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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 10-13-2017, 11:42 PM
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Default 15-3 Factory Nickel or ???

Just took receipt of my 1970 15-3 and it's in better shape than I thought it would be. It needs a good cleaning and a bit of polish....but I'm quite satisfied with the $300 purchase.

The seller didn't think it was a factory nickel job as there was no N marking under the left grip. There is, however, an N in a circle under the right grip....is that just a factory marking or does it have some meaning.

And there are a bunch of other markings: under left grip a small V, a W in a circle and a #4. Under right grip the N in a circle, a 2, a 3 and an A inside a triangle. All manufacturing code of some sort?

Here's a few pics of the right side of the gun. The stampings look pretty crisp but the hammer and trigger don't look case hardened, but they're not a bright as the frame and cylinder either.

I'm not really concerned if it's factory or not, I'm not really a collector in the true sense of the word. As long as it looks decent, shoots straight, and works right I'm a happy guy.

I've been pretty busy posting this last week and want to thank all who shared their knowledge and time to help me learn. The fever is raging.....and I'm having fun.
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Old 10-13-2017, 11:54 PM
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What does the extractor look like? Blue or nickel?

From those pictures only, I would guess it is not factory.
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Old 10-14-2017, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by colt_saa View Post
What does the extractor look like? Blue or nickel?

From those pictures only, I would guess it is not factory.

Blue. Bingo...after market?

Here's a pic.
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Old 10-14-2017, 12:09 AM
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A blue extractor would be correct for a factory nickel finish.

Most after market refinishers plate the extractor in nickel when doing a revolver

It may be factory nickel that was not done at the time of manufacture but sent in later in life
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Old 10-14-2017, 02:22 AM
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The most common place for the N on a nickel Model 15-3 would be on the rear face of the cylinder. Some have it on the grip frame too (left side) but not all.

A blued extractor star is normal for a factory nickel gun. The sideplate seam on this one doesn't look like it has an excessive gap. The hammer looks like it still shows some case colors. This might be original nickel. Hard to say with only those pictures.
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:35 AM
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Doesn't look like a re-finish to me, but it definitely needs to be re-polished to bring back the shine!
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:22 PM
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Another place to look for the N stamp is under the barrel with the cylinder swung out.
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:41 PM
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Pull the grips and check for the "N" stamp on the grip frame, or any factory rework markings.
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Old 10-15-2017, 01:00 PM
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It looks like the hammer and trigger lost most of their case colors when someone cleaned rust off them. Some small pits remain in the side of the trigger. I do not see anything that indicates the nickel plating is not original.

Original nickel or not that is a lot of gun for $300!
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Old 10-16-2017, 10:05 AM
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Original nickel or not that is a lot of gun for $300!
^^^^^^ This right here!
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old bear View Post
Pull the grips and check for the "N" stamp on the grip frame, or any factory rework markings.
The only "N" I can find is an N in a circle under the right grip. No rework marks on either side.d

I had it to the range last week....what a sweet shooter. Why did I ever stop playing with "real" guns (revolvers) and hang around with...pistols? (Unless it were a 39 or 59....and I've got a few of them.)

I can get a picture of anyone wants to see it.
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