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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 07-04-2018, 10:51 PM
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Default The $255 Highway Patrolman

The long promised write up: Meet Rockatansky.



I always thought it was silly when people would name inanimate objects, but this one just struck me that way.

Before I get into it, I want to say that I really shouldn't have been buying anything when I got this. I have bills to pay and need to start saving, and there are other firearms-related things needing funding, like contributing to the forum or getting a history letter for ye olde M&P V765425. Like a lot of posters, I blame you guys!

"The 4" N-Frame is the most ruggedly beautiful revolver in existence."
"N-Frames are the ultimate .357s, and will stand up to Magnum loads forever."
"Any N-Frame is worth at least $400."
"The Highway Patrolman is the classic, and classy, working man's Magnum."

So yeah it was rusty and the seller said the timing seemed to be okay and it was sold as is. The Buy Now! was something like $325 and nobody hit it! What can I say, I'm a sucker for a cheap project. When I first saw the listing, my thought was to install one a them fixed sight conversions and an aftermarket lanyard loop, give it a park job and some magnas or even service stocks, and come up with a moniker like Cold War Victory Model, or Nuclear Victory model.

hm, that grip screw looks like a counter-sunk Phillips. Is that what I think it is?



Yes. Yes it is.

At least Mr. Bubba broke off the tip so it wouldn't lay open your hand when you fired it. The worst part is that the threaded escutcheon is still there, somebody just thought it was better to use a wood screw than try to find a regular grip screw.









Aye, air's a wee bit o frosting, oota buff up nicely. Ever notice how a gun will look okay in natural light, but then a flash makes any rust jump out at ya? My favorite part was the burr on the muzzle, apparently from being dropped, that bent over enough metal to form a hook. When laid on that side on the poncho liner, when you picked it up the burr would snag the cloth and pull it up. That and a dent on the front sight blade were smoothed down with the file on my Leatherman.

The timing is not "okay". Did the finger drag single action thing, no lock-up. Tried it with empties in the chambers, much better, only barely happened on a couple chambers. Normal cocking speed w/o dragging the cylinder let it lock up every time. The cylinder would always have complete travel in trigger-cocking mode, no matter how slow I pulled the trigger, and the action has that buttery smooth Smith feel that a few thousand rounds can produce. Some searching for the carry up problem turned up a few folks, none from here, that said the solution was to bob the hammer and make it DAO! Well, I guess that's one way. One strange thing that happened after a rust removal bath & general cleaning was that the single action problem got worse. Now when I pull the trigger easy with the hammer cocked, when it breaks the hammer pushes the trigger forward as it lowers, it doesn't "fall" per se. It's like the trigger becomes a hammer-dropper. Pressed quick, the SA trigger trips the hammer normally.

After looking around for parts, I found out that the fixed sight thingies were for later frames, and this one would need to be drilled & tapped. Also the only bolt-on lanyard loops were the ones specifically for Hogue grips, and wouldn't work for factory type stocks. As my mind wandered, I thought about a midnight Ceracoat job for that Big Black Nasty Mutha look, maybe with some Altamont Bateleur Silverblack grips, then I thought about doing something weird, like making it white or red or some such. Eventually I started to dig on the Mad Max vibe, and I had to give it a name.

I hate thumb-rest grips, and the ones that came with the gun have filler behind the back strap, not good for my medium sized hands. The seller didn't know who made the grips, he even thought they were made of wood. Didn't notice the writin' on the port side panel until I looked at the pics; Police evidence case number? I figured whittling them down would jibe with the post-apocalyptic esthetic, but I would need to remove a ton of material, there was no guarantee they wouldn't be loose and shifty, and I'd still have to buy a proper grip screw.



Handwritten numbers on grip:
2009-63577
189-01

Did some shopping around for grips, found some from the online auction guy who has T-Grips in stock. They're supposed to be Herretts, they have a S&W medallion, fill in a bit behind the trigger guard but not the back strap, came with a screw and were only $33. I dismissed any Altamont grips, including their magna style "Classic Panel" grips, because despite being very affordable they just looked too good! I'd have to do the Hollywood prop department age/distress thing so they'd blend.

Here it is after an Evapo-Rust treatment with bronze brushing, could use another such treatment (or two). I need to un-stick the elevation screw, it would move a couple clicks before the cleanup but now it's like the Evapo-Rust stuff welded it in place. I've soaked it with Kroil, vibrated it, let it rest and came back at it again, without being able to budge it. The windage screw works despite the battering but it prints low, like 5" low at 7 yards with the only .357s in the LGS, PPU 158gr semi-jacketed HPs.







"From butter-pecan to blackberry molass' "



The new shoes feel pretty good, I was surprised to find that my thumb and social finger overlap all the way to the first knuckle. I could do without the last bit of trumpet-flare on the bottom, but they work.


