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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 03-19-2017, 08:00 AM
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Boyoung6y Boyoung6y is offline
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S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking.  
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Default S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking.

I purchased a S&W Model 10-5 a few weeks ago and after shooting a few rounds the wheel started locking. It is not difficult to unlock, but I want to have it repaired. Other than that, the revolver is in great condition and shoots well. My local gun smith checked out the revolver and thinks it may be the "firing pin bushing". You can tell that it is recessed and not flush. I don't thing the picture I attached will help much. I called S&W and they said send it to them, which I will. Has anyone had this problem and does the gun smith's diagnosis sound accurate.
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Old 03-19-2017, 08:17 AM
Swissfan Swissfan is offline
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S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking.  
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Not sure what you mean by locking, but a have a Model 10 that will have the ejector rod start to loosen and not be able to open the cylinder. Check to see if you can tighten the ejector rod. Remember it's left handed threads.
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Old 03-19-2017, 03:31 PM
llowry61 llowry61 is offline
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S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking.  
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You may already know this, but the 586's had a recall for a similar issue. The cylinder would lock up and be very difficult to open. Are you thinking the primer is backing out a tad and causing the opening difficulty because of the recess in the firing pin bushing ?
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:57 PM
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S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking.  
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Hard to see in your photo, but it looks like the hammer nose bushing may, in fact, be below the level of the breechface as your gunsmith indicated. If it is too low, the primers can back out due to lack of support.
If you have any of the brass you were shooting when the incident occurred, you can have a look at the primer area to see if there is damage or drag marks.
If the bushing is damaged, you will need to send it back to have the bushing replaced/repaired. This particular repair takes special tools and repair parts.
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Last edited by armorer951; 03-19-2017 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 03-19-2017, 09:14 PM
zipty6 zipty6 is offline
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S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking.  
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Does it bind when dry firing?

I am very interested in how this turns out. I purchased a 10-5 snub the day before yesterday and took it to the range today. Mine is experiencing similar issues, but I think it may be the pawl or rachet.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:38 AM
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S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking. S&W Model 10-5, cylinder locking.  
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Default DRY FIRE.

It does not lock on when dry fired.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:41 AM
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It does not lock on when dry fired.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:17 PM
zipty6 zipty6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyoung6y View Post
It does not lock on when dry fired.
Thank you.
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951 View Post
Hard to see in your photo, but it looks like the hammer nose bushing may, in fact, be below the level of the breechface as your gunsmith indicated. If it is too low, the primers can back out due to lack of support.
If you have any of the brass you were shooting when the incident occurred, you can have a look at the primer area to see if there is damage or drag marks.
If the bushing is damaged, you will need to send it back to have the bushing replaced/repaired. This particular repair takes special tools and repair parts.
Update: Before sending to S&W I wanted to make sure that was a last resort. When I purchased the revolver, it had not been fired in several months, maybe years. I removed the cylinder and put a real good cleaning on it using a Quad 0 still wool pad. I also cleaned the breechface and firing pin bushing with the Quad 0 as well. I then cleaned the entire gun very well. I took it to the range a couple of days ago and shot of 50 rounds of PMC Bronze, .38 Special, FMJ, 132 Grain and another 50 rounds of Remington UMC .38 Special, MC, 130 Grain. I did not have any cylinder lock ups at all. In fact, it never felt like it may lock up. I took it to the range again today (without cleaning it since the last firing) and shot 100 rounds of Winchester FMJ 130 grain and did not have any cylinder lockups. I guess the good cleaning with the fine quad 0 steel wool must have remove a burr or something. Anyway, I am not sending the revolver to S&W yet. I will keep shooting and see what happens and will post updates.
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:19 PM
zipty6 zipty6 is offline
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I'm glad a thorough cleaning resolved your issue. It's always nice when things work out without having to be sent off for repair. Mine ended up being the cylinder stop. I was able to replace it at my bench.
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