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Old 04-12-2017, 04:57 PM
johnarringdale johnarringdale is offline
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Apparent crack in Model 27-2 body Apparent crack in Model 27-2 body Apparent crack in Model 27-2 body Apparent crack in Model 27-2 body Apparent crack in Model 27-2 body  
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Question Apparent crack in Model 27-2 body

I purchased the illustrated Model 27-2 Serial #S2827XX from a good friend about 1972. He in turn had purchased it from a friend. Since purchase I fired the revolver only once - 6 rounds of .38 ammo, and it has otherwise set in a secured location. I decided recently that it was time to sell the weapon, which I assumed to be nearly as new. Only now did I recognize that there is an apparent crack in the body at the tip of the ball point pen. Is this a common fault, or unusual, and am I correct in assuming that the value in this condition is pretty much nil? I don't think either of the previous owners were even aware of the crack, which I had not noticed for 40 some years and at first thought to be a scratch.
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Old 04-12-2017, 04:59 PM
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Welcome to the forum

That's the side plate. Follow the crack down to the screw above the trigger. Take the grips off and you will find another screw or two for removing the plate.

That's how you get to the innards of the thing.
Says something about the fitment of S&Ws don't it.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:01 PM
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Yes it junk. Can't be fixed.

Just fooling! No worries. You're seeing the "seam" where the removable side plate meets the frame. They have to put the innards in there somehow.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:03 PM
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You'll find that 'crack' on every S&W revolver. It's the side plate. The plate comes off to get to the internal parts.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:04 PM
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Welcome! S & W and (the other brand beginning with a C that shall not be named) had their internals installed via the access provided by the side plate. In certain Ruger revolvers the internals go in under the frame, via a removable trigger guard, so if you see one of them with a similar crack you have real problems . Enjoy that model 27!
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:28 PM
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Only took you 45 years to notice that, eh? Just got new glasses? ;-)

Pretty revolver.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:28 PM
johnarringdale johnarringdale is offline
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Smile Foolish but relieved

I am embarrassed to have demonstrated my ignorance, but very relieved to be enlightened. I thank you all, and will return to the intended endeavor to establish a value and look into selling this revolver. Not easy to do in Washington state, but I intend to go by the book. I don't need a "Dirty Harry" type weapon, and someone who appreciates older "classics" may have more interest in it.

Thanks, again.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:42 PM
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That's a beauty..and I really like the style of those grips. They almost look plastic?
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Old 04-12-2017, 06:01 PM
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April 1st AGAIN???
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Old 04-12-2017, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnarringdale View Post
I am embarrassed to have demonstrated my ignorance, but very relieved to be enlightened.
Don't sweat it. Youre not the first and likely wont be the last to ask the same thing. Welcome to the forum.
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:10 PM
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Like jack the toad says.. You ain't the first. That's why I keep that picture in the fast draw position.

If you're determined to sell it, consider the for sale function here on this forum.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:08 PM
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I love these threads…mostly because I can imagine the absolute joy when the OP finds the the "crack" that would absolutely ruin the revolver turns out to be 100% good to go! I wish all firearm inquiries had such happy endings.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breakaway500 View Post
That's a beauty..and I really like the style of those grips. They almost look plastic?
Look like Fitz plastic grips to me.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:21 PM
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Don't be embarrassed. I had only owned a few S&W revolvers before, and picked up a Colt Army Special, whose side plate is on the opposite side from a S&W. I was convinced I had a crack in the frame as well.
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Old 04-12-2017, 09:22 PM
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I might add that you should not even consider removing the side plate, "just to look." A special technique is required to pop it off without damage.