About that forever diet of Magnum loads:



Forever is a long time.

As to comments about why anybody would want an N-Frame when there are so many .357s out there that are more compact, efficient, easy to carry, etc, here's my take.

I never even fired one before I got this 'un. My first handgun was a 6" 66, I'd shot rented/borrowed 629s, and I've burned a few pounds of powder in a 4" 625 that was my PPC and sometime 3-Gun competition gun for years. I took the rust-bucket 28-2 along just for SNG, before doing any work on it, when I was going to wring out my chosen ultimate CCW gun, which turned out to be a Jam-o-matic even with FMJs. (XD-S if anybody's wondering.)

Feeling rather frustrated, I pulled out the big old crusty rusty fella with the handles I couldn't stand, loaded it up and wondered what new horrors might await me. Had ten odd leftover .38s, 110 gr JHP +Ps, got rid of them first. The cliché "mouse fart" loads came to mind. Then I sent off a box of Magnum rounds like butter, with the expected blast and flame, but in that package they hardly bounced the gun at all, felt completely comfortable. Whereas full loads in the 66 felt like my old 440 Dodge Charger, and +P .38s in a lightweight J-Frame felt like an evil-handling V-8 Vega, with the N-Frame .357s I got the image of sweeping up an on-ramp in a 500 inch Caddy. No pain, just a smooth rush of power producing a relaxed "ahhhhhh".

Yeah it's the old easy to carry vs. easy to shoot balance we all have to find for ourselves. If'n I was a revolver-totin' lawman back in the day who spent almost all his time in a cruiser, as opposed to walking a beat or being a concealed carrier, then I think the 28 would be my choice over a K-Frame. Kinda sounds like the job of a Highway Patrolman, doncha think?
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:13 PM
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A neat project for sure, you and I are kindred spirits,as i can see all kinds of potential in that one. A all weather hunting side arm that no worries in carrying it in any type of weather. I would have it parked and stock it with whatever grips fit your hand best and call it good.
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:25 PM
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I hope that you will post photos of this project and ultimately the finished product. We all love a great rescue!

Randy
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:45 PM
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Thanks for the kind words!

Regarding a refinish, obviously any attempt to smooth out the pits would be a lot of work, and probably make the frame unacceptably thin. Whilst clicking around the web looking up parkerizing, I just recently learned that it can be made to come out different shades, never knew that before. The latest thought is to just have it parked as dark as possible, and see how it contrasts with the light color of the grips.

I spoze I'll have the 'smith look at the action to see if it can be fixed without too much expense, like if he knows what he's doing I'm hoping a bit of peening and maybe a few passes with a stone on the sear or hammer will set things right. If it's too expensive, I may just go ahead and bob the hammer.

Still want a lanyard loop though!
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:47 PM
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I like it!
I'd love to take on that project myself.
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:59 PM
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I'd fix the innards and leave the finish. If'n you want a better looking gun, then buy one.
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:06 AM
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I love N frames and carry one every day as a CCW.

I'd have bought yours if I saw it!

I'd have gone a different route, just cleaning it up, fixing the timing, but otherwise leaving it alone. I like guns with some mileage on them.
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:23 AM
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Nice project, Dave. I would think twice about the lanyard swivel...where it should go would result in drilling through the serial number, and that would be a no-no under federal law. Those guns that are made with one from the factory are either stamped on the front strap, or have the number off-set so that the lanyard doesn't interfere with the number.

I know how you feel, though, as I like the lanyard attachment as well. Sort of Indiana Jones look.

Keep us posted. You are at least at the point where you have a functioning gun for very little investment.

Best Regards, Les
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:31 AM
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Now THAT is how you write a post!
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:56 AM
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I did think about using all caps...

I was considering a poll thread with refinishing options, but it looks like the consensus is to fix the mechanicals and park it, which is the way I was leaning. It's a functional, big bad S&W N-Frame, easy to shoot and not for lookin' pretty. As mentioned I'm an old-timey PPC shooter and am perfectly comfortable shooting DA all the time, but it would be nice to have the SA for those 100+ long shots, just for showing off!

The loop and screw from the Hogue set-up might work with a fabricated stirrup, but then I'd have to either cut up the Herretts or get some new grips. Also, as beat as this thing is, I don't like how the Hogue setup works, screwing down against the bottom of the grip frame and possibly marring the serial number. Think I'll let my Victory satisfy my loop cravings.
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:53 AM
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Keep us posted. Looks like an interesting project. Have fun.
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:28 AM
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Definitely a post-apocalyptic look, I like it.
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:00 AM
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Just an FYI, those grips were made by Sanderson, and repaired/cleaned up would probably bring more on ebay than you paid for the entire gun.

