Smith & Wesson Forum

Go Back   Smith & Wesson Forum > >

Notices

S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-13-2020, 09:27 PM
JayT75 JayT75 is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 2
Likes: 9
Liked 16 Times in 2 Posts
Thumbs down Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)

Good evening! I am brand new to the forum so I hope I am doing this correctly.
My sister and I are selling some of our dad's collection as he passed away 13 years ago. Today a guy called me about a SW Model 36-1 that he purchased from me on gunbroker. He said his FFL told him the gun is not all original parts. He is looking at the yoke and it has the Mod. 36-1 and also has 4481 on the yoke. The serial number is J615939.

I read on the forum that the numbers on the yoke are manufacturing numbers and have nothing to do with the serial number on the butt. Can someone look at the photos and tell me if he is correct or if we are correct? I really appreciate any help and advice. The first two photos on the yellow background are from the buyer, the two photos on the white background are ones my sister photographed.

Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)-img-1351-jpg

Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)-img-1348-jpg

Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)-sw-model-36-13-jpg

Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)-sw-model-36-01-jpg
Reply With Quote
The Following 9 Users Like Post:
  #2  
Old 10-15-2020, 10:17 AM
handejector's Avatar
handejector handejector is offline
Administrator
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,512
Likes: 2,633
Liked 32,896 Times in 6,152 Posts
Default

You are correct.


If your buyer removes the left grip, the assembly number 4481 will be stamped on the left side of the grip frame at the bottom.


This gun looks righteous to me.




Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)-img_cs-1-38-copy-jpg
Attached Thumbnails
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)-img_cs-1-38-copy-jpg  
__________________
Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Last edited by handejector; 10-15-2020 at 10:18 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-15-2020, 10:24 AM
armorer951's Avatar
armorer951 armorer951 is online now
SWCA Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Evansville, Indiana USA
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 286
Liked 7,331 Times in 2,505 Posts
Default

Welcome to the forum.

Your information concerning the factory "work" numbers is correct. The numbers on the yoke (4481) and on the frame under the grips are used to keep the fitted parts together during the fitting/manufacturing process. These numbers have nothing to do with the serial number.

The model 36-1 serial number J615939 dates to 1977. Looks like a great example of a factory nickel model 36 to me.
__________________
Ret LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Last edited by armorer951; 10-15-2020 at 05:02 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 7 Users Like Post:
  #4  
Old 10-15-2020, 10:44 AM
merl67 merl67 is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Northern Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,004
Likes: 2,257
Liked 2,436 Times in 880 Posts
Default

Welcome to the forum.Tell the buyer he needs a new FFL. That is a beautiful example of a Model 36-1 and is right as rain...If needed direct your buyer here for some education. I once sold a all matching Japanese Arisaka type 38 on Gunbroker I assumed the buyer knew that this series used an assembly number system and not the serial number to match parts. I directed him to a few online sources to confirm this. He sent an email a few days later apologizing for his previous email.
__________________
Randy
Reply With Quote
The Following 8 Users Like Post:
  #5  
Old 10-15-2020, 10:56 AM
LPD256's Avatar
LPD256 LPD256 is offline
SWCA Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 8,809
Liked 2,786 Times in 786 Posts
Default

JayT75-Welcome to the Forum. That 36-1 is a great little gun. The correct box and grips add value to collectors. Note that we have a Classified Guns for Sale area on the Forum that you might also consider if you have other guns you are considering parting with.
__________________
SWCA 3255 SWHF 615
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #6  
Old 10-15-2020, 01:35 PM
Erich's Avatar
Erich Erich is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: High Desert of NM, USA
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 6,169
Liked 6,586 Times in 2,003 Posts
Default

Say, tell your sister that those are fantastic photos.



And that was a gorgeous 36-1.
__________________
Now go make God proud...
Reply With Quote
The Following 5 Users Like Post:
  #7  
Old 10-15-2020, 02:21 PM
Babysitr Babysitr is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: southern illinois
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 707
Liked 1,283 Times in 519 Posts
Default

Welcome, looks to me like someone purchased a nice revolver there!
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #8  
Old 10-15-2020, 04:54 PM
peterdeb's Avatar
peterdeb peterdeb is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 410
Likes: 564
Liked 259 Times in 145 Posts
Default

Welcome!! That 36 is right as rain and I and others here would love to have bought it. Tell him to send it back and sell it here on the forum. You need a new FFL!
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #9  
Old 10-15-2020, 05:45 PM
JayT75 JayT75 is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 2
Likes: 9
Liked 16 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Thank you everyone! I did end up calling SW Customer Service yesterday and they said the same thing that you all did. We really appreciate the feedback from everyone. I will tell my sis that you liked her photos Erich! She will be happy to hear that.



