I’ve got a Model 66 that I’d like to send to Springfield for one of their “packages”.
I can’t decided if I want the Master package or the Combat variety.
Besides the difference in cost and the fact that the Combat version includes bead blasting, which package would you get?
What are the technical differences (not cosmetic) between the two?
TIA

I think it depends on the use of your gun. The combat pkg is a clean smooth trigger but not quite as light as the Master, but designed to be 100% reliable. The master is a wonderful smooth light trigger, but as with all "match" triggers they refined to the point that constant use will cause them to possible fail, because they have been stoned to the ultimate. I had a master on a Mod 19 some years ago, and after about 4 years of pretty steady use it developed push-off. I was able to re-stone it and keep it going, but I wouldn't trust it for self defense.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Some recommendations if you are going to send your revolver off to S/W Performance center:

1. You can piece together packages as well. If cost is not a factor and you don't do revolver work yourself, you might as well get a few other things checked and done in order to have a very nice tuned pistol

2. The "Master Revolver package" includes a trigger stop, which you may or may not need, the Combat package includes a bead blast finish, which you may or may not want ( I love a bead blast finish in combination with a high polished finish on hammer and trigger).

3. Just remember these "Packages" are designed as they state, a "package". Kinda like a Chevy Z71 dealership package, sometimes an individual does not need a Z71 decal sticker but...its included in the price. When in reality all the individual wanted was a 4x4 with limited slip, 3.73 gear differential as opposed to a 3.42 gear that comes standard.
You can always come up with a list of work you want performed, contact S/W performance, and see what the price will be, then compare that price to what the packages offer, and go from there.

- List of things you want should probably include: Complete action tuning, check and reset cylinder gap, check yoke for runoff, hone/ream cylinders (very easy to do yourself though). Check crown, check barrel alignment, anything else is shooter preferences that are asthetic.

I'm not disagreeing with "H Richards" in above post, but my experience is that any action tuning (referring to stoning and action work) done by a professional, doesn't equate to premature wear unless Heavy usage or competing scenarios are at work. That boils down to the parts usage. Every part has a maximum cycle of operation number, its mechanical, eventually all parts can and will wear. Revolver parts wear...metal on metal means eventually gaps and tolerances will cause out of spec occurrences.

If it was me, I'd go with the Combat action package, and add a few "Please check..." in the write up to S/W. EXCEPT...make sure you like a bead blast finish...or tell them to exclude it and now you have a cheaper price, or spend that extra money on Yoke run off, check and shim any wobble, check/recrown,

Hope it helps...

Thanks for the detailed answers!
I’m not sure if all that information helps or just adds to my confusion!
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