Last edited by gdogs; 07-05-2018 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by les.b View Post
Nice project, Dave. I would think twice about the lanyard swivel...where it should go would result in drilling through the serial number, and that would be a no-no under federal law. Those guns that are made with one from the factory are either stamped on the front strap, or have the number off-set so that the lanyard doesn't interfere with the number.

I know how you feel, though, as I like the lanyard attachment as well. Sort of Indiana Jones look.

Keep us posted. You are at least at the point where you have a functioning gun for very little investment.

Best Regards, Les
Les, for some reason his post, and that revolver, made me think of you.

Thank you Dave for sharing that great revolver, and story, with us!

I can't begin to tell you how much I enjoyed it, and hope to see the finished product!
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:11 AM
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Bet that one has quite a history!
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:11 AM
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They were never meant to be pretty. As a LEO whose uniformed career was spent in a vehicle, that 4" HP was ideal, as you suggested.
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:16 AM
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."...sounds like the job of a Highway Patrolman...."

Yes, kind of, but sometimes they get into "the weeds."

Responded to an accident call. No accident, she shot him dead.

Another accident call, no accident she ran him over when he got out to open the gate.

Another, yes the car was dented, but she had been gang raped. Five guys got 85 years each.

Stopped a convertible flying black lace panties from the radio antenna (remember those?). Turns out to be a stolen car with some really expensive furs in the trunk, stolen from Montreal.

Or how about a safe in the back of a van late at night?

Or a load of oil field drill stem moving late on a back road.

Or devising an enforcement plan around apprehending a mass murderer?

All in a day's work riding around in a cruiser.....and for a lot of that time packing a 4" 28.

Jack

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Old 07-05-2018, 09:20 AM
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You know you have a great gun when every idea for it sounds good you can't go wrong at this point .My vote is don't worry about appearance spend the money on getting internals 100% and working up a 1 hole load .Why? Glad you asked. There is no look of disappointment like the look of disappointment when a guy with a nice new very expensive semi custom automatic gets out shot buy a guy with a 255 $ gun named Rockatansky . Maybe have the name engraved on the back strap .Rockatansky lol thanks man I needed a laugh this AM
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:58 AM
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I too would fix the innards, oil the outards, and just enjoy it as it is.

I actually prefer a 686 or GP100 over the 28-2. Something about the feel or balance works better for me. But I'll never let my 28-2 go.
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:59 PM
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My mind's made up now: Fix innards and the rear sight, keep the Herretts just cuz they were cheap, and maybe parkerize if I'm not comfortable I've got to all the rust. If I can get the elevation loose, I'm not even gonna change the blade, just leave it as is for some character. I forgot to mention that besides the carry up and push-off problems, when the hammer's down after pulling the trigger it's locked up pretty good. No perceptible fore/aft movement and just a hint of rotational play.

Thanks to gdogs and another member who PM'd me for the heads-up on the grips. I'm glad I didn't attack them with a rasp! Although everything I've seen in a quick search indicates that Sanderson's were only made of wood, and these look like plastic to me.

I was wondering about the history of this gun too, especially now that I found out that the grips were favorites of serious shooters and lawmen like Col. Askins.

daddy bear, I didn't mean to imply that troopers had it easy, just that they didn't have to worry so much about every ounce of gear that starts to weigh on you after a lot of walking. Most of us I'm sure know Bill Jordan called the 19 "a police officer's dream", but the N-Frame guns are a lot easier to shoot.

I'm also a fan of the sleeper theme, whether in cars or guns. I'm sure Rockatansky has the inherent precision for 1 1/2" groups at 25, I just need to get some new glasses, cuz despite my love for lasers on SD guns I ain't putting one on this puppy!
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwt1405 View Post
Les, for some reason his post, and that revolver, made me think of you.

Hey, Dave.... A couple of years ago I had a project 28-2, and did a thread on it. There are some explanations in there that look at some of the same problems you may be experiencing with your project.

Here is a link to the thread, hope there are some ideas that might help!!
New to me Highway Patrolman...Next to the Last, Almost Final Update, Sept. 10th, 2016

I was very pleased with the results of my project. Granted my gun was in a little better shape to start with, but just as an example, it had push off which needed to be repaired,

Best Regards, Les
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:44 PM
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Thanks for the link to your project, have it bookmarked.

Here's some bigger pics of the grips that came on mine, if anybody's interested. Like I said I'm pretty sure they're plastic.

The first three are from when I first got the gun, before any cleanup.



Next three are trying to show the material displaced by the wood screw and an unfinished edge.



Interesting change in colors, no? For the fumbling photogs like me out there, I thought this was interesting: Here's a couple pics taken minutes apart, same camera, same settings, same lighting, etc, just with different backgrounds.