We do have more SW to sell, we will definitely look at posting them here in the correct place for sales.


I know we are going to enjoy being on this forum learning from you all. Wish our dad was still around to keep educating us on his collection.
Reply With Quote
The Following 7 Users Like Post:
  #10  
Old 10-15-2020, 05:45 PM
steelslaver's Avatar
steelslaver steelslaver is offline
US Veteran
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central Montana
Posts: 7,869
Likes: 4,293
Liked 18,613 Times in 5,286 Posts
Default

The newer S&W revolvers do have the serial number in the yoke cut out. But as you just learned that was not always the case .

I have twice had FFL dealers go to writing assembly numbers from the yoke cut out on the form which of course is not the serial number and does not match the bottom of butt number.
Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Like Post:
  #11  
Old 10-15-2020, 05:56 PM
Zarr's Avatar
Zarr Zarr is offline
SWCA Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Western Massachusetts
Posts: 132
Likes: 4,377
Liked 173 Times in 70 Posts
Default

Welcome from Western Massachusetts.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #12  
Old 10-15-2020, 06:14 PM
StrawHat StrawHat is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 2,467
Liked 3,162 Times in 1,023 Posts
Default

Others have answered your question. Tell the buyer to send it back to you...and then get in touch with me!

Kevin
__________________
Unshared knowledge is wasted.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #13  
Old 10-17-2020, 02:05 PM
majortoo majortoo is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 31
Liked 24 Times in 10 Posts
Default

You are all very nice. Being the suspicious type, I was thinking that the buyer might have been trying to get a lower price.
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
  #14  
Old 10-17-2020, 02:22 PM
Pine_Worker's Avatar
Pine_Worker Pine_Worker is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 871
Likes: 1,198
Liked 942 Times in 395 Posts
Default

Most people seem to think an FFL is all knowing, they are not. Some don’t even know where the legal serial number is and use assembly numbers in a transfer. It’s a shame.
__________________
Pine_Worker
NRA Life Member
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-17-2020, 03:09 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
SWCA Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 16,274
Likes: 7,868
Liked 15,557 Times in 6,522 Posts
Default

Welcome to the forum!

Since you likely still have others to sell, here's a guide to where the serial #s are stamped depending on what vintage the gun is:


SERIAL # LOCATIONS & Assembly #s:

We owe the Russians a vote of thanks; having been the 1st to require multi-serial # locations on their S&W #3 contract revolvers.

Here are the 6 or 7 (Triple Lock models only) pre war fixed sight frame serial # locations which are also the locations remaining after WW II thru ~1956 to look for (not including the 3 stamped serial # locations for pre war and early post war Transitional models with pre war target sights, see below):

NOTE: Always use optical magnification including a flashlight when looking at or for serial numbers to observe the information accurately.
Observing a serial # for accuracy or even existence, especially on penciled stocks, requires an attitude that it is there!

1. Grip frame butt* (prefixed by a letter(s) following WWII) - or forestrap* on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt

2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud
3. Yoke - on rear face** (except the .32 Model 1896) only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight

4. Extractor star – backside (which is actually the side facing the muzzle).
5. Cylinder - rear face
6. Right stock only*** - on back, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material, stamped after 1929, (except most post war target grips because individual fitting not required.)

7. Mid-lock cam plate, backside with cyl open – “Triple Locks” only, in any caliber (up to all 5 digits).

*NOTE: The one TRUE place you can be sure of reading the original serial number for all Hand Ejectors of any vintage with stamped numbers, (which includes any letter(s) prefixed #s after WW II,) is the BUTT of the gun, (or front grip strap on non-round stocked .22/32 Kit guns and Targets, .32 & .38 S&W Regulation Police pre Model of 1953 I frames, the .32 Transitional Targets from 1957, and single shots).

Pre war, post war butt serial # orientation:
Pre war serial #s on the butt read with barrel to the right and are centered, or offset if produced with a lanyard swivel (factory installed swivels are drilled with a jig and always 1/10” forward of center). Post war #s read with barrel to the left and are all offset to the rear.

