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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 06-21-2017, 02:14 AM
bountyhunter bountyhunter is offline
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Default Model 10 shoot +p ammo?

I have a 1969 model 10 (with the pencil barrel). I wonder if SW ever ruled on whether it can safely shoot typical 128 gr +p defense ammo?
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Old 06-21-2017, 03:18 AM
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You can safely shoot any commercially available 38 special ammo in your M10.

Someone will be along to create worry that the +p stuff will cause more rapid wear.

You will wear out long before your M 10 shooting +p.

There is no practical benefit in using +p (except to the ammo companies) but use all the +p you want.
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Old 06-21-2017, 03:44 AM
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It's a gun I wanted to use for my wife's bedside gun so I wanted to use the +p defense loads as opposed to standard .38 spcl.
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Old 06-21-2017, 04:22 AM
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Unless your wife is already quite skillful with your M 10, I'd suggest you use 148 gr wadcutter target loads for both practice and bedside duty.

Your wife will be happy shooting a lot of it and will develop real skill.

It's quite effective as a sd round at close range.

The great benefit is that she'll hit what she's shooting at. She'll be quite confident, and with good reason.
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Old 06-21-2017, 06:16 AM
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Buffalo Bore makes a NON +P load (# 20C) that is actually a better performing round than similar +P's from other manufacturers. It is their NON +P Lead LSWCHP. It does just under 1,000 fps from a 4 inch barrel - to see specs click on link below. Another great SD/ HD round is the Speer 135 grain +P for short barrels (but will work excellent in your M10 too). Pick up a box of both and let her try them after she gets real familiar with the Revolver and lighter loads first.

While I would not say to fire thousands of +P's through the almost 50 year old Revolver, a limited amount will do no harm.

Standard Pressure Short Barrel Low Flash Heavy .38 Special Pistol & Handgun Ammunition

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Old 06-21-2017, 10:51 AM
Tyrod Tyrod is offline
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Quote:
While I would not say to fire thousands of +P's through the almost 50 year old Revolver, a limited amount will do no harm.
Not withstanding better quality control at steel mills, what difference would the age (all other things being equal) of steel make? Does a specific grade of steel go bad over time? The specific formulations of ordinance steels used in gun making, say the 4100 series of steel has been well known for decades. All these issues were well sorted either before or during WWII. I have a 1918 DWM Luger WWI take home. I have no issues with shooting it, no fear at all. Unless acted on by an outside force such as oxidation, extreme heat or extreme magnetism, steel just doesn't go bad.
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Old 06-21-2017, 11:07 AM
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I called S&W as I was sending my model 36 into them for a tune-up and a parts replacement, I asked them about +p ammo in it, they asked for my serial#, told me the year made, and said any of their revolvers with a Model number ie 10, 36, etc. with a steel frame is good to go with +p ammo, My '47 M&P 38 spl. is not. They said +P won't blow up the '47, but it is not recommended due to the older metallurgy.
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:33 PM
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Bounty if it was made in 69 it should be a 10-5, you need not fear regular practice with factory +ps.
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:38 PM
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No problem but remember "moderation in all things".
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:42 PM
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Since we have covered that +p is OK in the Model 10, what load should be carried that would be effective against Bears?

Just kidding folks.

Just kidding.
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apollo99 View Post
They said +P won't blow up the '47, but it is not recommended due to the older metallurgy.
See post #6 above. Steel doesn't deteriorate with age (except for rusting). Smith went to the model number system in the late 1960s. They were using quality ordinance steel (4100 series for example) in the construction of their revolvers long before that.

As for +P ammo, the +P loadings of today are a far cry from punishing or heavy duty. They're actually kind of wimpy compared to the original 38 Special loadings from before the mid-1970s when the standard 158g RNL gave 850-870 fps from 4" - 6" barrels.

If you want a "real" +P loading try the old 38/44 which drove a 158g projectile at from 1125-1150 fps, depending on barrel length. The only modern factory loads that duplicate this are the Buffalo Bore +P 158g loads.

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Old 06-21-2017, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jframejoey View Post
Bounty if it was made in 69 it should be a 10-5, you need not fear regular practice with factory +ps.
Thanks, that's what I wanted to know.
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Old 06-21-2017, 08:05 PM
lebomm lebomm is offline
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The thing that makes an older gun iffy is not deterioration of the steel, but decades of service with Heaven-knows-what kind of ammo or maintenance.

Larry
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Old 06-22-2017, 05:54 AM
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I have a model 10-6 and I have Buffalo Bore Heavey .38 Special +P and that rnd feels more like a 357 Magnum rnd! 12 rnds and I'm done.

I mean yes, shoot the +P all you want but there is a trade=off with recoil depending on the load. I also bought their 125 grn JHP and the recoil on that load is much more reasonable.
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Old 06-22-2017, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave T View Post
Smith went to the model number system in the late 1960s.
Late 1950s
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Old 06-22-2017, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rifmon View Post
I have a model 10-6 and I have Buffalo Bore Heavey .38 Special +P and that rnd feels more like a 357 Magnum rnd! 12 rnds and I'm done.

I mean yes, shoot the +P all you want but there is a trade=off with recoil depending on the load. I also bought their 125 grn JHP and the recoil on that load is much more reasonable.
Interestingly the two +p defense loads I chose and tested had recoil and POI same as the 158 grain standrd load .38 I shoot by the ton (sellier and belott).
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