Hello everyone

I have a Smith and Wesson Model 66-1. I was wondering if the forcing cone was to crack on this revolver could it be repaired? Could I send it back to Smith and Wesson to fix it?

Sorry if this question has been asked before. The overall condition of the revolver is solid, but I just know that the forcing cones on these were prone to crack.

Thanks
Allan

I don’t know if Smith still has barrels for a 66-1, but there are always plenty on eBay. Any decent mechanic can install it for you. I have a NEW 2.5” barrel I am sitting on for a rainy day.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM, Allan.....

IF CAUGHT SOON ENOUGH, THE BARREL COULD BE SET BACK A TURN, OR PERHAPS 2, AND REFACED. THEN THE THROAT COULD BE RECUT. I DOUBT THAT THE FACTORY WOULD DO THAT TYPE OF WORK. IMHO---YOU WOULD BE BETTER OFF UTILIZING THE SERVICES OF A SKILLED GUNSMITH. AN OUTFIT THE LIKES OF CYLINDER & SLIDE COULD HANDLE A JOB LIKE THAT.....

A LARGE CRACK COULD BE V-CUT AND TIG WELDED, BUT I WOULD NOT TRUST THE REPAIR TO LAST.....

I WOULD SUGGEST A COURSE OF ACTION TO AVOID THE PROBLEM ALTOGETHER. STICKING TO A DIET OF .38 SPL TARGET LOADS IN YOUR GUN, WILL PROLONG ITS LIFE INDEFINITELY......

RESIST THE URGE TO MOVE UP TO HOTTER AMMO FOR SD/HD. JIM CIRILLO, FAMED GUNFIGHTER OF THE NYCPD'S "STAKE OUT SQUAD", ARMED HIMSELF EXCLUSIVELY WITH FULL WADCUTTER .38SPL TARGET AMMO IN HIS SERVICE REVOLVER. SO ARMED--HE KILLED 11, AND INCAPACITATED MANY OTHERS, IN 20 DOCUMENTED FIREFIGHTS, IN THE COURSE OF ALMOST 300 SHIFTS, OF HIGH RISK STAKE OUTS....

HIS BRAND OF AMMO WAS WHATEVER THE DEPARTMENT WAS USING AT THE TIME TO TRAIN THEIR RECRUITS......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I have several thousand rounds of 38 as well as heavy duty 357mag.in my 66-1 no problems whatsoever

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

Buy a spare barrel right now and stash it in the back of your safe. Murphy’s Law says if you don’t do this your FC will crack, but if you have a spare barrel you will never need it. Call it cheap insurance.

Froggie

This right here!

This is exactly how my luck works!

While barrel changing isn't particle physics, the idea expressed above isn't exactly true. The "decent mechanic" needs certain specialized (expensive) tools and knowledge to perform the job without possibly destroying your frame.

The old books showing idiots using hammer handles through the cylinder window are the equivalent of the phrase "hold my beer and watch this". May work, but the possible downside is massive.

OP, if you use the search function you'll find numerous threads on this subject. New, unused barrels in .357 are pretty much like hen's teeth.

Welcome to the Forum

Decades ago, I too believed the urban legend of the epidemic of K-frame Magnum forcing cone cracks. What did I know, I was young

So I acquired a replacement barrel for my 66 and my 19

They have sat in my workbench for more than three decades while I have put tens of thousands of 357 Magnum projectiles down range.

I can not understand the mindset that we should only use something sparingly because it can break

Do you keep a spare transmission or engine around for your car in case it breaks? Do you not carry your cell phone because you might drop it? Of course not.

Millions of K-frame 357 Magnum revolvers have been sold over the last 6 decades. You would be hard pressed to find a non gun smith/armorer that has personally seen more then one or two. The dedicated members of this forum might also be an exception

Our State Patrol had just under 2000 of them. Shooting only 357 Magnum I only recall two cracked forcing cones over the years. I actually only saw one of them

Shoot your gun with any ammunition you want, if/when it fails then repair or replace it.

As a long time shooter of several model 66 revolvers, I've been curious about how frequent the cracked forcing cone issue has actually been. Quite a bit of evidence out there turns out to have been anecdotal, and seems to have taken on a life of its own over time. Documented failures stem largely from light bullet/hot loads, and not standard .357 loadings using 158 gr bullets. That being said, there have been forcing cone failures - just not with the frequency one might hear at the local club. Like Kennyb and Colt SAA, I've sent a good number of 158 grain bullets down range atop full power .357 loads with nary a problem. Certainly not a big enough problem to stockpile replacement parts for my guns. Just sayin' . . .

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ol' country Jim

Just refrain from shooting 125 gr , or lighter bullets in 357 magnum loads and you will be fine . It was designed for 158 gr or heavier . The reason for the longer cylinder was to accomodate the " Keith 173 gr swc " (Lyman 358429) crimped in the crimp groove in 357 magnum cases . If you try that combination , you probably won't go back to anything else in it . For yrs I have shot , 7.0 grs of Unique , 7.5 grs of WSF or 13.5 grs of 2400 using that bullet in 357 cases with complete satisfaction in my model 19's . I have never found those loads , " lacking " . Regards, Paul

Only way to fix it is replace the barrel as I did on my 19.

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S&W Accumulator

X 1000000. In all the years I’ve been shooting S&Ws and talking with other shooters I’ve seen three barrels on 19s cracked at the forcing cone. I’ve seen as many cracked aluminum frames, two cracked steel frames, and two barrels “blown off” of frames - one from a J-frame and one from a K-frame. All kinds of things can ruin a revolver. Ratholing barrels you may never need only takes barrels off the market that may be needed elsewhere. It’s far more important to be diligent about keeping the gun clean, which will help to avoid cracking the forcing cone - and make the gun run better in general, too. JMHO.