Triple Lock Target Appreciation Thread-20200531_023147-jpg
Photo courtesy of kryten67


There’s an exception of course since M&P K frames were made all thru the war, the actual change transition period began in 1942 for the M&P series from right reading to left reading at the end of the original M&P serial range #1,000,000. After WW II the serial # reads with barrel to the left and is offset to the rear (except for serial numbers on the fore strap thru 1957).

Factory installed swivels after initial production or sent back to the factory for a swivel were drilled thru the centered pre war # which is re-stamped on left side of grip frame. Factory installed swivels after initial production on new guns in inventory will not always 'letter' especially if 'thrown in' for free.

NOTE: When an order came thru for a revolver with a lanyard swivel, certain barrel length, target sights, target grips, etc., and there were no assembled revolvers of that configuration as ordered, in inventory: a revolver(s) that matched the order as close as possible was pulled, drilled for a swivel & installed, barrel changed, target sights, or target grips added. Metal parts were numbered to the gun, but not target sights and not usually changed stocks.

** s/n on Rear face of yoke:

Photo by CptCurl


*** Stamped since 1857, stock #s, apparently exclusively on right panel only, changed to penciled #s c. 1900 and back to stamped #s in 1929. Scratched, penciled or stamped on hard rubber and premium stocks; numbering discontinued ~ late 1970s. Pre war penciled S/Ns are in the top half of the stock near the backstrap and read with the stock oriented with the back edge down. Post war numbering switched to lower right half of grip; earliest observed ~1960.
Sometimes a photo is needed to “see” the penciled #. “Seeing” the penciled serial number is made much easier using the Gimps Threshold tool: 8.52. Threshold
Photos here: SMITH & WESSON DA 45 MODEL 1917 COMMERCIAL

Pre war fixed sighted guns have serial #s in 6* locations, target** models as many as 9. Triple Locks have 7 including the mid lock cam plate, therefore 10 locations on TL Target models.

*Post War continued the 6 fixed sight locations thru ~1956, and 9 s/n locations on early Post War Transitional target models with pre war target sights only, thru 1957, but dropped the 3 target sight locations post war on the new Micro-click sighted models, which were no longer specifically fitted to the top strap.

**Target models will have the serial number (or assembly # on very early 1900s guns) as shown:


1. front sight blade, must be removed to see it
2. under rear sight, must be removed to see it
3. rear sight blade, must be removed to see it
If the s/n is more than 4 digits, the front and rear sight blades can have a partial s/n. All three parts must be removed to observe the #s. Non-numbered front and rear sight blades have typically been replaced, in most observations.

We owe the Russians a vote of thanks; having been the 1st to require multi-serial # locations on their S&W #3 contract revolvers.

TARGET SIGHT NUMBERING:
Photo by Mike Priwer


Photo by Mike Priwer


NOTE: The Factory commonly pulled a new gun from the vault for a special order...target sights, nickel finish, etc., and therefore the order was special handled and may or may not have serial #s on added target sights, optional target stocks, etc.

Also if a gun was sent back to the factory for the installation of target sights, and would once again be special handled in the Service Dept, it also may or may not have the serial # stamped on the sight parts. But in this case it would have a rework date on the left side grip frame and usually a star following the butt serial #.

If no S/N on sights and no rework date/star, the sights were ordered as parts and installed by an aftermarket gunsmith.

DECREASING SERIAL # LOCATIONS:
The number of serial # locations or if a Model/dash # is stamped on a particular S&W Hand Ejector has more to do with where it was in the production/assembly stages then when change orders were issued, therefore as we've learned to expect with S&W, there are great variances and exceptions galore.

Officially, on May 1, 1957 S&W eliminated the Soft Fitting Operation: So it generally corresponds with the model number stamping order June 12, 1957. It was no longer necessary to routinely stamp the serial number on the barrel, cylinder & yoke arm rear surface and show up unstamped over a transition period. So guns in process or in inventory as of 5/1/57 can still have more than 3 and up to 6 locations, and guns shipped after this time may have some of the former number locations because assembly was done over time and as inventory from the old process was used up.

