Model 28-2, how bad is this forcing cone wear?

[reaper556]

I got this model 28-2 for next to nothing a while back.

What surprises me about it is that given the tank tough build of these this one exhibits two traits that my others don’t have. The cylinder in this one has back and forth movement and side to side and rotational movement in the cylinder.

I figure it has had a truckload of hot ammo through it. Does this forcing cone look above average for wear? Is this thing salvageable otherwise?

[SAFireman]

The pictures aren't that great. To me, it looks like it could use a good cleaning.

The play isn't too bad an issue and can be tightened up by a competent smith.

You are close to where I used to live. If you don't want to mess with it, I would be happy to take it on

[bgrafsr]

Cylinder end shake and cylinder rotational movement can be easily corrected. The forcing cone does not look that bad, but with the right tools it could be cleaned up.

[reaper556]

Here’s a couple more pictures. It’s hard to get a good shot of that area with good lighting.

[andyo5]

Not bad at all. Looks minimal. A high level of erosion will show cracks developing.
I'd advise finding out what load is causing the erosion and stop using it.
I have found that .357 loads with Blue Dot promote erosion in my guns. I have discontinued using it.

[reaper556]

Originally Posted by andyo5

Not bad at all. Looks minimal. A high level of erosion will show cracks developing.
I'd advise finding out what load is causing the erosion and stop using it.
I have found that .357 loads with Blue Dot promote erosion in my guns. I have discontinued using it.

All that was done by a previous owner. I actually have never fired it at least not yet as I wasn't sure if it would spit lead with the looseness it has.

Most likely going to send it to S&W and have them tighten it up unless that's not the best idea or place to have that done.

[rubiranch]

Originally Posted by reaper556

Here’s a couple more pictures. It’s hard to get a good shot of that area with good lighting.

I'm far from an expert but the forcing cone doesn't look like any kind of an issue to me.

I'd love to be the one to clean that for you.

[rubiranch]

Originally Posted by reaper556

Most likely going to send it to S&W and have them tighten it up unless that's not the best idea or place to have that done.

I would ask around to find a competent local gunsmith.

S&W would be the last choice for me.

[stonebuster]

A little hard to tell from photos but it looks like a lead build up inside the cone. I'd try a good cleaning to de-lead the forcing cone. Some side to side rotational movement is OK as is some endshake but you probably know that already. I'd shine a bore light down the barrel and see how each chamber lines up with the barrel. I've got some Model 10s with rotational play and some end shake short of excessive that function perfectly.

[k22fan]

It still has tolling marks from the reamer that was used to cut the forcing cone. If the erosion was heavy they'd be gone. However, in pictures the roughness caused by erosion can be mistaken for a dirty cone.

Have the yoke stretched or add end shake washers and install an over size (extra thick) hand. That's a basic tune up. My guess is that it will shoot fine. In the worst cast the barrel could be set back one revolution and a fresh cone reamed.

[Lou_the_welder]

Looks good to me. I wouldn't worry.
Close up so others can see.

[bigggbbruce]

So where's the picture of a bad forcing cone? Haven't seen one so far..

[ameridaddy]

I'm no gunsmith, but what the guys above said all make sense.
I don't see flame cutting on the top strap, so I doubt it's had too many hot loads as much as a bunch of loads.
That looks to me like a very dirty barrel that needs a good soak and scrubbing, maybe over several days. The cylinder no doubt needs lots of the same. You'd be amazed how much lead, copper and soot get hardened into everything around the barrel/cylinder gap on an old gun like that without regular cleaning. Shine it up, then take another look or send updated pics for further comment or advice.

[cmj8591]

Nothing with that barrel that a bronze bore brush and some elbow grease can't fix.

[reaper556]

Thanks guys for all the information. I'm going to clean it up and ill repost pics for sure.

[gasaman]

How much do you want me to give you for that problemed model 28 be sent to me?

[reaper556]

Originally Posted by gasaman

How much do you want me to give you for that problemed model 28 be sent to me?

Well the guys above made the price go up for sure . I was given this to forgive a small debt ($400) someone owed me but absolutely couldn't pay in any kind of a timely manner. He knew I had a weak spot for S&W's and bringing home strays

I don't have but one other well used revolver ( a J frame) the rest of what I have hasn't been fired really any so I couldn't judge if this one was clapped out or still above the bar.

[Narragansett]

Originally Posted by rubiranch

I'm far from an expert but the forcing cone doesn't look like any kind of an issue to me.

I'd love to be the one to clean that for you.

You will get it back with plenty of wax on it

[Narragansett]

Well, I for one would like to see the top strap at the forcing cone and the recoil shield. Beyond that, clean it good, and put a few 38 specials through it at a target. The forcing cone looks ok to me.

Unless you have a good gunsmith, I would be OK sending it to Smith for repair. I might imagine they are slowing down at the moment.