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Old 07-05-2018, 03:06 PM
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Robar does an awesome "pinto" treatment with their finishes. Without all the pitting this one might make a good candidate...but if you removed all of the damage it might be a K frame
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:54 PM
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I think I would just clean it up and fix the push off problem. But I do appreciate the ideas and effort you have already put into it.

Walt
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:15 PM
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Everything about those grips look like wood to me. N frame Sandersons can be hard to come by, though more so in the combat variety than the target/thumbrest styles. I wouldn't recommend attempting to fix them, can do more harm than good if you don't know what you're doing. They'll bring a pretty penny just like they are - especially considering they were free
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:25 PM
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Default The $255 Highway Patrolman

I think that your $255 Highway Patrolman is excellent. Shoot it as is if functional or make it a project.

Here is my $300 Highway Patrolman. Bought this off a local forum. Met the seller in a West Charlotte Cracker Barrel parking lot. This thing was in good mechanical but terrible cosmetic condition. Light coating of fine surface rust but no real pitting. It was particularly bad on the backstrap. Likely had been carried outdoors in the rain.

I took it straight from the parking lot for a tear down, new bead blast blue finish, and had it round butted. The bead blast blue looks much like factory finish on some Model 28. Added some DX Factory Combat grips...and here it is:






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Old 07-05-2018, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
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I think that your $255 Highway Patrolman is excellent. Shoot it as is if functional or make it a project.

Here is my $300 Highway Patrolman. Bought this off a local forum. Met the seller in a West Charlotte Cracker Barrel parking lot. This thing was in good mechanical but terrible cosmetic condition. Light coating of fine surface rust but no real pitting. It was particularly bad on the backstrap. Likely had been carried outdoors in the rain.

I took it straight from the parking lot for a tear down, new bead blast blue finish, and had it round butted. The bead blast blue looks much like factory finish on some Model 28. Added some DX Factory Combat grips...and here it is:






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I've got a Model 29 getting the same treatment right now. Found in a pawn shop and took a gamble. Mine was even spray painted black! After stripping the paint, it had too many pits to polish and blue correctly so I got out the worst ones and my gunsmith has it now. Hope it looks as good as yours when I get it back. If it does, I'll own a beauty with not a heck of a lot invested
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Old 07-26-2018, 03:18 AM
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Sorry for abandoning the thread, but as the saying goes my life has been a lot more interesting than I generally care for lately. Good news is it looks like I still have a job and a place to stay and a somewhat reliable car.

And we're moving...

After some searching online I concede that the grips that came with the pistola are indeed Sandersons. I thought they were plastic because they're very light, "tink" when tapped, and the way the pulled-up area looks didn't seem like wood. I found some for sale that look almost exactly the same, with stamped numbers and that imprint that looks like an "I" in the upper interior. Jig mark? Even the way the checkering stops short of the border was identical. They had a different number stamped on them and were in almost pristine condition, and were/are listed for $600. Then again, the same site is selling a .38/44 EMPTY BOX for $850.

There is a mystery surrounding the numbers, which are different on every set of Sandersons. My wild guess is that they were related to the order number of the grips, not necessarily the order that they were made but maybe the last 2 digits of the invoice or something like that.

I'll be putting these up for sale just the way they sit. I'll try to figure out a price in the good-guy range and offer 'em first to the guys who pointed out what they were before putting them in the marketplace.


Random Wall of Text break:





Work on the gun itself has been postponed until the finances stabilize a bit more. I knew I had a spring kit stashed somewhere, found it in storage, also thought I had a leftover N-Frame hammer but couldn't find it. Installed the new mainspring and the middle-power rebound spring and the trigger pull got a lot heavier, but it didn't help the SA sear engagement, in fact it seems to have gotten worse.

The Rock had been on duty as my HD piece, but then I got to worrying about potentially getting some California transplant prosecutor in the aftermath of a defensive shooting, possibly making an issue of the "dangerous hair trigger", so I went back to the Victory Model. Six for sure, then go for the carbine if the S continues to H the F.

Sent this pic to the fam as "Rate my setup", like the tech-savvy say about their sophisticated computer rigs.




Perhaps more so than the ballistic advantage of .357 over .38, a big reason I wanted to use the M28 was because I didn't want to lose the VM in case it didn't get returned after a SD shooting. It's not the dollar or sentimental value, it's because I feel a certain stewardship responsibility with the VM that I never had with any other firearm, even the post-war Garands that I've owned.

Anywho, got some speedy 125 gr .357s on order, will probably take the HP out at least one more time to see where they print before putting it into semi-mothball status. Have to spend more $$ on .45s to try to get the XD-S broken in, maybe even to the point that I trust it. At least the 73 year old .38 goes "bang" every time I pull the trigger. Although none of the reviews floating around the web mentioned it, folks on an XD forum said the XD-S should start to smooth out and run well after 500 rounds or so. Jeez! Wouldn't be such a problem if the local range didn't prohibit reloads, but dang shooting factory stuff is expensive!
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Old 07-26-2018, 06:24 AM
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Wow, that old girl has seen some hard times! But it is looking pretty cool now. I think it would be a great candidate for parkerizing or bead blasting.

