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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 03-24-2017, 10:34 PM
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S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire.  
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Default S&W model 10-5 dry fire.

Does it harm a S&W model 10-5 to dry fire. It was made in 1976.
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Old 03-24-2017, 10:38 PM
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No. Dry fire is great for practicing trigger control.

Rimfire guns should not be dry fired because the firing pin can make contact with the edge of the cylinder.

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Old 03-25-2017, 02:47 AM
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While most would agree that dry firing a S&W centerfire revolver won't hurt it and that dry firing a rimfire S&W revolver is a big no-no, I opt for the motto "do no harm" and always use snap caps in all my S&W revolvers when dry firing. They are a lot cheaper than a gun and cheaper than any repairs that you might have to do otherwise.

Again, I know it might not be necessary with the centerfire. But why not just get some cheap insurance?
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Old 03-25-2017, 11:05 AM
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I agree with Jack, above. Additionally, sometimes, to break the boredom, and just because it's good for you, I'll also load a speed loader and a speed strip with dummy rounds (reloaded ammo without a primer or powder and prominently marked - I drill holes through the cases) and will also practice reloads during the dry fire practice.

Good luck,

Dave
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Old 03-25-2017, 02:09 PM
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After breaking parts in two semi auto pistols (HK and CZ) I always use snap caps. In fact, I was using snap caps when my CZ broke a trigger return spring and the firing pin retaining pin. I have dry fired Ruger Vaqueros and 1911s without breaking anything. But I still use snap caps when I dry fire any S&W revolver. Better safe than sorry even when the owner's manuals says it's safe to dry fire.
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:17 PM
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S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire.  
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After 10,000 or so dry fires with SW center fire revolvers, I have yet to experience anything but a smoother trigger and a stronger finger. I suppose I may change my mind someday ...
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Old 03-25-2017, 04:31 PM
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S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire.  
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I've seen countless people damage their guns by dry-firing them. Usually, the firing pin breaks. But sometimes worse things happen.

Yes, I know the arms makers say "it's okay."

My advice: don't dry-fire your guns.


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Old 03-25-2017, 05:03 PM
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In 50 years or so of looking at and shooting S&W revolvers, I remember for sure seeing exactly one centerfire that showed serious negative effects from repeated dry firing. The firing pin hole through the recoil shield was elongated downward. I speculated at the time that this was caused by over-travel by the hammer nose as it passed through the hole and wasn't arrested by striking a primer or a snap cap. One would think that the movement built into the hammer nose by making it a separate part pinned to the hammer would have prevented this, but in this case it seems it did not. Now, I suppose some other cause could have caused this deformity, but I still think the reason I speculated on is the most likely culprit.

I suspect damage from dry firing S&W centerfire revolvers is a relatively rare occurrence. But that doesn't obviate my decision to be cautious about it.
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Old 03-25-2017, 05:11 PM
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I won't dry fire automatics much. Just to get acquainted with their pull more than anything. Centerfire revolvers that are already smooooth usually don't get dry fired much....just live fired...
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Old 03-25-2017, 05:20 PM
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IMHO, emphatic NO. I've dry-fired every S&W I've ever owned since 1971, (except the K-22) and never had an issue.

Larry
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Old 03-25-2017, 08:46 PM
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While I agree that centerfire handguns are probably alright to dry fire, I also use snap caps, as I see no reason to take the chance.
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:03 PM
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Dry firing is fine, but I like to use Snap Caps just to be safe.
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:10 PM
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How about using already fired brass casings instead of snap caps?
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:13 PM
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Someone had a post here about using silicone to fill the primer pockets as cheap way to make snap caps.
I made about 18 of these using 38 spl cases. They work great and can't even tell the silicone has been struck by the hammer pin.
Just to be on the safe side for the gun I would rather use snap caps even if the factory says dry firing is okay.
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2017, 02:16 PM
Flattop5 Flattop5 is offline
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S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire. S&W model 10-5 dry fire.  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texaspacker View Post
How about using already fired brass casings instead of snap caps?

I use already-fired .22 shell cases to "de-cock" my .22 guns. I just put a spent .22 shell casing in the gun chamber, then close it, then I pull the trigger. It de-cocks the gun without harming the firing pin. I leave the empty shell in the gun. (Warning: if the gun chamber is really oily inside, this will make it harder to open the slide/bolt, as the oily shell seems to "grab" the inside of the chamber).




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