Picked up a Model 38

yep380 · #1 10-21-2017, 03:31 PM

Hello all,

I just picked up this Model 38. Serial dates it to 72 (http://smith-wessonforum.com/139788155-post4031.html).

The left side finish is perfect, the right side not so much. FWIW, I don't really care about the finish (I knew about it going in), but I'm curious what y'all think might have caused the issues. I'd also like to know what I can do to keep it from getting worse. The gun is certainly no show piece.

There is also some damage/corrosion on the cylinder. Again, it's just cosmetic, but it's apparent.

Took it to the range today. Should have oiled up the cylinder/yoke as it bound up. Cleaned up nice afterwards though and I'm certain it won't be an issue going forward - the gun was dry, very dry.

Anyway - thanks for any thoughts on keeping it in shooting condition.

yep380 · #2 10-21-2017, 03:32 PM

Couple more pics..

Targets Guy · #3 10-21-2017, 03:34 PM

Not sure. One photo makes it look like an abrasion. The others look like a moisture issue. Too bad but it won't effect the shooting which is a good thing.

Bosquebass · #4 10-21-2017, 03:50 PM

Looks way better than some of the ones I have.
Birchwood Casey has a product to touch up the light spots on the alloy side cover but it is hit or miss as far as matching the original finish.
If it were mine I'd shoot it and not worry about those small flaws,

gmborkovic · #5 10-21-2017, 03:56 PM

Looks like my 1972 Mod-38. I carry that gun in my hip pocket and on the seat of my truck.

murphydog · #6 10-21-2017, 04:15 PM

The flaking of the anodizing is common on alloy framed revolvers. This may have happened due to impact or just because. No way to prevent it except by being careful.

yep380 · #7 10-21-2017, 06:15 PM

Thanks guys - it's a shooter, that's why I bought it. I buy guns to shoot, not look at. I have a M36 from '74 and these two JFrames are the two I've always wanted. I've had a couple 438s over the years, but they just seemed like poor substitutes for what I really wanted.

Was just wondering what y'all thought about the finish and how to keep it from getting worse.

I'm thinking that side panel has been off and maybe it wasn't installed smoothly. Here's a few more pics showing that. These pics make it look worse than it does in person, but they do highlight the panel and seam.

murphydog · #8 10-21-2017, 06:20 PM

On my big computer screen, those look more like scrape marks, possibly from sideplate removal as you noted.

Ivan the Butcher · #9 10-21-2017, 07:05 PM

I have a Colt Cobra(?) that was basically white. I used Birchwood-Casey's aluminum marker on the frame and cold blue on the steel. Turned out pretty ugly! But it is a gun, people will only see when it is firing at them! Butt Ugly!!! If they want shot with a pretty gun, they should pick on a better class of victim. again, Very Butt Ugly!

Ivan

PS I EDC a 49, The "Humpbacks" are great pocket guns!

yep380 · #10 10-22-2017, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murphydog

On my big computer screen, those look more like scrape marks, possibly from sideplate removal as you noted.

I'm 99% sure the sideplate has been off due to the jaggedness of the seam. The seam on my '74 M36 is crisp and like a hairline.

The strange thing about this gun is that aside from the damage shown, it was pristine and barely fired, possibly not fired. Since I've already started firing rounds through it, that issue has been taken of.

KEN L · #11 10-22-2017, 09:18 AM

I believe that damage happened when the sideplate was off the gun or when it was being removed/replaced. I don't believe it's going to get any worse, and if it's going to be a shooter I would just leave it alone and enjoy it. Any touchups that you do are not going to match and will soon wear off. JMO

lonestar57 · #12 10-22-2017, 09:18 AM

Yep its been rough handled but as some said carry/ vehicle guns will show the signs of use. One other thing. Make sure you check under the barrel for the infamous crack were the barrel is threaded into the frame. Just one of those things you check in an older Model 38 and 37. Take care.

jhnttrpp · #13 10-22-2017, 09:27 AM

A friend of mine has a brand new gun. A model 14-3 Masterpiece. Took it out of the box laid it under the bed, unfired. The carpet ate the finish right off or it. New carpet is the most toxic. I have a holster that attaches to the bed. It has a metal blade that inserts between the mattress and box spring. Its a perfect location. If my hand goes over the side of the bed it easily find the gun.
His gun looks a lot like yours all of the corrosion on one side.

yep380 · #14 10-22-2017, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonestar57

Make sure you check under the barrel for the infamous crack were the barrel is threaded into the frame. Just one of those things you check in an older Model 38 and 37.

