Got a nickel m38 Airweight Bodyguard that I have put about a bazillion rounds through. It is loose in all directions, it spits, and the finish has seen better days - lots of sweat and holster wear over many years did not do it any favors. But I like the gun and it has sentimental value, and the 442 that took its place just isn't the same.

Does S&W still work on these earlier (relatively speaking) guns for mechanical repairs and refinish? If not, who can get the mechanicals back in order?

I'm assuming Fords would be a good choice for a refinish if S&W won't do it or if their current finish work is not well respected, unless I commit sacrilege and do NP3+.

Input and suggestions on this topic would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like you got your money’s worth out of it. Hang it on the wall and appreciate all the years of good service and buy a new one or send it back for an overhaul and get an aftermarket finish. Nice to hear about a S&W that was used for it’s intended purpose.

I have had Nelson Ford in Phoenix, AZ work on a couple of K-frames and have always been more than happy with the results. I would recommend talking to him about what exactly you want done. I actually have another one that I need to drop off to him.

The Gunsmith, Inc.

Ford is excellent.

S&W will probably work on your gun as well. Their nickel refinish is very good as well: it hasn’t suffered the way their bluing work has. I would hesitate having them do a reblue.

I'd probably get it fixed so it functions properly, but then leave the finish as is.

A well used, but serviceable gun has a certain class to it.

The Model 37 below falls into the well used but serviceable category.

Shoots just great, one of the most accurate I have, but you can see on the crane a spot where the blue is worn off. Also, the barrel end, and the edges of the cylinder and on the front of the trigger guard.

I figure it's probably been carried many a mile as someone's backup gun.

But I like it just as it is.

Attached Images

37-0-short.jpg (51.5 KB, 780 views)

I shot my M37 to the point the ejector rod hole in the aluminum recoil shield became an oval and not round! That caused the timing to be off and it would spray lead and would not let the firing pin consistently hit the primer!

If a gun has sentimental value, the last thing you should ever do it refinish it.

Warren,
In general I would definitely agree, but there are exceptions IMHO.

I inherited a Marlin 39A (built 1946) that functioned 100% and was mechanically perfect, however the barrel's finish was so baldly worn off that with just normal use I just could not keep it from rusting. I tried Cold Blue, oils, preservatives etc, and no matter what I did the brown surface rust would shortly return. In fact it got worse as time went on and I had to do something.

Since this Rifle belonged to my Dad I have no intention of ever selling it and would like this to be a family heirloom (assuming guns will still be legal) so I can pass it on down. I also wanted this to be a regular shooter and not just a Safe Queen so I made the decision to have it re-blued - mostly for preservation purposes.

Sending it to the new Marlin Co. was out of the question as they were having quite a few problems, as we know. I wound up sending it to Mid West Gunworks in MO (after seeing 4 Rifles & Shotguns they refinished for a friend) and they did a spectacular job! They told me their standard bluing job would be better than the original Factory bluing and so I went with that. I was not looking to make this into a "show piece", just make it a great looking rifle (as close to Factory) that would no longer rust away. While the metal was out being refinished, I refinished the Stock myself - very carefully. In 1946 Marlin applied some type of lacquer finish that had a tendency to peel - which it was. I gently stripped off the finish, stained the wood the original color and then applied 10 coats of hand rubbed Tung Oil. Not only does this 39A look fantastic but I now enjoy shooting it with my Son and I don't have to worry about it rusting away. I am really proud of this gun and really enjoy taking it to the Range. It does not look like a flashy show gun, but just a pristine Marlin well built form the mid 40's. What ever small dings and dents my Dad did to the stock were purposely left there.

Sorry I am a bit long winded here but I just wanted to post what I feel is an exception to the "leave it alone " rule I would normally agree with.

Regards,
Chief38

I wore out a S&W model 10 when in the NYPD. Sent it back to S&W and they did a beautiful job of making the gun functional again.

Rich

Chief38, I would love to see a picture of the 39A.

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Oh well, what the hell.