The rear sight blade with the right side broken off looks exactly like the one on the Model 15 I was issued when I joined the local Sheriff's Office back in 1980. I later became a S&W revolver armorer and found that to be a common occurrence with LE sidearms.

I actually started out my LEO career back in the late 70's with a 6" Model 28 and later switched to a 4" version as it was easier to carry. The finish on both guns got a little worn from being carried, so I had them worked over by F. Bob Chow in S.F. during the early 80's.

I foolishly sold off the 6", but I ended up giving my dad the 4", which he still has....



I had him take it out of the safe recently and saw that had a small bit of rust forming on the rear sight from sitting in a pistol case. I took care of that right away.

I recently found a nice 6" (For $449.95) down at the local shop and brought that home with me:



It came with the rubber grips (Which is exactly what I had on mine back in the day), but I replaced them with the grips that came off my original 6" when I got her back in the 70's....


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Old 07-26-2018, 07:27 AM
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I would get a hammer and trigger set and clean up the insides well. It sounds like rebound slide is gummy or spring is weak. On the timing. Does the dun have much end shake? Press cylinder to rear and slide largest feeler gauge possible between cylinder and end of barrel, then repeat holding cylinder as far forward as it will go. Subtract measurements. If more than .002 its to much. End shake can cause poor timing. Get some shims and install looking for .001 end shake. If that don't fix timing you should get a new hand fitted. If only 1 or 3 chambers are slow you could peen their teeth.

I would take off the grips and soak the whole gun in a tub filled with transmission fluid and kerosene 50/50 for a couple days. That will loosen any rust or crud and may well free up your rear sight.

Finish. Remove grips, rear sight assy, hammer and trigger. Install side plate. Plug both ends of barrel and the opening for hammer and trigger with silicon caulk. 1/4" deep or so let harden. Take it to a sandblast booth with glass beads and Have at it until it is pretty uniform. Parkerize or rust blue. Rust blue. Find a big box or make one of wood. Make a stand using a dowel that goes in the muzzle and holds the gun up. Stick in a light with a regular light bulb about 60 watts and a wash cloth that is damp with saltwater. Leave the gun in there a day or 2 until is light brown with a light coat of fine rust, wipe it off with real fine 0000 steel wool. Stick it back in box again. Keep doing that and wiping it off with the fine steel wool. After about 10 times or until the brown is real uniform after the steel wool wipe down. Then, stick it in a pot of boiling water for a 1/2 hour or so, this will darken the brown to blue/black and fix it, then oil it real good. It won't fix the pits, but the glass bead blast will help the surface look more uniform. I bet you will be surprised by how good it comes out.

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Old 07-26-2018, 11:59 AM
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You might find it worthwhile to do as another poster suggested and reach out to Robar. They have a solid reputation, and can do the mechanical work and some kind of finish that will at least halt further deterioration. Sell the grips and you might have a good start on the work.

Alternative - reach out to member BMCM, who has started doing gunsmithing. I had him RB my 4" M66 - great work, and too cheap for his own good.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:59 AM
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Ospho makes a rust inhibitor that will stop rust in its tracks. I used it on a tool box that was on a pickup on the gulf coast. I painted it after using ospho rust inhibitor and put it on a new pickup. The rust never came back or broke through the new paint. I now use it on gates and gate posts, implements, and tractors. Since the finish is already non existent I would paint it with the inhibitor and let it dry. Then remove the rusty crud and repaint it once more for good measure. Let that dry. Then bead blast it. I would favor Parkerizing if it were mine. As for the innerds, I would do the kerosene/transmission oil dip mentioned previously. Replace the hammer or trigger which ever is the offending part. I would use a spring kit with a slightly lighter mainspring but would not go much more that a pound or two lighter on the mainspring. I would replace the rebound spring with the one supplied in the kit. The rest is depending on how confident your gunsmithing skills may be. The end shake can be corrected by stretching the yoke or using spacing washers. The hand can be fitted from an oversize hand from power custom. I would also check the throats with pin gages and slug the barrel. As for the 125 grn hollow points....I would skip them in favor of a good cast simiwadcutter. I use to trap and used coyotes to test hollowpoints on. The 125's left a lot to be desired. Good luck on your project and thank you for sharing it with us. What ever you decide to do will be right for you. That's all that matters.
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Old 08-08-2018, 07:50 AM
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OK, I'm back again, sorry to keep leaving you folks hanging.

