|
|
08-21-2017, 02:13 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Gold Country
Posts: 203
Likes: 929
Liked 491 Times in 109 Posts
|
|
Refinishing stainless
I've have a finish challenged 65, and just got a 66, that have some scratches. I have cleaned up the 65 and polished out the scratches but now it's too shiney ( the puppy thing...lol). I would like to get back to the brushed finish. Idea's? I was thinking fine brass wool, but also the factory finish seems directional. Anyone done this successfuly? Looking for help....
|
08-21-2017, 05:51 AM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 8,002
Likes: 35,764
Liked 29,650 Times in 6,014 Posts
|
|
When I got my model 67 no dash it had been abused. Lots of pits and
scratches. I had it bead blasted. I really like the way it turned out.
__________________
In Omnia Paratus
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
08-21-2017, 06:43 AM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 854
Liked 4,380 Times in 1,078 Posts
|
|
I used the gray grade scotchbrite pad, going in one direction only and it really helped. Not saying it is going to duplicate the factory soft wire brush look but it gets pretty close.
Stu
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
08-21-2017, 07:09 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 5,443
Liked 2,921 Times in 1,222 Posts
|
|
A dedicated paint store such as a Sherwin-Williams store will carry a variety of Scotch Brite pads.
Scotch Brite pads work well to touch up a BRUSHED, also referred to as SATIN, stainless steel finish.
There are 3 basic finishes for a stainless steel S&W revolver.
1. Brushed or Satin. This is this factory original finish for your revolver.
2. Bead blasted or matte, a dull uniform, finish.
3. Polished. Sometimes confused with a nickel finish.
Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand Pad - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand Pad - (320-400) - which is very coarse for removing deeper scratches.
Study your revolver finish or the finish of another one and follow the direction of the pattern you see from the factory. STROKE IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY.
Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. In your case where the entire side plate seem involved you should remove the side plate screws. Start in the most unobtrusive area first to make sure you get a feel for it and like the result. Go slow, literally pushing the pad fairly slowly, and use a light hand. Start with about a pound of pressure. It doesn't take much. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix. I think it looks best to finish off with the light grey pad. You might consider viewing You Tube for examples of how to do it.
Best of luck.
___________
__________________
Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well
|
The Following 4 Users Like Post:
|
|
08-21-2017, 09:27 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 1,565
Liked 1,364 Times in 560 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by g8rb8
A dedicated paint store such as a Sherwin-Williams store will carry a variety of Scotch Brite pads.
Scotch Brite pads work well to touch up a BRUSHED, also referred to as SATIN, stainless steel finish.
There are 3 basic finishes for a stainless steel S&W revolver.
1. Brushed or Satin. This is this factory original finish for your revolver.
2. Bead blasted or matte, a dull uniform, finish.
3. Polished. Sometimes confused with a nickel finish.
Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand Pad - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand Pad - (320-400) - which is very coarse for removing deeper scratches.
Study your revolver finish or the finish of another one and follow the direction of the pattern you see from the factory. STROKE IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY.
Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. In your case where the entire side plate seem involved you should remove the side plate screws. Start in the most unobtrusive area first to make sure you get a feel for it and like the result. Go slow, literally pushing the pad fairly slowly, and use a light hand. Start with about a pound of pressure. It doesn't take much. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix. I think it looks best to finish off with the light grey pad. You might consider viewing You Tube for examples of how to do it.
Best of luck.
___________
|
This is about as close as one can get without actually using polishing equipment.
|
08-21-2017, 12:21 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Gold Country
Posts: 203
Likes: 929
Liked 491 Times in 109 Posts
|
|
Thanks g8rb8. The 65 looked like it rolled around somebody truck. Had to stone out and sand off some big scrapes and gouges then cleaned it up with some flitz to even it out. I have a bead blasted 65(my avatar) so I wanted to get this one back to original if I can. Can I remove the release latch without disassembly? Removing sideplate screws seems like a good idea too. Thanks again guys !
Edit. Yes I will grab one of my new ones out of the safe and check it out to look at grain and direction, etc
Last edited by Pocketrocket; 08-21-2017 at 12:24 PM.
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|