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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors


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Old 11-11-2020, 04:39 PM
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I finally found an unfired 27-2 made in 1978. I paid a fair price for it, but it doesn't have a presentation case or anything. That's OK with me, because I'm going to shoot it occasionally. No closet queens for me. I lucked out and my buddy hooked me up with some 38 spl wadcutters for target practice. I know they'll require a good barrel cleaning to get the lead out but I've been told they're safe for the longevity of the barrel. However, what's a good recommendation for a 357 hunting/defense round? Fusion makes a bonded copper bullet, but I'm hesitant to shoot a modern copper bullet out of my nice 27. Ammo is super scarce , but when i find a few boxes of suitable 357 magnum I'm going to buy them. Are there any care and maintenance considerations for a mostly glock owner such as myself? How about a holster that will gentle on the shiny bluing? Also, off topic but I just finished Smith and Wesson Hand Guns by Roy McHenry and it was great!
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Old 11-11-2020, 04:45 PM
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Well, assuming that all is well with your 27-2 now before -ANY- ammo goes through it, understand that you are holding (arguably... and we do!) the largest and most stout .357 Magnum that Smith & Wesson ever made.

As long as your ammo is .38 Special, .38 Special+P or .357 Magnum from a SAAMI source, then there is no ammo that will hurt your revolver, assuming the ammo is exactly what it is advertised to be.

Unfortunately, there exists no holster that I have ever heard of that won't, over time and use, leave marks on the gorgeous polished finish of a Model 27. However if your revolver isn't mint/unfired/NIB, then don't sweat the small things and carry it, shoot it, LOVE IT and don't worry about it.
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Old 11-11-2020, 05:14 PM
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You have bought the finest, IMNSHO, .357 revolver ever built. As above, no sane factory loaded round will damage it. BTW, what barrel length is it?

My favorite holster is the lined Model 29 made by Safariland. Not sure they make them anymore, but I'll bought several off of eBay. Look for ones marked S&W LG FR (large frame). Make sure you buy a leather holster. Safariland started making holsters out of some sort of synthetic a while back and they don't hold up as well as real old fashioned cowhide.
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Old 11-11-2020, 05:28 PM
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I certainly agree on the Safariland model 29, but also consider the model 25. The 29 is a thumb break and the model 25 is the hammer strap version. Find on that is lined with elk suade. If you have a 5 inch barrel, it will be difficult to find either one. The 6, 6 1/2 inch version is the most common, and maybe four inch.
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Old 11-11-2020, 05:32 PM
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Unless you personally know the source, never use reloaded ammunition and that includes wadcutter target ammo.
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Old 11-11-2020, 05:35 PM
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Since the M27 has adjustable sights, any bullet weight you settle on is fine. I personally like 158 grain .357 Magnum jacketed soft points or hollow points. Some very knowledgeable people like the higher velocity you get from 110 grain or 125 grain bullets.
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Old 11-11-2020, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosedog View Post
Unless you personally know the source, never use reloaded ammunition and that includes wadcutter target ammo.
+1. But when it comes to factory ammo, your 27-2 will digest anything just fine. Get out there and enjoy it!
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Old 11-11-2020, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Flash View Post
Since the M27 has adjustable sights, any bullet weight you settle on is fine. I personally like 158 grain .357 Magnum jacketed soft points or hollow points. Some very knowledgeable people like the higher velocity you get from 110 grain or 125 grain bullets.

Agreed. Hard to beat the standard 158-gr magnum loads from any of the major ammo manufacturers (Remington, Winchester, etc).

