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09-23-2017, 09:36 AM
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1st Post - Model 15-3 WOW!
Hello everyone,
Nice forum you got here. From lurking over the past week or so I was able to glean the date of manufacture (1972) of my latest purchase.
I try to collect military firearms/clones, and I have a pretty strict budget. I am in my early 40's so I am drawn to guns that I remember from growing up as a 80's kid. I like the Cold War-era stuff in particular. Not really into old cowboy stuff, hunting weapons, plastic stuff, or black rifles with things hanging all over the hand guards.
I have never really been that into revolvers, but I recently came across a deal on this 15-3 that was just too good to pass on. All I can say is wow! The level of craftsmanship on this thing is just amazing. Compared to guns like my AK's and AR's, this pistol looks less like a gun and more like a work of art. So impressed with this pistol.
Anyway, after I got it, since I am new to revolvers I have been trying to learn as much as I can about these pre-lock Smith's. Read a lot of stuff and watched a lot of videos. This gun passed all the inspection points laid out in a video on older used revolvers I saw by Larry Potterfield of Midway USA, so that's assuring. The only issue I can see is the finish isn't 100%. It's been carried and shot but not abused.
There is one thing I haven't been able to figure out that I thought someone here might be able to help me out with. This gun has serial numbers in two different spots - one set of numbers on the butt and another on the inside of the frame. However, there is another set of numbers on the part of the revolver that swings out in front of the cylinder. Can anyone tell me what these numbers mean?
Thanks for any help you guys are willing to offer up.
This gun is so nice, I am already lusting after another one in .357 - either a Model 19 or 28.
Last edited by charles_the_hammer; 09-23-2017 at 09:55 AM.
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09-23-2017, 09:50 AM
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The numbers you're seeing on the yoke are factory assembly numbers. They were used to track the various fitted parts of the gun through final assembly. They don't mean anything at this point, the only important numbers are the model numbers and the serial numbers.
Welcome to the Smith & Wesson Forum.
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Dave Brown
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09-23-2017, 09:54 AM
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Dave nailed it, assembly numbers on the yoke. Depending on how many full house .357 loads you intend to shoot, the 28 would be a good choice. There is an endless and inconclusive debate about the longevity of a Model 19 if used extensively with 125 grain .357. The 28 will take about anything you choose to feed it and last forever. The Model 19 is closer is weight and configuration to your 15, both are K frames. I own both, carry the 19 and shoot the 28 on the range.
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09-23-2017, 10:00 AM
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Welcome to the forum, 20 minutes later your questions are answered. This is a great place. I agree with the 28 over the 19 advise from Inusuit, I just picked up a N frame 357 magnum with a 5" barrel and love it. It has quickly become my favorite range gun.
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09-23-2017, 10:10 AM
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Thanks, fellas.
I had read recently about the N frames being a better choice for the .357, too.
I would rather have a 27 or 28 anyway, just because the 19 looks so much like the 15. I definitely want a .357 now, though. I think that would probably be as powerful a revolver cartridge as I would like to go. I am tall and lanky, and I don't want to dump a bunch of $ into a .44 magnum then be uncomfortable shooting the thing. "A man's gotta know his limitations", and I like to shoot all the guns I have not just look at them.
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09-23-2017, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inusuit
Dave nailed it, assembly numbers on the yoke. Depending on how many full house .357 loads you intend to shoot, the 28 would be a good choice. There is an endless and inconclusive debate about the longevity of a Model 19 if used extensively with 125 grain .357. The 28 will take about anything you choose to feed it and last forever. The Model 19 is closer is weight and configuration to your 15, both are K frames. I own both, carry the 19 and shoot the 28 on the range.
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Yep, what he^ said. The M19 is a sweetie, no argument, but there's the (admitedly small) possibility of the infamous forcing cone dilema, and you just don't know if somebody ran a buttload of their extra-spicy 125gr handloads through it,and have it primed for an unfixable problem.
So yeah, I'd be on the hunt for a M28 over a M19 or 66.
And besides, the beeffier M28 is just plain cooler looking than the smaller, K-framed 19/66's .
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09-23-2017, 02:56 PM
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Welcome to the forum. You have the beginning of a fine collection.
I love both my Model 19 and my Model 28 but when shooting .357's there is no doubt who the "main man" is; the Model 28.
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Mike
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09-23-2017, 03:20 PM
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Now just a minute you N-frame fellows!
