If memory serves me I bought this new in 1985
It's a model 29-2 nikkel plated with a 8 and 3/8 barrel.
Still have the original grips in near new condition since I replaced them with pachmayer rubber grips shortly after I bought it. Always loved that gun. On here I see different presentation/ storage boxes serial N469989
Guess I need to polish the gun some since it lost some of its luster Truthfully I haven't shot it in the last 20 years,guess life got in the way as well as other hobbies. What is the year of manufacture?
According to wikepedia it's been manufactured between 1977 and 1978. Also what is it's approximate value?
Thanks in advance
Art

20200828_040649 by simon Beemsterboer, on Flickr

1977-78 appears to be correct. I wouldn't care to try to price it. I'm sure somebody more knowledgable than me will drive in with that. Do you still have the papers, accessories, etc? How about the outer box. Those, plus the grips, would add substantially to the value for a collector.

Well the condition of the nickel looks pretty rough. I would try and polish it but be very careful you dont polish it through the nickel. Is there any pitting or flaking? I would personally put the value around 600-700, although some may disagree. Hopefully you can get it looking shiny again, post pictures if you do.

I believe 1981 was the last year for the 29-2 so if you bought it new in 85 it had sat around for a while. Does look to be in need of some cleaning and polishing. Value is anyone's guess. The longer the barrel the lower the price. In that condition my wild guess would be $600 or so. New in box like $1,200.

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No life story has happy end.

I find the best place to see what a gun is worth is to go to the auction sites like GUNBROKER..There you will get a good idea of what guns are really being sold for..Because it doesn't matter what some expert or book tells you it is worth,,It is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it..And it also goes the other way too..In my younger and dumber days I checked the used gun value books thinking I was going to walk right into a gun shop and pick me up a good condition Colt SAA for book price!!!!,,,I guesss the dealers didn't read the same books I did,,BTW- I didn't ever get a Colt SAA for book price!

The nikkel plating is undamaged just dull from age. Don't think I got it with a paper box wrapped around the display box. Got the stock grips stored they are in new condition. Like I said I took them off when I first got the gun. Still have thew manual and the lil screw driver, the cleaning rod and brush is floating around my house somewhere. Anyway this hasn't been shot as much as some of my others, but has a very nice trigger double as well as single action, for double action shooting I used to shoot 44 special. Anyway part of the reason I stopped shooting it was they closed my favorite open shooting areas like around 1989. Shooting a 44 magnum in an indoor range is somewhat frowned on. Also life got in the way as well as other hobbies. Now seemed like a good time to renew my interest in this hobby, loaded a batch of 44 special and 44 magnum up for it so as soon as the weather cools a lil I'l make her roar again as well as my 357, did well on steel plates at a distance with that one

Did a lil bit of cleaning of the gun seems to bring the shine back, what would be the best product to get her to shine? Happy with the results so far did a quick rub down with some turtle wax car polish, cleaned the case a lil and found all the original paperwork, you save some you got some

20200828_174829 by simon Beemsterboer, on Flickr

20200828_174738 by simon Beemsterboer, on Flickr

OP,
One thing that might be a problem is leaving the Pachmayer grips on for an extended period of time. Moisture can get under them and cause rust and/or pitting. Hopefully, that has not been the case. Please show us pictures of the frame under the grips on both sides. Glitz polish is what I would use to try and make it shiney again. Go easy and don't rub too hard so you don't go through the nickel finish. After you have got it shining as good as you can, put one or more coats of Renaissance Wax on it to really make it bling and for some protection. Finally, put the original grips back on it and take more pictures to show us.

One thing I am kinda curious about. You are very lucky that the original blue flocking of the presentation case has not given up the ghost! That happens more often than not on a case of this vintage. From the look of it, it appears that maybe it was left open for many years and has an accumulation of dust on it. Cleaning it without ruining the flocking might be impossible. Not a big deal though since we have a forum member who can make it look like new. If you can get it looking like new again, it will increase in value substantially.

But first, show us under those grips. Thanks for showing it to us. We like seeing before and after guns.
Larry

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Just for you, and I know what you mean with the pachmayer grips, did that to the backstrap of my python. Luckily I managed to clean that without damaging the blueing. Anyway did learn something today keep hoppe number 9 or any gun cleaning solvent with ammonia away from the gun

20200828_183915 by simon Beemsterboer, on Flickr

20200828_183857 by simon Beemsterboer, on Flickr

20200828_184101 by simon Beemsterboer, on Flickr

20200828_184128 by simon Beemsterboer, on Flickr

Waaaaay more gooder with the original grips.

Do you have the cleaning tools?

Paper work etc?

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I have the paper work, even have the original sales receipt from when I bought it, I liked that gun store owner, however he is long dead. The lil screwdriver and cleaning rod I might still have just no clue were, was last seen in my house 30 years ago lol

Great-looking revolver, but the finish could use more work. Car wax isn't good enough to clean off the accumulated oxidation and crud, though. Try some Flitz metal cleaner and polish, and use an old toothbrush to apply it and scrub the nickel. Flitz is a green semi-liquid, and after about ten seconds of scrubbing, will turn almost black from the crud coming off the plating, Clean off the polish with something soft like an old diaper, then buff the finish with a thicker buffing cloth like you'd use on a car finish. That nickel should shine like the chrome on a '63 Cadillac when you're done. Once you get the finish back, don't use the Flitz for normal cleaning, it does have very fine abrasive quality, but you'd have to rub long and hard to really damage the nickel, unless it's almost failed already. Flitz can be used to clean and polish silverware, which is way softer than nickel.

I found a nice nickeled M29-2 a week ago, it was in similar condition; about 4 hours of work with Flitz has it looking like new. Another member here had recommended the Flitz.

Don't know where you learned that, but that is incorrect when it comes to S&W factory nickel finishes. Ammonia is a great copper solvent and decorative nickel plating and some gun manufacturers as well as aftermarket refinishers may apply a copper plating before plating with nickel. S&W never applied a copper plating, they applied the nickel directly to the steel or aluminum, so solvents that contain ammonia will not cause an intact S&W nickel finish to lift and flake. It may, however, seep under nickel that is already damaged and absorb moisture and that can accelerate the damage.

Would I allow any solvent to just sit on a nickel plated S&W? No, but cleaning powder and jacket fouling with Hoppe's No. 9 is not going to damage a S&W firearm.

How would I clean up a cloudy looking S&W nickel finish? First, a good cleaning with Hoppe's No. 9 or similar to remove any powder fouling. Then I would very gently, using a soft cloth, polish the finish with Flitz metal polish. No power tools! Hand polish only. Once polished, a coat of 100% carnuba automotive wax, S.C. Johnson Paste Wax, or Renaissance Wax.

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Thanks guys for the replies, flitz it is after I shoot it some