[reaper556]

Originally Posted by Narragansett

Well, I for one would like to see the top strap at the forcing cone and the recoil shield. Beyond that, clean it good, and put a few 38 specials through it at a target. The forcing cone looks ok to me.

Unless you have a good gunsmith, I would be OK sending it to Smith for repair. I might imagine they are slowing down at the moment.

Here you go. Sorry not the best pics probably

[growr]

Wouldn't do a thing with it other than a good cleaning and then go shoot the dickens out of it and repeat.

Randy

[Narragansett]

Originally Posted by reaper556

Here you go. Sorry not the best pics probably

The recoil shield looks like it has been shot a bunch, but the top strap from what I see does not show a lot of flame cutting. I would clean it and try it out

[Old_Cop]

Clean it up, and let SAFireman help you. The repairs are not difficult for a person familiar with S&Ws.

[ggibson511960]

You have a pretty good gunsmith resource just inside BW-8 on Lumpkin St. Briley's is reknowned for their shotgun work, but they do everything. I have used them for odds and ends with good results, and they could easily clean up the M-28. I concur with the opinions that all is well, but the pics don't show what the eyeball can see in real life. I can't tell if that whitiish ring is erosion and pitting or built up lead. Either way you will wear out before that M-28 does. Take notice how thick the barrel shank is ahead of the cylinder. It's not about to fail or split. FWIW, I used to shoot nuclear level loads through my M-28 in my younger days. Nothing fazed it except bullets with exposed lead on the base. Vaporized lead would eventually build up all over the forcing cone area and require a scrubbing. It's still tight. Wouldn't do that with a few other .357's I could name.

[Neversink n Klapperthal]

nothing serious at all

[reaper556]

Originally Posted by ggibson511960

You have a pretty good gunsmith resource just inside BW-8 on Lumpkin St. Briley's is reknowned for their shotgun work, but they do everything. I have used them for odds and ends with good results, and they could easily clean up the M-28. I concur with the opinions that all is well, but the pics don't show what the eyeball can see in real life. I can't tell if that whitiish ring is erosion and pitting or built up lead. Either way you will wear out before that M-28 does. Take notice how thick the barrel shank is ahead of the cylinder. It's not about to fail or split. FWIW, I used to shoot nuclear level loads through my M-28 in my younger days. Nothing fazed it except bullets with exposed lead on the base. Vaporized lead would eventually build up all over the forcing cone area and require a scrubbing. It's still tight. Wouldn't do that with a few other .357's I could name.

I do remember seeing Briley the other day actually when I was at dresser rand for work. Is S&W not really recommended much due to wait times or is it their work on these older revolvers not trusted anymore?

[k22fan]

If you trust the local gunsminth then it's just a matter of cost or convenience. Your shipping it to S&W by private carrier is about $45. It costs an FFL $20 or $25 to mail it USPS but they need to be paid for their time. Also if you use an FFL since you would not be the carrier's customer if it gets lost in transit only the FFL can pressure the carrier to find it or pay for the loss. I suggest starting by calling S&W for a quote.

[H Richard]

I'm pretty sure that S&W will no longer work on a revolver of this vintage. It might my imagination, but I see a slightly different bevel at the forcing cone, and I think the original owner may have had the forcing cone re-cut. It shouldn't have any bearing on your using it.

[Lou_the_welder]

My 29-3 has been at the factory for about a month now.
They even sent me a FedEx slip to send it, with the understanding that if I denied work done after, I was to be charged $45 for the return of my firearm.
So I paid nothing to send it in. And am waiting on their estimates for the work to be done.

[Muley Gil]

Start by using a Lewis Lead Remover to clean the forcing cone and the bore.

[Pisgah]

Clean it. It's fine. And unless the cylinder fore-and-aft and rotational play is excessive -- that's normal, too. A revolver has to have a certain amount of each to function, and an N-frame .357 would be the very last one I'd expect to develop problems, except maybe an N-frame .38.

[reaper556]

Originally Posted by Muley Gil

Start by using a Lewis Lead Remover to clean the forcing cone and the bore.

Thanks for that tip. I'm going to order that tool from brownells

[k22fan]

I've used Lewis Lead removers since the early '70s but have mostly drifted away from them. Tufts torn off solid copper dish scrubbing pads wrapped around a bronze bore brush are at least as effective and are quicker to use. In normal times it would be quicker to pick up Chore Boy pads than to wait on Brownell's. The pads being less expensive does not hurt. Take a magnet to be sure any pads you buy are not copper washed steel.

Fine bronze wool pads are great for lighter duty scrubbing. Most Ace Hardware Stores have them in the paint department. Brownells also has them as do yachting supply stores around marinas.

[mh51]

I'd go shoot it first, and then decide if it has problems.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it! A good cleaning is needed, but if the face of the cylinder doesn't bind against the rear of the barrel, and you don't have any misfires, the endshake is probably acceptable. And some side to side rotation of the cylinder is normal. And if it does have a small problem, it can be easily fixed.