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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 08-21-2017, 02:13 AM
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I've have a finish challenged 65, and just got a 66, that have some scratches. I have cleaned up the 65 and polished out the scratches but now it's too shiney ( the puppy thing...lol). I would like to get back to the brushed finish. Idea's? I was thinking fine brass wool, but also the factory finish seems directional. Anyone done this successfuly? Looking for help....
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:51 AM
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When I got my model 67 no dash it had been abused. Lots of pits and
scratches. I had it bead blasted. I really like the way it turned out.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:43 AM
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I used the gray grade scotchbrite pad, going in one direction only and it really helped. Not saying it is going to duplicate the factory soft wire brush look but it gets pretty close.

Stu
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:09 AM
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A dedicated paint store such as a Sherwin-Williams store will carry a variety of Scotch Brite pads.

Scotch Brite pads work well to touch up a BRUSHED, also referred to as SATIN, stainless steel finish.

There are 3 basic finishes for a stainless steel S&W revolver.
1. Brushed or Satin. This is this factory original finish for your revolver.
2. Bead blasted or matte, a dull uniform, finish.
3. Polished. Sometimes confused with a nickel finish.



Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand Pad - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand Pad - (320-400) - which is very coarse for removing deeper scratches.

Study your revolver finish or the finish of another one and follow the direction of the pattern you see from the factory. STROKE IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY.

Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. In your case where the entire side plate seem involved you should remove the side plate screws. Start in the most unobtrusive area first to make sure you get a feel for it and like the result. Go slow, literally pushing the pad fairly slowly, and use a light hand. Start with about a pound of pressure. It doesn't take much. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix. I think it looks best to finish off with the light grey pad. You might consider viewing You Tube for examples of how to do it.

Best of luck.
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Old 08-21-2017, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g8rb8 View Post
A dedicated paint store such as a Sherwin-Williams store will carry a variety of Scotch Brite pads.

Scotch Brite pads work well to touch up a BRUSHED, also referred to as SATIN, stainless steel finish.

There are 3 basic finishes for a stainless steel S&W revolver.
1. Brushed or Satin. This is this factory original finish for your revolver.
2. Bead blasted or matte, a dull uniform, finish.
3. Polished. Sometimes confused with a nickel finish.



Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand Pad - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand Pad - (320-400) - which is very coarse for removing deeper scratches.

Study your revolver finish or the finish of another one and follow the direction of the pattern you see from the factory. STROKE IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY.

Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. In your case where the entire side plate seem involved you should remove the side plate screws. Start in the most unobtrusive area first to make sure you get a feel for it and like the result. Go slow, literally pushing the pad fairly slowly, and use a light hand. Start with about a pound of pressure. It doesn't take much. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix. I think it looks best to finish off with the light grey pad. You might consider viewing You Tube for examples of how to do it.

Best of luck.
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This is about as close as one can get without actually using polishing equipment.
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:21 PM
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Thanks g8rb8. The 65 looked like it rolled around somebody truck. Had to stone out and sand off some big scrapes and gouges then cleaned it up with some flitz to even it out. I have a bead blasted 65(my avatar) so I wanted to get this one back to original if I can. Can I remove the release latch without disassembly? Removing sideplate screws seems like a good idea too. Thanks again guys !

Edit. Yes I will grab one of my new ones out of the safe and check it out to look at grain and direction, etc

Last edited by Pocketrocket; 08-21-2017 at 12:24 PM.
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