as long as the trigger still positively resets. I don't replace the hammer spring. There are several things you can do there though. Turn the hammer spring screw out a turn and fire a 12 rounds or so. If they all fire, turn it out another 1/2 turn and try again. When it starts to miss fire turn it back in 1/2 turn and try again. DO NOT LEAVE THE SCREW LOOSE. Instead turn it tight counting every 1/4 turn. Remove screw and measure with good calipers. Every 1/4 turn is .078 of length on a 32 to the inch screw. Multiply number of 1/4 turns by .078. lets say, 3/4 of a turn. this would be about. 023. File that much off screw leaving tip just slightly rounded. a little long is better than short. Install the hammer spring screw and keep it tight from now on. Some primers are harder to set off than others.

Smooth is way better than just light. Reliable is better than anything else.

After spending some of my earlier revolver days chasing the perfect trigger I figured something out.

It is much better to learn to be a great trigger puller than to try to get a perfect trigger.

Thanks to this thread and the link to Numrich, I found some parts for my 27-3.

Thanks!

Although you may very well get some dissenting opinions on this and other forums, Smith & Wesson tech's and factory trained armorers will tell you that the internal working of their revolvers should remain dry. If you insist on lubrcation, the very tiniest of drops of oil (not grease) could be placed in a very few strategic locations with a needle oiler.

JFYI

Bruce

Bruce maybe I should remove the oil...i put a drop on ever pivot pin contact point etc?

First, there is seldom any reason to remove the hand from the trigger. I know I felt like I needed three hands to re-install it correctly, and even made a special tool to hold the spring in the correct position while installing the hand.

Second Using a needle oiler, I put 1 drop on every shaft bearing surface, (where the hammer and trigger and cylinder lock ride) and wipe my finger with one drop of oil across the surface where the rebound spring slide runs.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

This, although I admit I put a drop or two on each side of the hammer while the gun is assembled and a touch near the
ejection rod and the crane pivot. I use RemOil which is
"watery" and really does the trick without gumming up the
works.

Now, everyone, for the OP, let's give him a BIG HAND!

I usually use a hair pin(very thin wire) and pliers to pull the hand spring back enough to insert the hammer into the trigger holes? Others probably have better idea.
Steve

Lube it with a moly anti seeze or paste. Better than grease.

You have a nice gun and would suggest that any polishing on your part will be like walking on thin ice... without the necessary knowledge required, you may accomplish nothing or render your gun out of time or worse...

Squirt some gunslick in it and shoot it for awhile. Then take it apart and clean the gunslick out and lightly lube again. This is standard procedure with all revolvers in my posession.........new or used.

Ironically, forums like this can be a very bad place for beginners to get their information.

The truth is, there is rarely if ever any reason to take the sideplate off of a revolver except to replace a broken part. I have a Model 1917 that was built in 1917 and issued to my grandfather during WW1. To my knowledge, after 100 years the sideplate has never yet been removed. Yet, it still functions perfectly. How can this be?

Simply, there has yet to be a single broken part; the action has been properly (that is, infrequently and lightly) lubed with a drop of light oil put just in front of the cocked hammer and another put inside through the trigger opening followed by working the action; and once every couple of decades the action has been cleaned by flushing out with a light solvent. These are the only internal cleaning and lubing steps required unless something disastrous like falling in a mudhole happens along the way.

You got lucky this time, but please, PLEASE don't go polishing anything at this point. It is far easier to ruin internal parts with polishing than it is to improve them if you don't know exactly what you are doing. Use alone will smooth things up nicely over time.

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Pisgah

I use a tool that should be present in most post all WW II revolvers-the hammer block. I hold the trigger between the thumb and fore finger of my strong hand. The hand has two pins. The longer one is the pivot. I place the pivot pin in its hole and have the shorter pin resting on the trigger. I then change hands, holding the hand pressed against the trigger with the thumb and fore finger of my weak hand. I take the hammer block with my strong hand and insert it into the groove where the hand spring rests. I push up on the spring with the hammer block and swivel the shorter pin into place. I withdraw the hammer block and the hand is now under spring tension.

It takes less time to do it than it does to read how.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I used dental floss.

I open up every revolver new or used to lube it.

I jist sipped everuthing down again but did leave a little oil on the internals. I did the same for my model 51 I jist bought and I'm gonna do the same for the model 10 that should be here tomorrow. And I will not try to polish or alter any of my revolvers PROMISE