How about telling a newer revolver contributor about
the L-frame.
Do look into the N-framed Model 27 and 28s but also
check out the 586s or 686s L-frames. Choice will
probably be on pre internal lock model but a brand
new one will serve just as well.
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09-23-2017, 03:25 PM
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Welcome to the FORUM! Don't overlook the L frame .357 revolvers also. I have a 586, 4" no dash, 6" 686-3, and a 5" 686-6, Pro-Series. These are a happy medium between the K & N. Bob
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09-23-2017, 03:34 PM
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An "L" frame?
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Mike
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09-23-2017, 04:25 PM
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LOVE "L" FRAMES
I just love my 686 pro series SSR!!! I had a master gunsmith do a action job on it, and it is smooth. It ended up with a 9 pound 13 ounce DA trigger pull using the stock springs!!!
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09-23-2017, 04:56 PM
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Bit off subject, sbd321, but just the other day I bothered to measure the DA stock trigger on my Ruger Match Champion.
It was right at 9 and 3/4 pounds.
I know with a spring kit either a Smith 686 or Ruger GP 100 can have a DA trigger around 8.5 pounds and still be totally reliable.
Stock trigger in my 686-plus is right at 10 pounds. But it is so, so smooth.
I've found that going much below 8 pounds, even if reliable,
is not something I like.
All my revolver shooting is DA.
Last edited by UncleEd; 09-23-2017 at 05:00 PM.
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09-23-2017, 05:31 PM
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Began my shooting career with Pre Model Number revolvers made in the 1950s in both K and N frame
A bit later moved along with many low dash Model Numbered revolvers.
Again moved on to stainless steel as models appeared.
I moved on to first half of 1990s vintage in SS with most being about 1994-1995.
The L frame 686-4 would be my recommendation for a 357 magnum.
I have a K frame 3" 66-2 and 3" 13-2 that go to the range and shoot 158gr bullets loaded in 357 magnum cases.
My 2 1/2" 6 shot 686-4 makes just about every range trip.I like the gun and have great confidence in it.I put the targets out at 10yds and put most in the X or 10 ring and one/maybe 2 in the oops ring.In closer it's all DA and a lot of smoke.
Take your time and make well thought out choices that fit your needs and not those of others.
Picking the right grips is harder than picking the gun.
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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN
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09-23-2017, 07:11 PM
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L Frame and I suggest more than one barrel length.
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09-23-2017, 07:39 PM
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Charles, didn't hear any mention of pics But we do love em! Welcome to the forum from Arkansas! Nice start of your S&W collection! Welcome to the slippery slope!
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09-23-2017, 08:25 PM
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Pictures , pictures , pictures. We Need to see that beautiful roscoe!
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I reckon so
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09-23-2017, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark IV
Yep, what he^ said. The M19 is a sweetie, no argument, but there's the (admitedly small) possibility of the infamous forcing cone dilema, and you just don't know if somebody ran a buttload of their extra-spicy 125gr handloads through it,and have it primed for an unfixable problem.
So yeah, I'd be on the hunt for a M28 over a M19 or 66.
And besides, the beeffier M28 is just plain cooler looking than the smaller, K-framed 19/66's .
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Also consider the excellent 586 or 686. They are a generation after the 15 and the 28, but are darn fine Revolvers as well.
The 586 is really a neat revolver.
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09-23-2017, 10:06 PM
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I'm on the L frame wagon. Love my K's and respect the N's but the L's fit me best.
Welcome to the forum.
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09-24-2017, 07:32 AM
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BTW, welcome to the forum
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John
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09-24-2017, 08:17 AM
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Charles the hammer;
Welcome to the forum from Virginia! You are really going to like it here. Whatever your budget is doesn't matter.....we are here to help you spend it
As you know there are zillions of guns for sale, so the most important thing is to always look for the letter "S", then look for the "ampersand", then the letter "W"....the rest is pure gravy!
As regards your next purchase in .357 Magnum, the guys are not quite shooting straight with you. As stated with most S & W revolvers, the model number and serial number are everything and we are told to disregard any other numbers because they are "assembly numbers".
There is one major, big time exception that we are all aware of and that is a .357 Registered Magnum which has the registration number on the frame. These beauties were made long before Model numbers (started 1957) so to some of us they are the Holy Grail of our "search, acquire, shoot & accumulate" mission.
At least for me because I don't have one.....yet.
