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Old 03-12-2017, 08:25 PM
superdutyscaler superdutyscaler is offline
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Default 27-2 trigger goof up

I finally shot my new to me 27-2 today and it was rough. So when I got home I decided to take her apart and clean/grease her up, first she was BONE DRY so after a cleaning and then light greasing she's SUPER smooth now, only problem Is somehow i managed to pull the cylinder turning plate off the trigger and gave ZERO idea how it goes together

PLEASE HELP ME

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Old 03-12-2017, 08:28 PM
superdutyscaler superdutyscaler is offline
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The little rod with the ball on the end do I have to push that up past the hole where the cylinder spinner thing goes? I can assembly the gun but the cylinder doesn't spin and ALL the videos and pictures I find on Google shows the trigger with the cylinder spider together, BUT noone shows how to remove the two and then put them back together....so that rod with ball end has to keep tension on the cylinder spinner thing no?
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:31 PM
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In the FAQ, on the 'Smithing' portion of the forum there is some info about re-installation of the hand. Scroll down to the trigger/hand and spring schematic.

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Old 03-12-2017, 08:33 PM
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That is called the "Hand", BTW. I'm sure that someone with more experience will explain to you how to replace it on the trigger. BTW, there should be a torsion spring for keeping it on the trigger and making it ride correctly in the frame. Look at item # 71 on this exploded diagram of a 27-3 at Numrich. That part is the same on a 27-3 as the 27-2.
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:27 PM
Walter Rego Walter Rego is offline
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I have done the same thing. Use a small punch or jeweler's screwdriver through the slot in the hammer to push the torsion spring (which should still be installed inside of the trigger body) out of the way while reinstalling the hand in the trigger. You'll know when you've got it, the torsion spring will put pressure on the hand to rotate forward. When reinstalling the trigger into the frame, you need to gently rotate the hand counter clockwise a few degrees against the spring pressure and then guide it into place in the slot in the breech face.
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:46 PM
superdutyscaler superdutyscaler is offline
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Armorer951 THANKYOU SO MUCH, I didn't realize the trigger stop rod stayed straight out, was trying to prying up with the spring to get the cylinder arm back in
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:55 PM
superdutyscaler superdutyscaler is offline
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Muddocktor I saved the pictures so I can get my lingo on the correct names.
Walter rego thankyou for the explanation also
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:57 PM
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Gun was bone dry, it's amazing how much smoother it is now. The cylinder actually shuts now without force, gets that what you get for having a gun made In the early 70's and has never been fired or maintained for that matter
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:59 PM
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Since I'm now an "expert" on disassembly I might Polish the moving parts. Anyone have a link to a kit that has differnt stones so I can do a polish to lighten and smooth the action?
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:35 PM
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Glad you got that back together. To me that is the worst no no to do on a Smith. I hate it when I screw one up
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:41 PM
Mike, SC Hunter Mike, SC Hunter is offline
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So easy to use the weed guard on a weedless fish hook.....Put the weed guard over the spring and pull it up.....insert hand.. pull weed guard off end of spring.....takes just seconds to do it......
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Old 03-12-2017, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdutyscaler View Post
Since I'm now an "expert" on disassembly I might Polish the moving parts. Anyone have a link to a kit that has differnt stones so I can do a polish to lighten and smooth the action?
I wouldn't recommend trying to polish it yet. Even though it's a 30+ year old gun, it's still new as far as the internals go. What I would recommend is to get you some snap caps, load them into the cylinder, put a good western on and "kill all the bad guys" in the show. In other words, dry fire the heck out of it and let it wear in naturally. There are some critical angles set already on the trigger and hammer mechanisms and unless you have the knowledge and the tools, you can easily mess things up. And you will find that after you dry fire it a while, things will smooth out even more than present.

What you can do is replace the rebound slide spring and the mainspring with lighter ones, especially after you have broken it in. I like to run a 12 or 13 lb rebound slide spring and sometimes I replace the mainspring with a lighter one. I use the Wolff brand of springs.
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Old 03-13-2017, 09:11 PM
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Ok thanks guys, I'll buy some snap caps tonight
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:29 AM
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Unless there is a hitch or something when cycling in double action I would stay away from the hand, the extractor star, the trigger and hammer surfaces. Hammer and trigger sears are usually very good in the first place and in the second very easy to ruin. Same with extractor star, if it times correctly leave it alone. Sometimes there are small burrs or rough spots in the frame where the rebound slide runs. Those can be polished up a bit with a small fine stone. Same with the bosses that surround the trigger and hammer studs in the frame and side plate. These can be touched up. But, a bunch of dry firing is better to do first. For one thing it will cause any high spots or burs show up as shiny wear arcs on the side of hammer/trigger. You don't need to polish anything completely smooth, just get rid of high spots. Most S&W revolvers have decent triggers to start with.

A reduced power rebound sspring helps as long as the trigger still positively resets. I don't replace the hammer spring. There are several things you can do there though. Turn the hammer spring screw out a turn and fire a 12 rounds or so. If they all fire, turn it out another 1/2 turn and try again. When it starts to miss fire turn it back in 1/2 turn and try again. DO NOT LEAVE THE SCREW LOOSE. Instead turn it tight counting every 1/4 turn. Remove screw and measure with good calipers. Every 1/4 turn is .078 of length on a 32 to the inch screw. Multiply number of 1/4 turns by .078. lets say, 3/4 of a turn. this would be about. 023. File that much off screw leaving tip just slightly rounded. a little long is better than short. Install the hammer spring screw and keep it tight from now on. Some primers are harder to set off than others.

Smooth is way better than just light. Reliable is better than anything else.

After spending some of my earlier revolver days chasing the perfect trigger I figured something out.

It is much better to learn to be a great trigger puller than to try to get a perfect trigger.
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Old 03-14-2017, 12:26 PM
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Thanks to this thread and the link to Numrich, I found some parts for my 27-3.

Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Gun was bone dry, it's amazing how much smoother it is now.
Although you may very well get some dissenting opinions on this and other forums, Smith & Wesson tech's and factory trained armorers will tell you that the internal working of their revolvers should remain dry. If you insist on lubrcation, the very tiniest of drops of oil (not grease) could be placed in a very few strategic locations with a needle oiler.

JFYI

Bruce
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