NOTE: I'm sure this is discussed elsewhere in this forum but I must have not used the search tool effectively as I didn't see it. Replying with a link to the proper threads is welcomed!

1. Dry stocks. On my 27-2 there is a dry area on the end of the original wood stocks (see photo).

A. Should I touch it up to prevent dry-cracking etc. or leave it as-is?

B. If touch it up, what is the best oil and perhaps wax to touch this up to prevent dryness and prevent reduction in value (either because of cracked wood OR because of poor touch-up)? Brand and source of product?

C. Any special suggestions on technique?


2. Dinged checkered blue steel. The area is the checkered metal top strap of that wonderful M-27 . On mine, a previous owner dinged the checkering on top an area the size of, say, half of the size of a dime. The effect was to flatten the checkering a bit and also rub off the blue to reveal white metal.

A. Should I touch up the blue with a non-permanent cold blue to reduce the white metal look and prevent rust, or leave it alone?

B. If touch it up, which brand/product? If not at Brownells, then where?

Thanks in advance.

Attached Images

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Not so much dry wood,but the finish has worn or flaked off.Id refinish them.Ive never seen a cold blue touch up that looked good.The few I've had that came that way I carefully removed it with a bit of polish

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is one of several products that can give great results on stocks. Between number of applications and the amount of buffing you do with fine steel wool you can get just the sheen you're looking for.

It will not make it perfect, but I have used Oxpho Blue with reasonable results. Not sure how to help you on the stocks.

Also, please wait for other replies prior to ordering the Oxpho Blue from Brownells. I am far from an expert.

Bronze wool is also a little less aggressive than 0000 steep wool.

Thank you. I used some other search terms and got some hits here in the forum. Looks like Oxpho, Nu-Blue and Blue Wonder are popular. I'm all ears.

No, bronze wool is a lot less abrasive than steel. Use an oily rag.

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

I would try Renaissance Wax on both. Basically there are two approaches here. Protection or restoration.

The wax will protect both areas without any attempt to conceal same. Contact member DWFAN if you want tips on stock restoration.

The checking if dinged cannot be repaired unless it is recut and reblued. The wax will protect the white metal from corrosion without trying to conceal the ding.

Most older guns have handling marks and unless one only collects safe queens, most of us are OK with a few handling marks.

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James Redfield
LM #497

Ren wax on metal, Scott's Liquid Gold on wood stocks.

A second vote for Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Use it sparingly and only add more coats as needed. Allow at least an overnight drying period before adding another coat. Don't worry about any brush strokes as Tru-Oil will smooth itself out as it dries. Avoid overworking the spot as Tru-Oil dries rather quickly. Just apply a thin coat and allow it to dry.

Touch up with Tru-Oil. After you apply a thin coat, let it dry. You can always smooth it out with 0000 steel wool and apply another coat until it matches the old finish perfectly. I have done this successfully many times over the years. Just requires patience and time.

Bill

Tru-oil is the best, just sanded down edges of grips on sw mod 37 that didnt fit right and blended in the areas with tru-oil, now you cant tell that they were ever touched. Blended in perfect.

And yet another Tru-Oil vote here.

If the sides of the stocks look fine, and only the bottom is dull, a fingertip of Tru-Oil will do both sides of the bottom. It goes a long way.

I’ve refinished 5 stocks now using it and it works great.

Thin is the key. I take a bit and dilute it down to a 50/50 mix of Tru-Oil and Mineral Spirits, and apply to the missing finish area to gradually build it up to match the level of the existing finish, making sure each application is dried before applying the next.

Then I do a final topcoat with the thinned Tru-Oil on the entire surface to blend the old and new.

Using a thinned Tru-Oil gives you more control, it's much easier to apply thin coats until you get what you're looking, than putting on something that's too thick that stands out like a sore thumb and trying to undo it.

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222