Some of y'all got a lot better deal than I did, I think! But like's been said, I got a functional gun at a rock-bottom price. Still kinda flabbergasted at the Sandersons, looks like on a good day I could get more for them than I paid for the gun mit. Might have to re-write the thread title to The -$35 Highway Patrolman.

steelslaver, that rust blue sounds like a great idea. It's right up my hobby alley, something I can do in an apartment closet that will look nicer than I deserve. Is that what one would call "an old-fashioned rust blue"? I'm thinking I could even use a heavy/reinforced cardboard box, just have to find a place to get the gun blasted cheap.

The piece had already been completely taken down, thoroughly cleaned and de-rusted with Evapo-Rust before posting. The only thing I didn't get off was the rear sight assembly, I thought that the de-rusting treatment would loosen it up but it had the opposite effect. Still haven't gotten around to trying it again since the OP, but have hit it with the Kroil a couple more times but don't let it sit & soak since the gun is still on standby for ready use. I realized vibrating the screws was pretty useless considering that Kroil is supposed to get into gaps a millionth of an inch wide. Seems to me that the ATF/kerosene thing would be better for a more time-consuming treatment of guns that've been rusted shut, provided you put the gun in a sealed container.

General Flunky, from what I've read Ospho doesn't remove rust, it converts it to iron phosphate as a base for painting. (I seem to recall that "Parkerizing" is a basic phosphating process that was invented for the same reason, as a base for other finish work.) It would mean that I wouldn't have to worry about a hidden speck of rust getting missed by the bead blasting, but also more expense. Think I'll just hit it with the Evapo-Rust one more time before blasting and doing the rust-n-rub process. Looks like I'll have some time to get caught up on the chores & projects, my current schedule has 3 days off a week.

Also found this in an Amazon review, just an FYI:

"I shared my discovery with a friend and he pointed me to the data sheets for this and Klean Strip’s “phosphoric prep and etch” product. They’re identical—each are 45% orthophosphoric acid. The difference however is that Klean Strip’s product is $16 per GALLON, making it less than a QUARTER the price of Ospho."

Your testing on critters is very good info. The classic lightning bolt .357 Magnum round for decades has been the Remington scalloped jacket 125 grainers, representing the ultimate one-shot-stoppers. But we all know bullet technology has marched on... I did a good bit of research and picked bullets that have been shown to stay together and penetrate, not just blow up in 10" of jello. (Gold Dots.)

That brings up a point that always confounded me: Almost all gun guys will espouse rapidly expanding bullets as the only acceptable thing for SD, "energy transfer" or whatever, but then those same people in hunting threads will say how you have to have a solid bullet that can penetrate. Seems to me that stopping, say, a 180 pound deer isn't that far removed from stopping a human assailant. To my mind the main reason for expansion isn't a bigger wound channel or "energy transfer", it's to limit penetration to minimize danger to people beyond your target. Subject for another thread I think.
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:21 AM
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Good name for the gun. In the original Mad Max from 1979, the carry gun of Max Rockatansky and several other Main Force Patrol officers was the Model 28.
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by charles_the_hammer View Post
Good name for the gun. In the original Mad Max from 1979, the carry gun of Max Rockatansky and several other Main Force Patrol officers was the Model 28.
Holy Moly, as much time as I spend on imfdb I never realized that. And there I was feeling creative! I really lurve it now.
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:58 AM
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That brings up a point that always confounded me: Almost all gun guys will espouse rapidly expanding bullets as the only acceptable thing for SD, "energy transfer" or whatever, but then those same people in hunting threads will say how you have to have a solid bullet that can penetrate. Seems to me that stopping, say, a 180 pound deer isn't that far removed from stopping a human assailant. To my mind the main reason for expansion isn't a bigger wound channel or "energy transfer", it's to limit penetration to minimize danger to people beyond your target. Subject for another thread I think.[/QUOTE]

On a game animal the goal is kill and recover to process into food. A hole on both sides gives better opportunity for a blood trail. More penetration is better.

With people you want them to stop doing what caused you to feel justified in shooting them. You don't want over penetration because you don't want to hit a bystander. Less penetration better there but you need BALANCE of enough penetration hence lite fast bullets that expand more than what you want on a deer.

That is basic but should get the idea across.

Back to original thread - I like this project. I would pay a good pistolsmith to fix the internals since I'm not mechanically inclined. I would have it roundbutted since that is my preference, bead blasted and then some type finish to protect it from further rust. On a similar project I did just that. My gunsmith had another customer who did plating for down hole oil field equipment. Finish is a straw colored looks like the nickel Colt used to put on 1911 pistols. Not beautiful but it doesn't rust. Wish we still had access to that plater. Bobbed the hammer spur but can be carefully cocked for a deliberate SA shot. Mine was a Texas DPS trade in w almost no finish. In its early days w me it ended up hitting the ground hard then up under a car. Fished it out made sure it would cycle then finished up addressing the problem. Fortunately didn't have to shoot. Long story but my then wife had acquired a secret admirer who wasnt leaving wine and flowers. Guards at our office building were walking her to her car when i wasnt there plus we had a break in at the house. Anyway after revolver getting buggered went to unload it and cylinder wouldn't open due crane being sprung. Since I was pretty hyped up called the smith and he talked me through taking it apart while still loaded. Took it to him in a zip lock bag. While it isn't pretty and not collectible it is one heck of a working sixgun. Also having a good gunsmith for your best friend is a good thing.

