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08-15-2017, 12:15 PM
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Lock-tite on screws
I just recently purchased a nice older (Jan. 1971) 15-3, 4" standard barrel, and with both target hammer and target trigger. It also had non matching sharp shoulder diamond center magna's. It had just enough handling wear you don't worry about shooting it. As with all the used guns I buy, I open them up and inspect and clean as needed. That's when I find out the previous owner had used lock-tite on all the side plate screws and the strain screw. I broke a screwdriver blade on the yoke retention screw (screwdriver blades designed to break rather than bend/twist and slide out of a slot).
I had to take a hair dryer and heat the screws up before I could remove them. Luckily the insides showed no signs of any wear, but was very dry. I just lubed and put back together.
PLEASE people, side plate screws properly installed do not need lock-tite.
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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244
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08-15-2017, 12:17 PM
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That's painful to hear!
Glad you got it apart safely w/o any damage.
People that don't understand are beyond dangerous!!!
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08-15-2017, 01:01 PM
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And, of course, there are several grades of Lock-tite. The lighter versions basically just keep screws from backing out on their own and there's no problem unscrewing them when you need to take them out.
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08-15-2017, 01:16 PM
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Congrats on the recent Model 15! I'm also glad to hear nothing was damaged. I also rarely see side plate screws that need loctite.
If someone is having problems with side plate screws, I might try finding another screw first. If that doesn't work, remember that there are different levels of loctite for different applications. Loctite on a screw in a conspicuous area like that should have the weakest level of thread grip.
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08-15-2017, 01:17 PM
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A more effective method of removing screws treated with Loctite is to heat the screwdriver with a torch but not to the point of turning the screwdriver cherry-red. Insert the screwdriver blade in the screw slot and hold it there for a while. Other than scope mounts, most gun screws do not require Loctite.
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08-15-2017, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard
PLEASE people, side plate screws properly installed do not need lock-tite.
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Except when they do.
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08-15-2017, 04:49 PM
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I recently ordered some yoke screws so that I have extras from brownells. They came with a blob of red color goop on one side of each. Seems to hold it tight but comes out fine with the blob still intact.
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08-15-2017, 05:22 PM
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Clear nail polish is all that should be necessary to secure any screw on a firearm. Red Locktite is a serous No-No.
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08-15-2017, 05:24 PM
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I suspect that the red stuff on newer screws is not loctite. It could be that it is there to simply provide a vibration dampened engagement by establishing an elastic 100% filling of the mating threads. An effect similar to placing small O rings on the screws holding 1911 grip panels. Just that the instead of only at tthe head it is thinner and on every screw pitch.
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08-15-2017, 07:22 PM
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The "red blob" on new manufactured screws is not lock-tite. It is a medium that fills the screw slot and "jam's" the screw tight, but doesn't lock it. It can be removed normally.
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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244
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08-15-2017, 07:27 PM
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I notice any heavy shooting any revolvers that have screws come loose. The m19 are noted for screws coming loose with a constant shooting magnum loads. That's why I chose the ruger's there's no screws to come loose. My colt Python had no problem with loose screws.
There is all kinds of thread locker make sure your using a removable thread locker. There is a permanent thread locker and a loctite for cylinderical parts. These are forever loctite. But they will loosen up at 400 degrees of heat.
Last edited by BigBill; 08-15-2017 at 07:30 PM.
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08-15-2017, 07:31 PM
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I can confirm the new red blob stuff that comes on new screws for sideplate or yoke works great. No worries if you get new screws with it on. Like the posters said in previous replies it's like a nylon type material holds screw in place and does not effect removal of screw.
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