The 6 serial # locations were down to only 3 left on the majority of models (but not all) from c. late 1957 to 1959 which are:

1. Grip frame butt (prefixed by a letter(s) following WWII)

2. Extractor star - backside

3. Right stock – backside (except most post war target grips because individual fitting not required.)

ASSEMBLY (factory work) #s:
These multi-digit numbers of 3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke at the hinge, in the ‘yoke cut’ on frame opposite the yoke near the hinge (usually accompanied with the inspector’s letter or # code stamp of approval, but not always), and inside of the sideplate, for the pre war and early post war period thru ~early 1958.

After 1957 model #s were assigned and stamped on the frame in the yoke cut. The serial # was soon after added in the ‘yoke cut’ as well and the assembly # moved to the left side of the grip frame parallel to the butt. Once the gun is shipped, the only use for the assembly # is to confirm the three parts it's stamped on, are original. These are still in use to this day.

More currently beginning in the 1980s we see non-matching multi-digit numbers parallel to the butt left or right side, and inside the side plate. “They are just assembly numbers. They are not important numbers in my opinion.” Roy


MODEL NUMBER STAMPING:
began eventually, sometimes months after being ordered June 12, 1957, but the serial number was not yet stamped in the ‘yoke cut’ of the frame.

YOKE CUT STAMPING of the assembly (work) # vs. serial #:
changes after Model # stamping got more confusing. When Model Number stamping began some months to a year after being ordered June 12, 1957, the serial number was not yet stamped in the frame ‘yoke cut’ on the frame side of the yoke hinge. But in the l958-1959 time period as the use of target grips became more common and if the revolver was ordered with or was standard with target stocks which covered the butt serial #, the serial number is stamped in the yoke cut of the frame. The assembly number would have also been in this area, as it was stamped on the gun long before the revolver was serial numbered.

But when the serial # was stamped on the frame in the 'yoke cut', except on the smaller frames at first where it just didn't fit well, the frame assembly # from the 'yoke cut' was moved to the left side of the grip frame. The 3 assembly # locations became the yoke, left side of grip frame (later the right side), and backside of side plate. However, the post 1959-60 yoke cut serial # placement on the later guns is the reason for many pre 1957 guns to be incorrectly registered by the useless assembly # on the frame in the yoke cut.


Therefore by about the end of 1959, serial # locations went up to 4:

1. Grip frame butt (prefixed by a letter(s) following WWII)

2. Frame in yoke cut

3. Extractor star until ~ 1980 when the new extractor star shape was introduced.

4. Back of right stock, until ~ 1979 when no longer hand fitted, (except most post war target grips because individual fitting not required).

EXTRACTOR STAR Serial #:
“…were numbered from the early Hand Ejector models through about 1980. They were numbered because the ratchet lugs had been fitted to each particular gun’s lockwork, and it would be separated from the gun at some points of finishing. This is true for blue, nickel, and stainless guns.

"I've observed a lot more since I made that statement. Oddly, I have often observed all original 4 Screw K and N frames with numbered cylinders when none of the other parts were numbered, including the extractor.

“Obviously, something had changed in the fitting and/or finishing sequence for a short time that did not require numbering the extractor.

“Apparently, that sequence was changed again, and we arrive at the long used process of serial numbers on the frame and extractor only.” Regards, Lee Jarrett

Once the new shaped extractor star is introduced apparently beginning c. early 1980’s, and completed on all models by c. mid 1990s, it seems to have been coincident with deleting serial # stamping. Only the butt and yoke cut stamping locations remain to this day. But again with exceptions like anything S&W, as we some later introductions with laser engraved serial #s in new locations.

STOCK #s:
stamped since 1857, changed to penciled #s c. 1900 and back to stamped #s in 1929. Post War c. 1960 #s changed from vertically high up on grip, to low and parallel to butt (sometimes 2 lines). The stock # and hand fitting were dropped c. mid to late 1970s due to a more accurate stock making technique. Premium stocks may just have a letter stamp indicating frame size, i.e., ‘I’ for I frame, etc.

Therefore today there are only two serial # stamped locations on most revolvers:

1. Grip frame butt

2. Frame in yoke cut



LASER ENGRAVED SERIAL NUMBERS:
once introduced, the last two locations continue on the bottom of the butt and in the yoke cut. But there are exceptions, like below the cylinder, left side of frame below the cyl window and may or may not be on the butt.

