Found a 14-3 at a local pawn shop in somewhat sad but fixable condition. It's a 3T gun but it operates in single action only. I have a couple of theories why, but I had heard rumors that S&W had made a few single action only 14s for Bullseye competition. Can anyone confirm this? I'm pretty certain of the answer but I need to be certain.

I understand the same. Got any photos? Just how sad is it? I'm sure an expert will be along soon and explain the single action only phenomenon. Standing by...

From about 1961 until 1978, S&W made a Single Action Only variant of the Model 14. Those guns extended from the 14-2 through the very early days of the 14-4. The company also sold a conversion kit as an aftermarket product. An original SAO Model 14 can be verified by letter.

In addition, some (many?) Model 14 revolvers were converted by the owners to SAO operation. They do turn up from time to time.

Here is a pic of the end label for an SAO Model 14-3:

__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Well that answers that question. Thank you Jack. Now I have another. On the SAO guns, if you pull the trigger like it was a double action, do they still rotate the cylinder or do they operate like a true single action and do nothing?
Barbsaurus, I don't have pics yet, but I think I'm going to pick it up tonight. It's in the 5K serial range, the frame is covered in rust speckles, one stock panel has a large chunk missing and overall needs a bath in solvent to get all the crud off of it.
Anyone have any suggestion on how to get the rust off without harming the blue?

The cylinder turns, the hammer does not cock back.

Take the stocks off and soak the gun in ATF for a few days. Then wipe it off with a soft, clean rag. This will remove a lot of the surface rust.

__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Awesome. One thing I have plenty of is ATF. Thanks Jack.

Easy enough to tell the "correct" SINGLE ACTION ONLY, simply pull ( cock) the hammer back and look down the front of the hammer and see if there is a slot cut in the front of the hammer, it should be solid' if there is a cutout ( slot) most likely someone just simply removed the double action fly (strut)

__________________
dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA

What was the competitive advantage to having the gun operate SAO? Did removing the DA strut make single action shooting somehow better? Or was it due to Bullseye rules?

__________________
"I gots to know"

Well I picked it up this evening. The hammer does not have a slot cut in it so it is definately supposed to be SAO. I was able to get most of the rust off with some flitz polish and elbow grease. Here are some pics. Even though the rust came off, the spots are still there.
So now the question that is just begging to be asked...
How do the values of the SAO 14s compare to the traditional DA 14s?

Attached Images

	20181017_221427.jpg (52.8 KB, 55 views)
	20181017_221435~2.jpg (53.4 KB, 55 views)
	20181017_221516.jpg (95.2 KB, 55 views)
	20181017_221524.jpg (114.9 KB, 50 views)

Unfortunately, having the correct SAO hammer does not prove it shipped from the factory as an SAO revolver. The conversion kits sold by S&W in separate packaging contained correct SAO hammers. Absolutely the only way you can verify a factory SAO Model 14 is by obtaining a letter from the S&W Historical Foundation. If you request one, be sure to specify that you are trying to ascertain whether it shipped as an SAO revolver.

__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

It's got to be to improve the SA trigger, because there's no rule against shooting DA (in NRA bullseye anyway) Some of the dying breed of revolver bullseye shooters did (or do) shoot DA in the rapid fire strings. If you shoot rapid in SA, it's quite a challenge to cock the hammer, line up a target 50 yards away, and get off 5 rounds in 10 seconds at a less than 3 1/2" 10 ring. And you'd have to cock the hammer with your shooting hand, because you can't touch the gun with your off hand at any point.

The SCSW 4th Edition states, "Single action only variation worth 25% premium if verified by factory letter." That is Jim Supica's opinion.

It might be correct, but the first one I bought was purchased for a song - approximately $100 less than I would have expected to pay for any Model 14-3 in similar condition (95%).

My second example was purchased about a year later. It is an ANIB example and I paid the going rate for a 98% Model 14-3 with box and all the bells and whistles.

In other words, I didn't pay a premium for either of them. Granted, the first seller had no idea what he had. But the second guy knew exactly what he was selling.

So, there you have it.

__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Timed and Rapid fire stage are fired at 25 yds. Only slow fire is shot at 50 yards. Scoring rings, however, are same size as the 50 yard slow fire stage.
Nonetheless, still a challenge. You can learn 80-90% of the game with constructive dry fire practice. Five shot strings shot SA with a metronome set at mm=60 is a good regimen. That's one "click" on the metronome every second. Cock and fire every four clicks for timed fire, same thing every two clicks for rapid fire.

I don't know for sure, but I've heard the SAO hammers reach full cock with a slightly shorter stroke than a conventional hammer. That's the advantage.
Anyone ever check their SAO 14s for this feature?
Jim

You're right of course. What bullseye shooting I've done is on a 50 ft indoor course. I tried in practice a couple of time with my Ruger Single Six, and quickly went back to my Volquartsen Scorpion.

The benefit derived from a REAL SAO K-38 (either from the factory or converted with the S&W kit) is a faster "lock time"----as implied by the nomenclature applied to what we (erroneously) refer to today as a single action K-38-----a "short action single action K-38"----20% shorter/quicker than the regular post-war action (if I recall my measurements correctly)---which in turn is shorter/quicker than the pre-war version.

It is of noteworthy benefit to those few who can shoot better than their guns can----and does no harm to the rest of us who think we can.

Ralph Tremaine

It is perhaps noteworthy that simply removing the DA sear makes a single action, but not a "short action single action".

With the zero - marginal increase in value that a factory letter would bring, the expense and effort is just not warranted. 99% of the time you can tell if a sideplate has been removed if you have a jewelers loup and know what to look for, but I haven't had time to do this yet. If it has been taken apart I may just install a double action parts set in it and enjoy it.