Saturday, I took a first date to the range! Since she had never shot a gun before I loaded my hog leg with 38 special and after putting it down 5 times, Katie finally pulled the trigger. The look on her face was priceless. Anyway after getting used to those light loads I suggested that we try some magnums. I grabbed some of my reloads and pulled the trigger. The first round was a squib. The round did not even make it out of the cylinder. The situation is this. I am confident that the primer fired since the bullet has moved into the barrel but has not cleared the cylinder. The cylinder has been forced into the cone. There is no physical damage to my gun that I can see. Does anybody have a recommendation how to proceed?

If the cylinder will not open, put the gun in a vise with the barrel pointed upward. With eye protection or better yet a face shield use a cleaning and hammer to drive the bullet out of the forcing cone back into cylinder. Remove and dispose of that round. I had this happen back in mid 70s where primer worked but powder didn't ignite.

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If the bullet is stuck in the barrel or in the forcing cone you can probably drive it out with a brass rod approximating the barrel diameter. Most of us reloaders have had this unfortunate experience. The first time it happened to me I took the gun to a gunsmith who took about 3 minutes to unstick the bullet. I figure that if he can do it, so can I.

Part two: The most likely explanation is that you had an undercharge, or no charge at all, in the cartridge. The lesson here is not to trust, but to verify, that each and every powder drop is accurate. There are a multitude of ways to do this. Keep reading.

Part three: Always be aware of this possibility. The effects of shooting a second round on top of a stuck bullet range from unpleasant to catastrophic.

Keep going. Be safe. And always be sure the bullet has left the barrel.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

I doubt this experience encouraged your date to continue with guns. A shame this happened when it did.

A hardwood dowel rod works good also.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

Just a tip, Ace Hardware carries brass rods of various sizes. I have a couple and fortunately haven't had to use one yet. To avoid this problem which is usually an insufficient or no powder charge, when I reload first, I weigh each and every charge, second I put each charged piece of brass in a loading block until I've filled the number of pieces that I'm loading, usually up to 50. Then prior to seating a single bullet, I check the entire block of charged brass and then and only then I begin to seat the bullets. This way I can see if there are any light or heavy charges. This way when I complete the loading I'm 99.9% the charges are correct. I don't have any fancy automatic loading set-up and use a turret press so I don't have to keep changing dies. Another tip is, if you're interrupted during the reloading process, pause and check everything before you begin again, especially if you're in the process of charging the brass with powder. Remember, you can never be too safe when loading!

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Ed

Use a brass rod close to the diameter of the bore. A couple drops of light oil, (kroil) then tap the round out back into the cylinder. Years ago I made up two rods, 38 &45 to carry in my range bag. I have only used it a couple times in 40 years, but have loaned them out many times.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I had success removing a squib load bullet from its jammed position by holding the gun firmly in one hand and using a plastic mallet (not rubber; the mallet has to have very little rebound, but be soft enough not to damage the muzzle finish) rapped the muzzle sharply. It works like an inertial bullet puller and the bullet travels forward into the forcing cone far enough that you can open the cylinder, then a light tap with a wooden dowel from the muzzle end knocks it backwards out of the forcing cone. Doesn't work if the bullet is lodged in the barrel, though, the brass rod technique is the best way .

In my shooting bag I carry a little brass hammer and several diameters of 10" hardwood dowels. Has saved my trip to the range several times.

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John

She's sticking with me!

To close this thread, the dowel method worked just fine. No damage to the gun. Not sure if I like the girl or the gun better.

Ouch....Keep the gun in that case...

Nice I've only need a squib rod a couple of times, but when you need one, you need one!

I made a couple of squib rods for my local range, with brass cases as a muzzle guide, and a small hammer. The pic cut off the tops but I think they are 10" long.

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Had this happen with my Model 19 back in the 1980's. Used a 5/16" phenolic dowel about the length of the barrel plus 1" and a rubber mallet to knock the bullet back into the case. Not a big deal really.

Ed, excellent advice. I know for sure that I rushed that batch of rounds. I work with a guy who also reloads and he peeks unto each case to make sure there is a powder drop. I had another squib the other day and will have to pull apart a bunch of rounds. Thanks, Jeff

Well here are the findings on my squib rounds. My date Katie was observing my reloading, she mentioned that there wasn't any powder in the hopper. I looked up and saw the static powder and shrugged her off. Apparently I was too busy observing her since I found more than a dozen cartridges low and empty. Uh, QC has gotten a lot tighter.

If she likes guns enough to watch you reload, and she's good looking enough to distract you that much while reloading, she sounds like a keeper to me.

Just be very careful around her, though. We have the 4 RULES to help protect us from our guns, but there are NO RULES that can protect us from the female of the species.

Of course, upon reflection, the 1st RULE and 3rd RULE can apply to women, too.

Women are great at so many things, while also being a joy to observe!

Maybe she should do the reloading

Great that you found your mistake. That helps in them not happening again.

This is your classic ... no powder , primer only load . The bullet gets stuck between the forcing cone and cylinder . Which can save a person who was not paying attention, from damaging his revolver . When the bullet passes the forcing cone and sticks farther down the barrel the newbe usually just pulls the trigger again . Count your holes and make sure they leave the barrel .
Range rod will drive the bullet stuck in the forcing back into the case so action can be opened .

Life Rule #1 - When the woman in your life tells you something ...
be it mother , girl friend or wife ... Listen to what they say !!!
Blowing them off isn't the smartest thing you can do .

Let her do the reloading ...then you can just sit and look .
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Along with your appreciation for Kate, I hope

BTW, I recently got a KMS Squared light kit for my Lee press and although it's still hard to see to the bottom of a .38 or .357 case, it is nice and BRIGHT

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No distractions while reloading right?

Maybe look at her outside of the reloading room instead......

Randy

Yes. Put powder in the case next time.

Kenosha? I'm from that area. Had/have relatives in Kenosha.

You must be really trying to impress her if you're letting her shoot your Model 19.

......and somehow all I can think of is that this is your first date and after a few rounds, you wanted to load it up with magnums....No wonder this was your 1,000 first date. To add: I'm not sure that I would consider a Model 19 a, "Hog Leg"! Match dot com awaits....

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

I needed one once for a squib lock up my my 4” 500. A couple light taps with a cleaning rod solved the problem. Loose crimp was the culprit.

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213th FBINA