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08-21-2017, 03:24 PM
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Not chrome not blued, polished!
Recently there was a thread about a pitted M-28 and what could be done about it. Polishing isn't for expensive classic examples, as the photos here are of a frame and barrel purchased separately.
Last edited by Jersey Doug; 08-21-2017 at 04:49 PM.
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08-21-2017, 03:32 PM
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Looks pretty good Doug!! You got any before polishing pics? I see you finally were able to get a pic posted, good job! You can post up to 4 pics at a time. Anyhow if that gun looked bad before I wouldn't know if you did not tell me. 
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08-21-2017, 04:35 PM
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I was taught posting photos this afternoon. When I first joined here the comments were mostly "had to use photobucket." These photos were straight from stored in my computer.
The subtle polishing method used here is basically what is done up to the point of being blued, just stopped at the polished metal point. This example was way beyond superficial worn bluing. With chrome or blued if get rust nothing can be done to bring in back. The polish embedded into the metal done this way lasts a long time.
Last edited by Jersey Doug; 08-25-2017 at 10:21 PM.
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08-25-2017, 03:46 PM
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Will you be coating the gun in some form of lacquer/varnish to retain the polished appearance?
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08-25-2017, 09:14 PM
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The polish worked into the metal in buffing lasts a long time, I'm staying with polish or wax as a barrier protectant for now. Was a year ago buffed still look same as when done. This would also be at a good stage for those that add flat black coatings to be applied that are so popular these days on defense revolvers .
Last edited by Jersey Doug; 08-25-2017 at 09:25 PM.
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08-25-2017, 09:23 PM
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Skeeter Special
Next up,,, this is my M-28 covered to .44 mag. it had every recommended internal target modification done back in the 70s. (M-28s were very sacrificial back then as platforms for other cal.) The barrel and matching M-29 cylinder are chrome so now going to buff the frame to blend in.
Last edited by Jersey Doug; 08-25-2017 at 10:54 PM.
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08-25-2017, 09:53 PM
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I have polished plain steel to a mirror finish it is pretty rust resistant with just a bit of oil or wax. The reason being is the surface is so slick rust has a hard time getting started.
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08-26-2017, 08:43 AM
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Absent Comrade
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A slick finish is not the reason a surface will not rust. Low humidity, a rust preventive coating as you mentioned, and proper storage will prevent carbon steel from rusting.
Have a blessed day,
Leon
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08-30-2017, 08:48 PM
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Next step
Polished the M-28-2 frame today. To remove the barrel from the frame have starboard blocks. These blocks were ground out with a dremel tool to create pockets that conform in holding it. The barrel is in the vice, the frame also held between formed blocks and four C-clamps
The polished metal is not and exact match to the M-29 chrome barrel but passes perfectly for my needs with this shooter.
The previous work done on this frame dates back to 1976 when working in a machine shop at the time I had ground off the S&W address info (lower front part of the frame) using a surface grinder.
Last edited by Jersey Doug; 08-31-2017 at 10:52 AM.
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09-01-2017, 11:19 PM
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one done, one to go
Re-assembled the completed pieces, this being the chrome M-29 barrel, cylinder, side plate, yoke,,with a polished metal M-28 frame. Photo shows end result.
Next up is my other M-28 (from 1974) this one has a M-27 barrel (photo on right). As can be seen frame's not finished on this one.
Grips on the gun shown to the right are old vintage target types that I removed the checkering and ground them to fit my hand, re-stained, then urethaned, gun on left just refinished..
Last edited by Jersey Doug; 09-02-2017 at 12:17 PM.
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