I HAD TO DO THE VERY SAME THING WITH A VINTAGE MARLIN 39A, AS WELL. I ALSO VIEWED IT AS AN ACT OF PRESERVATION. THE SIDE OF THE RECEIVER WAS EVEN BADLY PITTED FROM CARRYING THE NEARLY BARE METAL WITH SWEATY HANDS........

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

A loose alloy gun? I would consider it worn out and wouldn't pursue a remedy.I think that gunsmiths would agree.More can be done with steel guns.Not all guns are forever things as we'd like to think,never mind that the economics don't work either..

So where is the pic of this beauty? I inherited a 39A, from the 30's I believe from my Great Uncle a couple years ago. This one is pretty nice. I immediately passes it to my son, but kept the 1927 SAA and Heiser holster for myself

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

The OP was here about a month ago but never posted a reply to this 11 month old question...

It depends on what issues are causing the mechanical problems described. The factory might be willing to replace parts but if the frame or other tolerances are out of spec my guess is they will decline to work on it. They 'might' offer a discount or even a new equivalent version as a replacement, but there seems to be variation on this, depending on the individual customer service rep.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I guess this Thread has been resurrected so let me just take this opportunity to add something.

To me, what Collector's and Author's truly frown upon is when a rare, highly collectible or desirable firearm is refinished removing the one thing is has left which is its originality.

When we talk about "run of the mill" model 10's, model 15's etc. that were made in very large numbers, can be purchased anywhere for a reasonable price and unless it were owned by a famous person or had historical value- will never be worth all that much to worry about devaluation by refinishing.
Aside from which if it will never be sold in our lifetime - it matters little!!

When it comes to a regular firearm that we want to pass down and have in our family's forever, quality refinishing can prevent damage from rust which our heirs may or may not have the desire to constantly care for like we do. To me that insures it will be in good shape for many years after we go to the Big Range in the sky!

Anyway, I just wanted to add that.........

Refinishing a gun will not prevent rusting or keep it from rusting. All it takes to maintain the finish is a periodic wipe-down with gun lubricant or preservative (motor oil doesn't do much in this regard).

Also, why spend money on refinishing "run of the mill " guns when it only decreases their value? Do whatever you want, but that logic does not make sense to me.

Run of the Mill guns: There are certain things in life that I do not put a monetary value on when making a decision. If I like, value or enjoy a firearm so much to keep it until I am gone and buried and then pass it down, I have no problem spending a few hundred dollars to keep it in pristine condition and re-blue it to help prevent further damage. There is not one speck of rust on it since it has been re-blued.

My Marlin 39A is certainly not a rare Rifle and will never be worth big bucks but since it was my Dad's and will someday be in my Sons collection I want it to be in good shape - for what ever reason much of the original bluing was gone and the Stock's finish had peeled. Now it looks like it originally did and should last (worry free) a very log time. It's value to me has now increased - I am not interested what the value is to someone else since it will never be for sale. Aside from the monetary value, I love shooting a good looking gun and don't like rusted guns.

Again, I agree with your though process on originality if this gun belonged to Annie Oakley or other "famous person", was used in a historical way, or was a rare or unique Rifle. Mine is just a run of the mill Marlin 39A but it now makes me proud to own & shoot.

No right or wrong here - just different opinions, lifestyles and ways of thinking. Like in another post I made a few days ago regarding a shinny fresh cleaned and waxed vehicle - I just like them that way and it makes me feel good and proud to drive a pristine looking SUV.

We need a pic of this road warrior. There is nothing more beautiful to me than a gun that has honest use. Not neglect. That's just ugly. I like well used guns more than pristine looking guns. But I can understand why you'd want to restore this one to it's former glory. You may consider just fixing it mechanically and letting everyone else admire your hard earned battle scars.

Massad Ayoob wrote that he shot a Model 38 loose to the point of frame stretching with just 500 rounds of Plus P.

Light alloy guns aren't made to be shot a lot. They're for carrying when a heavier gun isn't feasible.

I have no info on the qualities of Scandium and Titanium guns, but aluminum ones aren't known for high endurance.

I saw a Rossi M720 that was like that - and it had a stainless frame. I can only imagine how many rounds pf 44 special someone had to go through to do that.

For what it's worth, my M&P340 has over 700 125 gr. magnums through it, and it's still "like new."

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