Would one expect to find "peening" of the cylinder hole rims with evidence of dry-firing a revolver? Looking at picking up a rimfire revolver and need to know what to look for. Thanks.

I would not expect it but it is possible. It would affect the value (for me) but may not cause any issues shooting.

That looks like the cylinder from my 1960s era Iver Johnson Trailsman 66. Despite two trips back to the factory, the timing was almost as bad as your example. When it still wouldn't fire reliably after the second trip, my dad finally let me trade it for a Ruger Single Six which is what I wanted in the first place.

OP, RdrBill's example shows a revolver badly out of time. For a .22 that isn't out of time, the peening would show up on the edges of the charge holes where the firing pin strikes the edge instead of the cartridge rim. While such peening can be cleaned up, it may interfere with the seating of the cartridge.

If you see a handgun with obvious pin strikes between the charge holes, as in RdrBill's picture, walk away and look for a better example.

Supposedly, a S&W in proper timing will have no ill effects from dry firing. There is even documentation originally form DB Wesson himself that said dry firing his .22 revolvers won't hurt them. While I have done so on occasion, it is 1 or 2 times and done very rarely. The pictures show a revolver badly out of time.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I recently bought a brand new Model 617 with a 4" barrel. The operating manual said to not dry-fire without snap caps or otherwise, the gun could be damaged. It cost too much money to not follow the instruction manual!

For dry firing a .22 use the yellow (sorry don't remember the size) plastic dry wall screw anchors. They work like a champ. If you use one up just load another. They are not much for a baggie full.

I would think this is cause by the cylinder stop not engaging. Doubt an out of time situation would cause this damage.

Charlie

[QUOTE=RdrBill;139590689]Sir.
A bad example would look like this.
Bill@Yuma[/Q

WHAT WOULD CAUSE THOSE FIRING PIN MARKS (WHICH APPEAR DEEPER THAN WHAT I WOULD IMAGINE) TO BE STRUNG OUT, BETWEEN THE CHAMBERS OF THIS CYLINDER----BAD TIMING ? ? ?

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I WONDER WHAT WOULD POSSESS THIS FOOL TO TREAT SUCH A BEAUTIFUL OLD REVOLVER, WITH SUCH WANTON DISREGARD ? ? ?

A BASIC CARDINAL RULE IS THAT YOU DO NOT DRY FIRE RIMFIRE FIREARMS, WITH EMPTY CHAMBERS. AS AN NRA INSTRUCTOR, FOR MANY YEARS, THAT IS ONE THING THAT I MAKE SURE THAT MY STUDENTS UNDERSTAND......

COULD THIS HAVE BEEN DONE IN THE FIRST 10 MINUTES THAT HE EVER HANDLED A GUN ? ? ? EVEN THEN, I FIND HIS BEHAVIOR INEXCUSABLE......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I have owned a bunch of S&W .22 revolvers since buying the first, a .22 Combat Masterpiece in 1967. I have dry fired all of them with never a bit of damage. The S&W revolvers have parts dimensioned and fitted so that the firing pin will not contact the cylinder when fully extended by the hammer blow. If a S&W lvolver shows an impact mark from the firing pin, it should be looked at by a qualified gunsmith to determine the cause because it is not funcning properly.

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Tom
1560

Even my 40 year old FIE E15 the firing pin does not make contact with the cylinder surface. There is no peening of the cylinder. My wife's Ruger Mark III the gun has to be dry fired to breakdown.

The buyer of Bill@yuma's gun should find another hobby to participate in. High speed DA dry firing with a vintage S&W 22 revolver? As Bugs Bunny use to say, What a maroon!

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Get off my lawn!