Good luck on your project. Hope it turns out well. You have a chance to make that old M28 into exactly what you want it to be and you will never feel bad about modifying something some people see as collectible that ought to be left factory original if that matters to you. My gunsmith started doing the same thing to other folks revolvers. Folks call it a "GEM" job for the package name but his customers who also know me know it is a "JIM" job package. 1st time I was at the shop and a customer brought in a S&W that needed some gunsmith love and asked for a GEM job package I told my smith I wanted a royalty payment. Darned if I didn't get one too - a good cigar and a tumbler of good single malt.

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Old 08-09-2018, 03:51 PM
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There are minimum and maximum preferred penetration levels in ballistic gel (and the specs for the gel are very detailed) when it comes to defense against humans, and those specs do involve some compromises that generally will not come in to play when dealing with dangerous game. The gel penetration testing is a repeatable means of predicting what a bullet will do - not a perfect simulation, because bone, muscle vs. fat, etc. will all impact real world results. Even with all that, no qualified person actually recommends using a pistol if a rifle is available. A pistol is what one carries when there is no reason to expect a problem. It is chosen for convenience, not effectiveness.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by codenamedave View Post
The long promised write up: Meet Rockatansky.



I always thought it was silly when people would name inanimate objects, but this one just struck me that way.

Before I get into it, I want to say that I really shouldn't have been buying anything when I got this. I have bills to pay and need to start saving, and there are other firearms-related things needing funding, like contributing to the forum or getting a history letter for ye olde M&P V765425. Like a lot of posters, I blame you guys!

"The 4" N-Frame is the most ruggedly beautiful revolver in existence."
"N-Frames are the ultimate .357s, and will stand up to Magnum loads forever."
"Any N-Frame is worth at least $400."
"The Highway Patrolman is the classic, and classy, working man's Magnum."

So yeah it was rusty and the seller said the timing seemed to be okay and it was sold as is. The Buy Now! was something like $325 and nobody hit it! What can I say, I'm a sucker for a cheap project. When I first saw the listing, my thought was to install one a them fixed sight conversions and an aftermarket lanyard loop, give it a park job and some magnas or even service stocks, and come up with a moniker like Cold War Victory Model, or Nuclear Victory model.

hm, that grip screw looks like a counter-sunk Phillips. Is that what I think it is?



Yes. Yes it is.

At least Mr. Bubba broke off the tip so it wouldn't lay open your hand when you fired it. The worst part is that the threaded escutcheon is still there, somebody just thought it was better to use a wood screw than try to find a regular grip screw.









Aye, air's a wee bit o frosting, oota buff up nicely. Ever notice how a gun will look okay in natural light, but then a flash makes any rust jump out at ya? My favorite part was the burr on the muzzle, apparently from being dropped, that bent over enough metal to form a hook. When laid on that side on the poncho liner, when you picked it up the burr would snag the cloth and pull it up. That and a dent on the front sight blade were smoothed down with the file on my Leatherman.

The timing is not "okay". Did the finger drag single action thing, no lock-up. Tried it with empties in the chambers, much better, only barely happened on a couple chambers. Normal cocking speed w/o dragging the cylinder let it lock up every time. The cylinder would always have complete travel in trigger-cocking mode, no matter how slow I pulled the trigger, and the action has that buttery smooth Smith feel that a few thousand rounds can produce. Some searching for the carry up problem turned up a few folks, none from here, that said the solution was to bob the hammer and make it DAO! Well, I guess that's one way. One strange thing that happened after a rust removal bath & general cleaning was that the single action problem got worse. Now when I pull the trigger easy with the hammer cocked, when it breaks the hammer pushes the trigger forward as it lowers, it doesn't "fall" per se. It's like the trigger becomes a hammer-dropper. Pressed quick, the SA trigger trips the hammer normally.

After looking around for parts, I found out that the fixed sight thingies were for later frames, and this one would need to be drilled & tapped. Also the only bolt-on lanyard loops were the ones specifically for Hogue grips, and wouldn't work for factory type stocks. As my mind wandered, I thought about a midnight Ceracoat job for that Big Black Nasty Mutha look, maybe with some Altamont Bateleur Silverblack grips, then I thought about doing something weird, like making it white or red or some such. Eventually I started to dig on the Mad Max vibe, and I had to give it a name.

