Sticky cylinder

[Dougaz]

This is my absolute favorite engraved smith in my inventory but .........

The cylinder has to be pretty much forced open. Once it's open the release button is free and move easily. I tried to research this and found that this is a common problem with S/S frames.

When you close the cylinder, the lock up is great but it sure seems that something is rubbing against something else when you try to open the cylinder.

Any thought or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Doug

[6518John]

Check and see if the ejector rod is lose or not screwed all the way in. That sounds like the problem.

Tightening Ejector Rod in Revolver

[Hiram Jr]

Maybe the cylinder pin isn't fully retracting? Have you checked the b/c gap?

[Protocall_Design]

Maybe something has gotten in between the back of the extractor and it's seat on the cylinder?

[Dave.357]

I would check the ejector rod.
On your revolver it will be
Left hand threads, put a couple
Empty cartridges in it be for
Tightening it.

[captaint]

All great ideas. I would take them in about the order received myself. Be careful with the extractor. Let us know what it was. Mike

[armorer951]

Check the end of the extractor rod and the front locking bolt for burrs. Also, the center pin should come forward completely flush with the end of the extractor rod (or just a few thousandths beyond flush) when the thumbpiece is fully depressed.

[Oracle]

I had a similar issue on a 629 and did all the listed solutions. I finally removed the cylinder release button, and scrubbed the release button track and spring with an alcohol soaked Q-tip. I put a very tiny half drop of LSA on the track and the problem was solved.

[ken158]

A number of things can be wrong but being stainless steel is not one of them... armorer951 gave you good ideas.

[6518John]

Originally Posted by armorer951

Check the end of the extractor rod and the front locking bolt for burrs. Also, the center pin should come forward completely flush with the end of the extractor rod (or just a few thousandths beyond flush) when the thumbpiece is fully depressed.

A question if you don’t mind from a layperson who is by no stretch an armorer or gunsmith: you would do the above items before simply checking if the ejector rod has backed out?

[merl67]

Originally Posted by armorer951

Check the end of the extractor rod and the front locking bolt for burrs. Also, the center pin should come forward completely flush with the end of the extractor rod (or just a few thousandths beyond flush) when the thumbpiece is fully depressed.

If all other things are found to be ok this^^^
I have a model 36 that was sticky tried all the normal checks. Turned out the rod was binding at the front a bit of file work with jewlers file and a fine stone cured the problem, as was mentioned above the center pin needs to be just above flush with the end of the rod at rest mine wasn't...

[armorer951]

Originally Posted by 6518John

A question if you don’t mind from a layperson who is by no stretch an armorer or gunsmith: you would do the above items before simply checking if the ejector rod has backed out?

Actually no, but that had already been suggested. (see #2)

[6518John]

Gotcha. I understand now. Thank you.

[Dougaz]

Thanks for all the advise but clearly I need a good gun smith to handle this. I'll start researching S&W gun smiths here in Phoenix.

Thanks again,

Doug