Rich
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Old 04-12-2017, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnarringdale View Post
I am embarrassed to have demonstrated my ignorance, but very relieved to be enlightened. I thank you all, and will return to the intended endeavor to establish a value and look into selling this revolver.
We've all done something similar at one time or another. That's how we learn. If you want to thank us, offer that up for sale over in the Classifieds section.
I would put the value of a 27 of that vintage with a long barrel at $800-$1000, more or less.
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Old 04-12-2017, 11:56 PM
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Don't feel bad others have asked this too. Better to be safe than sorry.
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Old 04-13-2017, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnarringdale View Post
I purchased the illustrated Model 27-2 Serial #S2827XX from a good friend about 1972. He in turn had purchased it from a friend. Since purchase I fired the revolver only once - 6 rounds of .38 ammo, and it has otherwise set in a secured location. I decided recently that it was time to sell the weapon, which I assumed to be nearly as new. Only now did I recognize that there is an apparent crack in the body at the tip of the ball point pen. Is this a common fault, or unusual, and am I correct in assuming that the value in this condition is pretty much nil? I don't think either of the previous owners were even aware of the crack, which I had not noticed for 40 some years and at first thought to be a scratch.
Hey I thought your serial number looked familiar: I have a 27-2 with the 8-3/8" barrel, SN S282775 shipped in May 1966!!

How close does yours come to mine?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:57 AM
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Poor old Model 27, forced to live for years in a safe, wearing those plastic stocks... The inhumanity! And like RichCapeCod said, don't even think about putting a screwdriver to that Old Safe Queen, that could destroy value for sure.
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Old 04-13-2017, 01:49 PM
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I'm sure we all have guns we haven't shot yet and their growing roots in the safe. To correct this I think a need a 22cal day, a 38/357 day, a 41 mag day and a 44 mag day of shooting etc. where they get the attention they need and get some fresh air at the range. We need to stop this handgun neglect now. It's a PNHG. "PEOPLE NEGLECTING HANDGUNS" No body puts baby in the corner of the safe. Lol
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Old 04-13-2017, 01:56 PM
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I can understand with the CNC machines we have today machining these to parts to fit so close. But in the late 1800's n early 1900's how did they do it by hand. They must of used a follower or template of sort. But by hand fitting it was real craftsman back then.
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Old 04-13-2017, 04:31 PM
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"Hand fitting" carries with it somewhat of a misconception. Assembly line methods were already in use (Ford "borrowed" the assembly line concept from the gun industry.) in the mid-1800s, pioneered by Eli Whitney, of cotton gin fame, for a gun maker in Mass., I think it was. He engineered a way to produce virtually identical parts that went to a line of assemblers, etc. Tolerances weren't nearly as exact as today's CNC tooling, so rather minor hand-fitting and polishing was to be expected. The more skilled the craftsmen, the better the fit and finish, but it was hardly a matter of one man performing every addition of each part to each individual gun.

Just so ya know.
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:03 PM
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I will take it off your hands for $50, if you pay shipping.
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichCapeCod View Post
I might add that you should not even consider removing the side plate, "just to look." A special technique is required to pop it off without damage.

Rich
Not really. You just take out all the screws and whack it with a big hunk of lead . . .
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Old 04-13-2017, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
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I will take it off your hands for $50, if you pay shipping.
Muggins, You sir are a true humanitarian. The generosity shown to the unfortunate sole who owns a gun with a crack in the frame brought tears to my eyes. People like you are rare.
Best regards, hardcase60
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Old 04-14-2017, 03:13 PM
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The CNC machines have accuracy in the millionths. Plus offsets can be programmed into the control to improve the accuracy when the cutting ram is more out of the head that holds it. The extended weight can affect the accuracy. They actually burn this offset into the computer so it works when the ram is extended. This works on any CNC. Of course they probably have better stuff by now.

Fact, the better CNC 4 & 6 axis controllers were never shipped out of our country. We allowed only the 2 axis controllers to be shipped. So no one could match our manufacturing might.
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Old 04-14-2017, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muss Muggins View Post
Not really. You just take out all the screws and whack it with a big hunk of lead . . .
I use the plastic handle on a screwdriver.
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muss Muggins View Post
Not really. You just take out all the screws and whack it with a big hunk of lead . . .
Oh my.... :-)
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:31 PM
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We all come here to learn. Welcome to the Forum!
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