The reason for the triple alpha-numeric serial number system is that S&W ran out of serial numbers that they had been using up to the 1980 and need a serial number series that had enough number possibilities to keep them going for many years. The first guns in the triple alpha four numeric series was the L frame revolvers starting AAA0001 in 1980. The rest of the models were slowly phased in from 1980 to approximately 1983.
__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Last edited by Hondo44; 10-17-2020 at 03:10 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 7 Users Like Post:
  #16  
Old 10-17-2020, 03:15 PM
JP@AK's Avatar
JP@AK JP@AK is offline
US Veteran
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 11,300
Likes: 3,710
Liked 11,868 Times in 4,600 Posts
Default

As usual, great information above from Jim.

Hondo44 is a major contributor to the collective knowledge of S&W revolvers, especially the small frame examples. He's the E.F. Hutton of this Forum!

e.f. hutton commercial - Yahoo Video Search Results
__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318
Reply With Quote
The Following 5 Users Like Post:
  #17  
Old 10-17-2020, 06:10 PM
StrawHat StrawHat is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 2,467
Liked 3,162 Times in 1,023 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JP@AK View Post
As usual, great information above from Jim.

Hondo44 is a major contributor to the collective knowledge of S&W revolvers, especially the small frame examples. He's the E.F. Hutton of this Forum!

e.f. hutton commercial - Yahoo Video Search Results
Your no slouch in the knowledge department either, Jack. The fact is there is an astounding amount of collective knowledge on this site. I, for one, learn something each and every time I visit. Thank you to all who are willing to share that information.

Kevin
__________________
Unshared knowledge is wasted.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #18  
Old 10-17-2020, 06:49 PM
LCC LCC is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 460
Likes: 531
Liked 1,079 Times in 309 Posts
Default

traded a 10/22 rifle and 500 rounds for this one.
Attached Thumbnails
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)-mvimg_20190612_193504741-jpg  
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
  #19  
Old 10-17-2020, 08:10 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
SWCA Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 16,274
Likes: 7,868
Liked 15,557 Times in 6,522 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JP@AK View Post
As usual, great information above from Jim.

Hondo44 is a major contributor to the collective knowledge of S&W revolvers, especially the small frame examples. He's the E.F. Hutton of this Forum!

e.f. hutton commercial - Yahoo Video Search Results
Kevin is precisely right! And your the man when it comes to M&P/M10s as well as other models.
__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 10-17-2020, 08:41 PM
JP@AK's Avatar
JP@AK JP@AK is offline
US Veteran
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 11,300
Likes: 3,710
Liked 11,868 Times in 4,600 Posts
Default

Kevin and Jim are very kind. I do what I can, but I don't consider myself an expert. Roy and Bill are true experts, along with some others on this forum. The rest of us are along for the ride, contributing what we can to the body of great S&W fans (or fanatics, as the case may be).
__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
  #21  
Old 10-18-2020, 12:42 AM
LeadSpitter's Avatar
LeadSpitter LeadSpitter is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 13
Likes: 3
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

I'm going to be that guy and say it. I think this guys FFL is trying to get the person from wanting it so he can snag this fine excellent specimen model 36-1 for themselves...

What a beautiful revolver.

P.S. Sorry for your loss.
__________________
<<< CERTIFIABLE GUN NUT >>>
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 10-18-2020, 05:40 AM
Ibmikey Ibmikey is offline
Member
Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum) Model 36-1 Question (new to forum)  
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Relocated to East texas
Posts: 474
Likes: 72
Liked 351 Times in 161 Posts
Default

I’m sure it has been hit upon several times in the responses but I would look for a different gun shop, there is no excuse for not knowing the product especially common items like S&W, Ruger, etc. If firearms are to be inventoried or transfer services offered a few firearms publications for reference should be close at hand, if not google the question!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to Forum and have a Model 64 question sdolsay S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 21 04-06-2020 02:49 PM
New to forum. 10-5 question please Bacardi S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 12 09-18-2017 07:35 AM
A question about this forum NRA DOC FORUM OFFICE 3 07-03-2012 02:25 PM
New to Forum, Victory model question 505PIR S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 30 02-19-2012 07:28 PM
NEw to the Forum!! HAve a question about my S&W MODEL 10 KUDA New Members Introduction 8 12-16-2010 02:20 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
smith-wessonforum.com tested by Norton Internet Security smith-wessonforum.com tested by McAfee Internet Security

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:24 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO v2.0.42 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Smith-WessonForum.com is not affiliated with Smith & Wesson Holding Corporation (NASDAQ Global Select: SWHC)