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06-30-2020, 06:25 PM
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Heavy Barrel on a 10-7
Hey guys, I'm sorry if this has been asked:
I have a 3" HB off of a M13-3. Dont ask me where the gun is, believe me, I asked. An outfit has some M10-7 RB frames for cheap. Now I know 10-7s had pencil barrel and snub barrels. Supposedly these were snubs. I have heard that HBs dont go well on these, but I have never seen any data that supports this claim.
But ya see, I have this barrel, and I paid mere change for it. And I have this desire for 3" HB K-frames with round butts. I dont have the wallet for them though. So this would give me what I want for dirt cheap.
So can I put this 3" HB on a 10-7 RB frame and have a functional, accurate revolver?
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06-30-2020, 06:43 PM
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Have a look at the photos of this .357 Magnum bored to .45 Colt with a model 25 barrel:
Need more info on my Pre 25
With the wide rib and bull barrel, the sides will overhang the frame for the tapered barrel (seen slightly on the .45) and there will be a more pronounced mismatch between the wide top rear of the barrel and the tapered frame.
A good alternative would be to put the barrel on a model 10-6 or -8; the factory did that itself with the latter.
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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220
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06-30-2020, 06:43 PM
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SWCA Member Absent Comrade
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No expert and somebody may come along and correct me again but I think the top strap/rib on a taper barrel frame does not match properly with a heavy barrel. And vice versa. Looks ugly.
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06-30-2020, 06:46 PM
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I think you'll have excess barrel cylinder gap between the shorter 38 cylinder and the barrel stub intended to mate with the longer 357 cylinder.
A) install a 357 cylinder
B) Do you have a lathe to turn back the barrel shoulder?
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06-30-2020, 09:41 PM
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I have a lathe, but no experience doing this, so I will pass. I can get a .357 cylinder, no problem.
I need to find a trashed Model 14 frame too. Homebrew S&Ws are gonna be the end of me.
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07-02-2020, 10:00 AM
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I bought a couple of those. For $150 per, it was a decent deal. I picked up 2" and 5" barrels and I'll get my gunsmith to put them together sometime in the near future.
For anyone else interested, the store is J&G up here in Prescott. Now, buyer beware, they are very rough cosmetically and the grips are very worn, so if you're looking for pristine, these ain't it. But the price is right for a project or even for parts.
As was said, the frame IS tapered at the barrel end to fit a standard, tapered barrel. These were 2" guns and have the short ejector rod from that length setup. I just happen to have a longer rod, so my 5" will be outfitted properly.
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07-02-2020, 11:52 AM
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I fitted a 4" heavy barrel from a Model 64 to one of these frames. It took a little machine work and looks a little oversize at the junction but it shoots great and will be my new truck gun when I'm finished. I might do a creakote in black.
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07-02-2020, 11:33 PM
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My LGS had three of those revolvers come in the other day. I looked them over and didn't think they were bad. It seems the 2" barrels are in very short supply, as in I couldn't find any listed for sale. I would like to see some of these being posted here with alternative barrels.
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Kevin in Oregon
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07-03-2020, 04:03 PM
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If such a piece had enough interest to me, I would get the stuff you mentioned, ship it to BMCM after a design chat, and drive on. I am sure he can do the work to blend the junction. This would be a fighting gun, on which I have the rear sight trough opened up and mount an XS tritium Big Dot. Traditional cosmetic considerations of the type mentioned are of no importance at all in the serious use world.
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07-03-2020, 05:22 PM
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Here is my 10-7 with a 4 inch heavy barrel. If you zoom in a little you can see the lines at the barrel/frame junction are off a little at the top. This doesn’t affect anything though and the gun shoots great.
Now if you were going to fit a model 13 barrel to a 10 frame you would have a slight issue. The 13 barrel is too short for the 10 cylinder. You would need to find a 13 or 19 cylinder to also install. Fitting a cylinder is a little work, you need to make sure it’s timed, has the proper endshake, headspace, barrel to cylinder gap and make sure it’s aligned with the barrel. It’s not very difficult but my first one had me scratching my head for a while until I learned the relationship all the different parts have with each other.
Here are my 10-8 and 64-5 that I converted both to 3” 357 with new barrels and cylinders
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Last edited by Dieseltech56; 07-03-2020 at 05:25 PM.
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