Good afternoon gentlemen. My first post here! Can anyone tell me how I can determine if the finish on a particular 27-2 is original? Are there codes in the SN or something else to look for? Thank you.

No special codes in the SN, but if you post some good close-up pics I'm sure some could tell whether or not it has been refinished. I believe the sideplate is a good place to start looking - does the logo appear faded? Do the screwheads "blend" into it?
Also, look for finish wear in places it you would expect - high points, sharp edges, etc. And also if sharp edges are more rounded off in appearance.

Forgot to add, is it a nickel finish gun? If gun has a nickel finish and so does the hammer and trigger, odds are it has been refinished. S&W did not nickel finish those parts but are frequently seen that way on refinished models.

Welcome to the Forum!

If it is nickel, there should be an N on the cylinder and frame. Welcome. What finish do you have?

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

Thank you. What about the grips? Anything to look for with those?

Magna stocks should be numbered to the gun, target stocks are not. As far as the finish goes, if S&W refinished the gun, it often was stamped on the grip frame with an R-Bi or B followed by a diamond, or an R-N if refinished in nickel. If there are no marks like these, then the gun was not refinished by S&W.

Bill

Thank you gentlemen. I don't have one yet, but I am looking! Don't want to make any rookie mistakes.

Welcome to the S&W Forums.

As others have stated, a plated extractor star, trigger, or hammer are not factory original. Nickel plated Model 27's will have an "N" stamped into the rear of the cylinder and there will be an "N" stamped into the left side of the grip frame. Factory refinished revolvers will have stamped into the grip frame an "R".

Aftermarket refinishing can often be spotted by looking at the roll marks in the barrel and frame, the usually will not be as sharp edged as an original finish. Also, the very fine and sharp line between the side plate and the frame will often have slightly rolled edges, making the fine gap appear larger. Blued or plated hammer and/or trigger could either be a refinish or replacement parts.


Good luck and happy hunting.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Welcome from Illinois....with help here, you can avoid a lot of mistakes!

Best way to answer your questions :
Take a number of photo's .
Several angles and up-close shots of lettering and roll marks .
Close up's of grips , both inside and outside if you can remove grips .
Post them here with your concerns.

A friend has a 38S&W DA 4th model that I knew had to be reblued...
it looked way to "new" ... turned out ...it was original finish , just well taken care of ! I was shocked but the guy's know what to look for and I'm learning .
Post before you buy !
Gary

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NRA Member

Welcome to the forum "rookie!" You will find this forum is frequented by lots of very well-informed folks who take pleasure in answering your questions . . . for we have the passion for the firearms and love to see new people develop that same passion that we have!

The 27-2 is one of the "grail guns" of the S&W revolvers that most people dream of owning one day. Polished with a mirror-smooth surfaces, they were gorgeous in both the rich blued finish and/or the mirror nickle finish too! Checkering on the top strap areas made 'em the premium production line too.

Different lengths have been offered, and are preferred by different people to be used for specific types of shooting and uses., different widths of triggers were offered for different types of shooting disciplines/sports/defense, and shapes of grips offered too that would also be wanted for specific types of shooters/sportsmen. Alas, you probably already know this stuff. If not, you'll learn a lot here if you are hungry.

Mine pictured below is from the very early '70s, according to serial number, and it has the gorgeous proportions with the shortest, 3 1/2" barrel length. type, and included the narrower-faced but grooved trigger for smooth and fast double action shooting, and the sleeker/slimmed "Magna" stocks for fast draws and less bulk.

This version was quickest from the holster, and the thin and more rounded trigger was perfect for double action, long stroke fast shooting for self-defense.

The other barrel length versions came with the bigger/thicker "Target" type stocks and a wide but flat-faced "Target" trigger designed for more hand-cocked accuracy purposes. Great for all-around purposes including hunting and target competitions.

Later in the '70s even many 3 1/2" versions also included the wide triggers and bigger target stocks, thus narrowing my search to a 3 1/2" version to a little older Model 27-2.

So which type might interest you in your first 27-2? All are equally accurate, but different tools have different strengths!

PS: Mine arrived so danged perfect that it became an instant safe queen. I kind of wish it had had a scratch or too! LOL
[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/5091/5430389534_558acd3d39_b.jpg[/]

Welcome to the forum "rookie!" You will find this forum is frequented by lots of very well-informed folks who take pleasure in answering your questions . . . for we have the passion for the firearms and love to see new people develop that same passion that we have!

The 27-2 is one of the "grail guns" of the S&W revolvers that most people dream of owning one day. Polished with a mirror-smooth surfaces, they were gorgeous in both the rich blued finish and/or the mirror nickle finish too! Checkering on the top strap areas made 'em the premium production line too.

Different lengths have been offered, and are preferred by different people to be used for specific types of shooting and uses., different widths of triggers were offered for different types of shooting disciplines/sports/defense, and shapes of grips offered too that would also be wanted for specific types of shooters/sportsmen. Alas, you probably already know this stuff. If not, you'll learn a lot here if you are hungry.

Mine pictured below is from the very early '70s, according to serial number, and it has the gorgeous proportions with the shortest, 3 1/2" barrel length. type, and included the narrower-faced but grooved trigger for smooth and fast double action shooting, and the sleeker/slimmed "Magna" stocks for fast draws and less bulk.

This version was quickest from the holster, and the thin and more rounded trigger was perfect for double action, long stroke fast shooting for self-defense.

The other barrel length versions came with the bigger/thicker "Target" type stocks and a wide but flat-faced "Target" trigger designed for more hand-cocked accuracy purposes. Great for all-around purposes including hunting and target competitions.

Later in the '70s even many 3 1/2" versions also included the wide triggers and bigger target stocks, thus narrowing my search to a 3 1/2" version to a little older Model 27-2.

So which type might interest you in your first 27-2? All are equally accurate, but different tools have different strengths!

PS: Mine arrived so danged perfect that it became an instant safe queen. I kind of wish it had had a scratch or too! LOL

Original nickel Model 27 shipped 1960. Notes the letter N stamped on left grip frame.

Attached Images

IMGP0297.jpg (130.2 KB, 43 views)

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I don't think S&W stamps re-finished codes (letters/numbers) on gun frames anymore and haven't for quite a few years.

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Vietnam 1969-1971

Here is a link to a thread I started. There was discussion about whether or not it was refinished. Some good discussion and pictures that let to the consensus that it was refinished. There are some pictures you may find helpful.

Model of 1950, 44 Special?



Robert

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Robert
SWCA #2906, SWHF #760