Enjoy that 15-3, and stay vigilant looking for the Model 19 or Model 28 (or the Reg Magnum should you be lucky enough).
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09-24-2017, 08:53 AM
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The model 15 is a great gun. All the suggestions on 357s are good. I am an N frame guy myself.. But, you shouldn't leap to a decision on the larger calibers based on how you might not be ablle to handle the recoil. I think many tend to give over blown accounts of 44 mags recoil. Plus, 44s fire 44 specials which are much milder, then there are the 45 caliber guns. Both the 45 acp and the 45 colt, both fire bigger heavier bullets and the recoil from them in N frame isn't that much differnt than 357s especially 357 in lighter frames.
Plus, some people handle recoil different, lots of variables. hand size, thickness of palms, wrists etc etc.
If you get the opportunity fire some of the big bore fun guns
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09-24-2017, 09:03 AM
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Welcome to the Forum from Pennsylvania!
It's a pleasure to see another contributor here.
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09-24-2017, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleEd
Do look into the N-framed Model 27 and 28s but also check out the 586s or 686s L-frames. Choice will probably be on pre internal lock model but a brand new one will serve just as well.
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I was just looking at the 586's earlier today. The 28's appear to be in higher demand, so I might be more inclined to go with the L Frame on price alone. I would like to get an early 80's one if I could, though.
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09-24-2017, 06:37 PM
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Here she is.
I don't really know what "percentage" the bluing is, but there is some wear to the cylinder and tip of the barrel. the grips aren't as glossy towards the bottom, either.
As far as picking up more goes, I have already caught myself shopping around for another one LOL. There is an older former service revolver sitting in a local outdoors shop (a mom and pop's one, believe it or not) engraved "NPD" on it. It's a model 10-6 HB. The finish and grips are really rough but it seemed quite good mechanically - I tested it using the "Larry Potterfield" inspection process I saw on YouTube like I did on the 15-3 - and it appeared to be very sound. He wants a little too much for it IMO, but I'm sure the price would be negotiable. He also had a NOS set of Pachmayr "Presentation Grips" for a K Frame in an orange and white box that looks like it's from the 1970's. It doesn't have the standard Pachmayr Medallion on the side, though. They are just plain rubber.
I do like the looks of that 10-6 HB, but I know if I did snatch it up I would be tempted to send it back to S&W for a re-bluing and then be all over Gunbroker looking for model/period correct original grips for it. I know that's not a very wise thing to do according to many, but it just looks sorta sad in its current state.
I do appreciate all the feedback. You fellas really know your stuff. As I previously stated, I've never been a revolver guy but I could see myself collecting these. They really are like pieces of art compared to the other guns I own.
Last edited by charles_the_hammer; 09-28-2017 at 10:15 AM.
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09-24-2017, 07:06 PM
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I also picked up a way to tote the thing around at a pawn shop Saturday for a grand total of $25
Came with the following items:
Black Safariland 2.25" suede-lined leather duty belt with brass buckle. Looks brand new. Made in Mexico.
2X .38 Special HKS Speedloaders
Black basket weave leather "Six Second Reload" HKS dual Speedloader snap case.
Black leather retention duty holster. Looks like the Gould Goodrich B501-34 that is made for a 4" K Frame, but it has the Smith and Wesson logo stamped on the back instead of G&G. It's the exact same holster and model number as far as I can tell, it's just got the S&W logo on it. Maybe it's a one-off? It's in good shape, but doesn't look new like the other two leather items. I have been rubbing it with neatsfoot oil today to get it to soften up a bit.
I also picked up what appeared to be about a ten year old 50 round box of Sellier and Bellot 148 grain wadcutters for an additional $10.
Got out after having spent $35 for everything. I thought I did OK. Saved a lot over buying new, anyway, judging from the prices I researched on the web later on when I got home.
Last edited by charles_the_hammer; 09-26-2017 at 07:15 PM.
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09-24-2017, 08:23 PM
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Love Model 15's and have several. Highly recommend the Model 586...my absolute favorite revolver. Full underlug provides excellent balance. You can also opt to shoot 357 or 38 rounds. Personally prefer 4" barrel over 6". Good luck!
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09-25-2017, 08:47 AM
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WOW! This turning into a great thread. Good advice, fantastic pics, what more could you ask for except MORE!!!!
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09-25-2017, 09:01 AM
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Welcome from Va.
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Roger
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