I hate thumb-rest grips, and the ones that came with the gun have filler behind the back strap, not good for my medium sized hands. The seller didn't know who made the grips, he even thought they were made of wood. Didn't notice the writin' on the port side panel until I looked at the pics; Police evidence case number? I figured whittling them down would jibe with the post-apocalyptic esthetic, but I would need to remove a ton of material, there was no guarantee they wouldn't be loose and shifty, and I'd still have to buy a proper grip screw.



Handwritten numbers on grip:
2009-63577
189-01

Did some shopping around for grips, found some from the online auction guy who has T-Grips in stock. They're supposed to be Herretts, they have a S&W medallion, fill in a bit behind the trigger guard but not the back strap, came with a screw and were only $33. I dismissed any Altamont grips, including their magna style "Classic Panel" grips, because despite being very affordable they just looked too good! I'd have to do the Hollywood prop department age/distress thing so they'd blend.

Here it is after an Evapo-Rust treatment with bronze brushing, could use another such treatment (or two). I need to un-stick the elevation screw, it would move a couple clicks before the cleanup but now it's like the Evapo-Rust stuff welded it in place. I've soaked it with Kroil, vibrated it, let it rest and came back at it again, without being able to budge it. The windage screw works despite the battering but it prints low, like 5" low at 7 yards with the only .357s in the LGS, PPU 158gr semi-jacketed HPs.







"From butter-pecan to blackberry molass' "



The new shoes feel pretty good, I was surprised to find that my thumb and social finger overlap all the way to the first knuckle. I could do without the last bit of trumpet-flare on the bottom, but they work.


About that forever diet of Magnum loads:



Forever is a long time.

As to comments about why anybody would want an N-Frame when there are so many .357s out there that are more compact, efficient, easy to carry, etc, here's my take.

I never even fired one before I got this 'un. My first handgun was a 6" 66, I'd shot rented/borrowed 629s, and I've burned a few pounds of powder in a 4" 625 that was my PPC and sometime 3-Gun competition gun for years. I took the rust-bucket 28-2 along just for SNG, before doing any work on it, when I was going to wring out my chosen ultimate CCW gun, which turned out to be a Jam-o-matic even with FMJs. (XD-S if anybody's wondering.)

Feeling rather frustrated, I pulled out the big old crusty rusty fella with the handles I couldn't stand, loaded it up and wondered what new horrors might await me. Had ten odd leftover .38s, 110 gr JHP +Ps, got rid of them first. The cliché "mouse fart" loads came to mind. Then I sent off a box of Magnum rounds like butter, with the expected blast and flame, but in that package they hardly bounced the gun at all, felt completely comfortable. Whereas full loads in the 66 felt like my old 440 Dodge Charger, and +P .38s in a lightweight J-Frame felt like an evil-handling V-8 Vega, with the N-Frame .357s I got the image of sweeping up an on-ramp in a 500 inch Caddy. No pain, just a smooth rush of power producing a relaxed "ahhhhhh".

Yeah it's the old easy to carry vs. easy to shoot balance we all have to find for ourselves. If'n I was a revolver-totin' lawman back in the day who spent almost all his time in a cruiser, as opposed to walking a beat or being a concealed carrier, then I think the 28 would be my choice over a K-Frame. Kinda sounds like the job of a Highway Patrolman, doncha think?
I have the twin to that one.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:26 PM
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Recently saw a gold plated Model 28-2 that belongs to a friend...

Absolutely looks unfired. S ser number from mid 60s maybe.. Match

ser number on magna grips too... Trigger, hammer, sights are CCH or factory blue.

Absolutely ugliest 28 l have ever seen..
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:59 PM
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I love N frames and carry one every day as a CCW.

I'd have bought yours if I saw it!

I'd have gone a different route, just cleaning it up, fixing the timing, but otherwise leaving it alone. I like guns with some mileage on them.
I AGREE...I don't do shiny...However...My Model 52 is the newest and shiniest S&W I own...and it's a great shooter..

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Old 08-15-2018, 06:35 AM
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So I decided against firing it anymore until I got the push-off cured. Bought the cheapest hammer I could find, it's inbound, if & when I get the mechanicals fixed I'll get another update. Still haven't got the sight loose, that's bugging me more than the SA problem, since I seriously doubt the sight'll be on for the new ammo. To my mind one of the biggest reasons for speedy rounds is the extended point blank range, gotta be able to adjust for that. Time & money.


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Recently saw a gold plated Model 28-2 that belongs to a friend...

Absolutely looks unfired. S ser number from mid 60s maybe.. Match

ser number on magna grips too... Trigger, hammer, sights are CCH or factory blue.

Absolutely ugliest 28 l have ever seen..
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