Triple checked, nothing - it's solid.

As I mentioned before, this gun may have been unfired. If it was fired, it was very little. I'm taking care of that "problem".

iPac · #15 10-22-2017, 12:10 PM

The spot on the cylinder is definitely surface rust corrosion. You can see the rough, raised surface. The spots on the frame are either corrosion to the anodizing or just wear/abrasion marks.

So you do want to remove the actual rust spots from the steel parts, cylinder and barrel. To do this, soak the affected areas with a CLP or other rust treatment mixture for a couple days, then use a copper chisel to scrape the rust off. You can either make a copper chisel out of electric wire core, an older penny, or anything solid copper. You could also get a solid copper chore boy scrubber or the Big45 Frontier pad (but be careful as too much pressure WILL scratch bluing). Depending on how thick the rust spot it, you might need to scrape and reapply CLP to soak, then scrape again as needed.

Once the rust is gone, just wipe the gun down with CLP like normal and that will keep it at bay. Then pack it up and start toting!!!

yep380 · #16 10-22-2017, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iPac

The spot on the cylinder is definitely surface rust corrosion. You can see the rough, raised surface. The spots on the frame are either corrosion to the anodizing or just wear/abrasion marks.

So you do want to remove the actual rust spots from the steel parts, cylinder and barrel. To do this, soak the affected areas with a CLP or other rust treatment mixture for a couple days, then use a copper chisel to scrape the rust off. You can either make a copper chisel out of electric wire core, an older penny, or anything solid copper. You could also get a solid copper chore boy scrubber or the Big45 Frontier pad (but be careful as too much pressure WILL scratch bluing). Depending on how thick the rust spot it, you might need to scrape and reapply CLP to soak, then scrape again as needed.

Once the rust is gone, just wipe the gun down with CLP like normal and that will keep it at bay. Then pack it up and start toting!!!

Thanks for the information. I tried using CLP (not soaking it for very long) and a rag on it yesterday. The bluing is pretty thin there and just rubbing it around that spot on the cylinder was making the bluing thinner. I'll let it soak a few days and see what happens.

I'm not concerned with the looks, just want to avoid further damage.

adwjc · #17 10-22-2017, 10:32 PM

yep380,

my guess would be that the gun was stored in a holster, possibly a holster damp from perspiration, thereby causing the rust spot on the cylinder and the corrosion of the anodized frame. You can see that someone attempted to sand or buff that rust spot.

I have seen a few side plates that looked like yours, as long as it fits into place (don't forget it is cut to support the studs inside) don't worry about it.

You have a good shooter there, some carry time will just put more marks on it anyway.

yep380 · #18 10-24-2017, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adwjc

yep380,

my guess would be that the gun was stored in a holster, possibly a holster damp from perspiration, thereby causing the rust spot on the cylinder and the corrosion of the anodized frame. You can see that someone attempted to sand or buff that rust spot.

I have seen a few side plates that looked like yours, as long as it fits into place (don't forget it is cut to support the studs inside) don't worry about it.

You have a good shooter there, some carry time will just put more marks on it anyway.

Yeah, the side plate looks like it's in the right place - not gonna worry about it. Shot fine, it's a carry piece, nothing wrong with a little extra carry character on it.

Old cop · #19 10-25-2017, 03:47 PM

I’m guessing this gun was carried stuffed into a waistband w/o a holster, probably by an undercover cop, sometime in its life. I used to do this when working certain assignments and my working Model 38 looks like yours.

yep380 · #20 10-25-2017, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old cop

I’m guessing this gun was carried stuffed into a waistband w/o a holster, probably by an undercover cop, sometime in its life. I used to do this when working certain assignments and my working Model 38 looks like yours.

That's probably as good an explanation as any. It would make sense as the cylinder has that rust spot where it could have been against bare skin and the opposite side may have been rubbed against pants or jeans.

The other thing is this gun had not been shot much prior to me getting it; it's very tight.

Old cop · #21 10-26-2017, 08:35 AM

I tried to keep my Model 38 from rusting but stuffed into my waistband against a thin T-shirt didn’t help. I kept a silicone cloth in my locker and I’d wipe it down daily but it was too little too late. Still have that little gun and it shoots great.