Hello, Have enjoyed reading this forum for years and can usually find what is needed by searching, unfortunately this time keep coming up short. Recently acquired a shooter grade 10-6 (1978). Engaging the cylinder release would not allow the cylinder to releases and open, have to force it hard to open, the extractor rod is noticeably bowed. Under the extractor is clean, extractor rod center pin have been replace several times now, wrong size parts from Midway, Numrich order is when I discovered center-pin has a different length after the shoulder for 10-6. Acquiring the correct center pin used part appears to be long and will not close, rubs up against locking pin shroud. This seems wrong being a used part it should just drop in. So what am I doing wrong or missing before I start using a file to shorten? Thanks much

Usually the ejector rod is loose and needs tightening but if you have been replacing parts then I don't know.

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No life story has happy end.

What Doc said. Be sure the ejector rod is tight. If it is bent, either straighten or replace.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

It's possible the center pin will need to be fit to your particular extractor rod and front locking bolt parts.

To check to see if the center pin is the correct length, remove the yoke and cylinder assembly from the gun....then remove the yoke. Place the cylinder extractor side down on a flat, inflexable surface like a countertop or bench block, and push the cylinder down fully onto the extractor. With the cylinder assy pushed fully down, check the position of the end of the center pin at the muzzle end of the extractor rod. When the cylinder is fully depressed, (center pin pressed fully in) the end of the center pin should come flush to the end of the extractor rod cavity, or perhaps just a bit above.....004 - .008" above.

If it comes too far out, material will have to be removed from the end of the pin to make it flush with the extractor rod end. If the pin is too short, you'll need to purchase a new pin the proper length, and fit it properly to your gun.

This is one of those parts interfaces that requires individual fitting, and substituting a used part may not always work properly. Definately not a "drop in" location.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

If following above directions correctly and the original is short and the replacement long, slowing removing material until hitting that sweet spot may remediate my failure to release?

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If your original center pin is very close but is too short, it can be replaced with one that is longer.....the new longer one ( if too long) will need to be shortened until it is even with the end of the extractor rod when the pin is fully depressed in the assembly....as I described in post #4.

Another possible remedy, would be to use your existing center pin, but shorten the extractor rod in the assembly instead. This can be done by stoning (removing) material from the extractor rod collar. Removing material (a bit of overall length) from the rod collar will shorten the assembled length of the extractor rod itself.....which will accomplish the same desired end, that being, to bring the end of the center pin flush with the end of the extractor rod. (when the pin is fully depressed)

The remedy used in the repair depends on how far out of spec the center pin is. If it just needs to come out a few thousandths more, then you can remove that material from the ex. rod collar. If the pin is very short, you'll have to replace and refit the new pin.


Extractor rod collar:




Extractor rod collar shown in the assembly: material can be removed from the collar to shorten the extractor rod in the assembly if necessary. This only shortens the OAL of the extractor rod when in the final assembly, and does not effect the center pin OAL. Be sure to remove the material by rubbing the collar on a good quality flat stone. The collar ends need to remain flat.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

When you push the cylinder release, is it fully depressing the extractor rod center pin?

Yes, it has full range of motion, considering age and knowing the take down figured on replacing the spring and pin but the replacement parts sent by Numrich must be for a newer K because the pin is much smaller and spring bigger. So original parts got checked for function-clean-lube and dropped back in.

Another issue that can cause hard opening and closing is end shake on the cylinder or yoke. Have you checked for excessive end shake?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Just want to acknowledge the generosity of armorer951 in sharing his extensive experience and skill. It's becoming more and more rare to find folks like this these days. Besides, I don't have any similar problems but it sure is neat to learn from the solution offered to another member. This is a great group of people.

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ol' country Jim

Just want to say that yes, I'm very appreciative of ARMORER951and his wealth of knowledge he is sharing here, without this information he has provided this revolver would just end up on the shelf gathering dust. With his guidance provided I'm working the stone this morning. Started with the collar, then the center pin, now the extractor rod. Pictures added later. Also a big thank you to everyone that is contributing to this thread.

Project update; after working the stone cylinder will release-open, shall we say somewhat grudgingly. As mentioned above in this thread the more material removed seems to create end-shake but it is the ability for end shake that allows the cylinder to open. Would taking more material off smooth the opening process or just further the endshake without improving the existing or root cause? Another option is always to send it off to "my guy" and have it done right, and maybe have that from sight milled off and install a fiber optic dovetail. Back story Model 10/13 is what we used on the job, upon retirement took advantage of the Glock Blue program but its just not for me going back to what I know best and that will be a 10/64.

Working on the front locking bolt, extractor rod interface will not have any influence on the gauge between the cylinder and the yoke. If there is excessive end shake, then you can use shims to correct the end shake between the end of the yoke barrel and the yoke cavity in the cylinder. See post #9.

With the cylinder closed and empty, measure the front barrel cylinder gap with a feeler gauge. After measuring the B/C gap, pull (hold) the cylinder back and measure the B/C gap again. The difference between the two measurements is your "end shake" on the cylinder.

If you have excessive end shake, over .002", then you will need to repair that before the issue with the center pin is addressed.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer