Sorry if this has been asked infinite times, I've tried looking, but can only find info for stainless. Like any tools I use, I want to keep them clean for years of service. So for BLUE guns what is the best way to remove cylinder burn rings, then for cleaning and oiling, what are some of yalls favorite,/best cleaners and oils? Also how much is too much on oiling, rubbing, cleaning etc? Like I said I want to keep them as clean and functional as possible for years to come and I want to take the best care I can. Thank you

To me, that is a little to much cleaning, I clean and oil them after use and keep them in bore stores.

I use a bristle brush, non metal, old tooth brush and clp.

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Mike, AmVets Member, Navy Vet

I've used the Chore Boy copper wool for cleaning the front of the cylinder along with Remington Brite Bore.
A word of CAUTION: Make sure any copper wool that you use is pure copper, NOT copper plated steel.
Chore Boy brand is pure copper, I found it in grocery stores.
Greg

Ok. Thanks everyone, I've been using old toothbrush and q-tips for forcing cone, other tight areas. I've been putting thin laye of oil on after use and wiping off. Will try the chore boy copper lightly just on cylinder face.

For blued guns, I use m-pro and a toothbrush. It seems to perform the best for getting carbon off. A lot of clp's claim that repeated treatments will make getting carbon off very easy, but I don't put much faith in their claims. I don't go too crazy about carbon, though. As long as I get most of it out, I live with some. Most all of my guns are shooters. If I had a real collector piece I'd just not shoot it. And where's the fun in that

"KLEEN-BORE" copper toothbrush and Hoppes #9. Crud comes off, front of cylinder turns copper color----and wipes right off. Totally neglected messes end up looking like unfired, sock drawer guns.

Ralph Tremaine

Wouldn't any copper brush work as well as the "KLEEN-BORE" brush?

I've move away from Hoppes, but it's a good solvent. As I wrote up stream, M-pro is better IMO. When doing a really deep clean I soak the cylinder in a glass jar filled with oderless mineral spirtis (OMS--but I used to use Hoppes) for a week before I scrub with the M-Pro.

Edit: Hoppes will eat away at copper brushes, so be sure to clean the hoppes off them before putting them up.

Cleaning the carbon rings off won't affect functionality over the long run, one of your stated goals. Maybe look prettier, but one trip to the range and "they're baack!" Your call as to whether the scrubbing is worth it.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

I use Blue Wonder for lead and carbon removal. It's a gel that adheres to the surface and wipes off the residue with little effort. Great for bores as well.

The BEST advise I can give you is to use a tooth brush and your favorite gun solvent which will only remove about 10% - but more importantly will keep the build-up at bay to prevent cylinder / forcing cone bind up. To try and remove the burn rings completely is futile and will rapidly cause more arm than good.

Anything that effectively removes them will also remove the bluing sooner than later. EVEN IF you removed them 100% they would return after your first cylinder full was fired next time. Just look at them as "part of the gun" if you are going to shoot it.

Thank you everyone for your knowledge. So main thing is to just keep burn rings at bay, keeping forcing cone clean and excessive buildup..makes sense. So main reason folks clean up stainless burn rings, more for aesthetic purposes to not look dirty, I guess? One main reason for asking was to get a good clean, not necessarily after every shooting mind you, but when I do a hard cleaning, I want to do the best I can and not damage the blueing on my revolvers.

The ONLY guns I clean the cylinder face thoroughly on are the one or two guns I have that seldom get shot (old & collectible guns - not safe queens, but only shot once in a blue moon). Other than that, I just keep them as clean as my wife's toothbrush will get them - LOL!!

PS: Do not use a very stiff brush - an old toothbrush is what I use. I usually trim the bristles down with a scissor to make them a little shorter and slightly stiffer and to make them more even for gun cleaning. They start off as soft or medium bristle toothbrushes. I do not use the Nylon brushes sold in gun supply company's as they are a little too stiff to clean the bluing with on a routine basis.

I use a brass toothbrush and bore solvent on the face of the cylinder and around the forcing cone. If that treatment doesn't get all the burn rings off, they stay on the gun.

I also believe in taking care of my tools. I wipe them down when I'm done with them. I don't fire up the buffing wheel and remove the marks from the face of the hammer.

Welcome to the FORUM! I just clean my guns after every range visit as well as possible. Burn rings are kind of a fact of life. Bob