THIS IS GREAT ADVICE ! ! ! THE LONGER YOU WAIT, THE SCARCER THESE BARRELS WILL GET......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

This barrel cracked in June 1996 I think. Bought a barrel-made frame blocks and fitted/changed it out my self. Hardest part was getting the barrel pin out.

BTW This gun has never saw a 110-125 gr load. It cracked with cast bullets.

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S&W Accumulator

That's how everyone's luck works! My .38/44 Outdoorsman had a spare barrel and cylinder with it when I bought it. The original owner thought he'd possibly shoot out the original 6.5" target barrel, so he bought them shortly after buying the gun. They're still new, and the original barrel and cylinder look like new too.

I had a 66-1 6" crack in 2011, sent it in and it came back as a 4"(that's all they had). $192.. also w/ new hammer and trigger.

When I shot PPC matches extensively, I saw lots of cracked forcing cones in guns that only ever had bunny fart wadcutter loads in them. They had tens of thousands of those, though. Before that, my only match gun was a 6" M19 that I shot everything with for 3 years. Probably had around 90 to 100 thousand rounds through that one, mostly .38 target loads, but plenty of 170 and 180 grain .357 mag. for Metallic Silhoutette and 125 gr .357 mag too. That one never did crack, was still going strong when I traded it for something else. Don't remember the trade.

I think some will crack and some won't and there is no way to tell which is which ahead of time. If the forcing cone cracks, replace the barrel. If you keep shooting one with a cracked f/c, it will crack the frame too.

My solution was to go to L and N frame for high use and heavy loads and K frame for .22 and .32.

Thanks everybody for the helpful info. Yeah I just read some about it and was a little concerned. It's a great shooter. I think I will stick to 158 grain bullets in 38 special and 357 magnum. That Keith 173 grain bullet sounds interesting. Might give it a try.

I think I'll be on the lookout for a replacement barrel too.

On more than one occasion, over the phone and by email, S&W has told me to limit the .357 use in my K frame magnums. They said to shoot .38 and carry .357, with a very occasional 158 grain .357 down the tube if I felt the need. They said they do not have replacement barrels.

I never chanced it. 99% .38 special. Maybe two cylinders a year of target 158 grain .357. They both make the same hole in the paper.

The Keith 173 grain bullet was designed for loading in the 38 Special, and will be too long if loaded normally for the .357 Magnum. The accepted solution is to deep seat it. This allows it to chamber, but takes up powder space (probably not a problem) and requires that you crimp over the front driving band, not a crimping groove. I tried this and did not care for the results, and ended up getting rid of the mold.

I don't know why this mold continues to be popular. I would suggest getting one of the many 150 to 160 grain semi-wad cutter molds available (there is absolutely nothing special about the "Keith" mold).

The K frame I carry, my dads old duty model 19 has thousands of magnum rounds through it. It still shoot them all the time. Forcing cone looks great

Warren Sear is not correct : The Keith 173 gr swc will fit just fine in your 19 . At least it has in mine for eons . Now in the " N " frame , " No " it will not fit and has to be seated in either the 38spl case or deep seated in a 357 magnum case . Load up a dummy round , see for yourself . In regards to only shooting 357 " occasionally " I disagree with that as well . The factory ammo of today is , in my opinion not near as hot as the stuff from " yesteryear " . 99% of my shooting in 19's and 66's has been 357 magnum loads , Still just as tight and right as the day I bought them .
As far as shooting the " Keith bullet " and being something special . In my shooting , it always has been more accurate . I have a whole drawer full of 357 molds in the 158 -160 gr range did deliver only " fair " accuracy for me . The reason for trying other molds , is that my Lyman 358429 " Keith " mold is only a 2 cav, and I had to get Lyman to realize that it was undersize . They finally agreed and re cut it to proper dimensions . So casting with it is a bit slow compared to an alu 4-6 cav mold . I just finished casting up over 200 bullets with it . I sell off the others when I can , but will always keep the Keith bullet mold . Regards, Paul

The above is the only bullet I use in all my 357's. Rifles and pistols. Pushed by 13.5 grs of #2400. I really like it. I like the long bearing surface. Which I believe aids in accuracy.

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S&W Accumulator

First, don't go looking for trouble. The odds are extremely small that you'll ever have a cracked forcing cone. To read this forum, you'd think that every other 66 gets the crack. It just ain't so. Compared to the total number of those guns in circulation, the percentage that ever develop the crack is tiny, tiny, tiny.

Second, if it ever does occur the only real, practical, reliable, affordable way to fix it is a barrel swap.

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Pisgah

The K-frame S&W 357 Magnums really were not designed for a life of firing magnum loads. The idea was that 38 Special's would be used for practice and magnum loads fired for familiarization and carry. It is possible to damage the K frame 357 with long term use of magnum loads. Magnum loads using bullets lighter than 140 grains seem to be the worst offenders.

As to repairing a cracked forcing cone, replacement of the barrel is the answer and S&W is not likely to still have these on hand. As I see it, the K-frame owner has a couple of options. Either find an unused barrel and store it or treat your revolver kindly. I treat my 19-3 kindly.

I like option # 3. Buy a replacement barrel AND treat your K frame kindly.

There are a couple of .357 K frames here at the house: a M19-4 4" nickel and a M65 3". Neither gets shot much.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!