Jacketed hollow points or jacketed soft points, they will get the job done.
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adupuy View Post
I finally found an unfired 27-2 made in 1978. I paid a fair price for it, but it doesn't have a presentation case or anything. That's OK with me, because I'm going to shoot it occasionally. No closet queens for me. I lucked out and my buddy hooked me up with some 38 spl wadcutters for target practice. I know they'll require a good barrel cleaning to get the lead out but I've been told they're safe for the longevity of the barrel. However, what's a good recommendation for a 357 hunting/defense round? Fusion makes a bonded copper bullet, but I'm hesitant to shoot a modern copper bullet out of my nice 27. Ammo is super scarce , but when i find a few boxes of suitable 357 magnum I'm going to buy them.
It will eat anything commercial you care to feed it, and ask for seconds. I have your model's 'ugly' sister, the M28, and I've run some close-to-max loads through it without issues. If you shoot a lot of .38 Spl loads, what you watch for is a crust buildup in the chamber from the burned powder. all revolvers will develop it if not cleaned frequently, but in a magnum revolver, this crust line forms at a shorter distance from the breech, which can make seating full-length .357 loads difficult. The .357 case is around 0.135" longer than a .38 Spl case. Cleaning after each shooting usually prevents this. Modern copper jacketed bullets cause no harm to the barrel at all.

Kydex is a NO for a holster for it, nylon is also a no, unless it has a padded cloth lining. leather is better and traditional, but will also cause wear after a lot of in and out use. Custom saddlers who make holsters will line them if so ordered, which is a plus. Whatever you get, don't store the gun in the holster, they all retain moisture. get a silicone-impregnated gun sock if you want something to keep it in while in the safe, or hang it by a holder that uses a rod in the barrel.
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:28 PM
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Thanks for the replies! All useful info. It's a 6 inch barrel. I wish I could find the holster maker that i used for my 4506 leather holster. Unfortunately he seems to have shut down. One more question. What's the best tool to use to clean the cylinder where the bullets are seated? Will the bore brush suffice?
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:49 PM
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Hughes holsters was what i used for my 4506. Great leather! It's too bad I can't find him anymore. Y'all ever used don humes? The safariland holsters mentioned aren't available anymore.
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:03 PM
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Congratulations on your new 27-2.

I've never fired any .38 ammo in any of my .357s except my 640-1 when it was my EDC.

I've shot more 125 gr than any other ammo. My 6.5" 27 loves it.
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:10 PM
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If you have a proper fitting solid tip screwdriver or bits that you can use to carefully remove the most forward screw on the right side of the revolver, taking this screw out will allow you to remove the yoke and with it, the cylinder will come off the yoke.

I personally believe that it is better to pull the cylinder from the revolver rather than put frenetic forward energy in to scrubbing chambers while the cylinder is mounted.

Others may disagree.
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:31 PM
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I agree with all the above. The 27 can more than handle any commercially loaded 357 ammo, I prefer 158 grain jacketed hollow points myself. As for a holster, any quality lined leather should work, but all will eventually wear the bluing. How about posting a few pics?
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:55 PM
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Take a serious look at lobogunleather.com.....outstanding product with reasonable pricing and very short wait times.
Have 4 of their holsters and am very pleaded.

Randy

PS. Your 27 will safely handle any available .357 mag. ammo with NO problems. Be not concerned with copper jacketed projectiles......
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevens View Post
If you have a proper fitting solid tip screwdriver or bits that you can use to carefully remove the most forward screw on the right side of the revolver, taking this screw out will allow you to remove the yoke and with it, the cylinder will come off the yoke.

I personally believe that it is better to pull the cylinder from the revolver rather than put frenetic forward energy in to scrubbing chambers while the cylinder is mounted.

Others may disagree.
Absolutely I agree. There's a GREAT older S and W armorer on YouTube that explains that. Most YouTube tutorials are awful but he's great. I was more asking what particular tool would be best for cleaning the inside of the cylinders.
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Pine_Worker View Post
I agree with all the above. The 27 can more than handle any commercially loaded 357 ammo, I prefer 158 grain jacketed hollow points myself. As for a holster, any quality lined leather should work, but all will eventually wear the bluing. How about posting a few pics?
As soon as my FFL receives it I will post pics!
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:56 AM
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Can anyone direct me to a correct size "hollow ground " screwdriver for the grip and side plate screws? Oh and the yoke screw. They may all be the same size screw head I'm not sure.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:18 AM
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The s&w can handle Cor-bon ammo? Iím reluctant to shoot full house loads from the s&w in 357?
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
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I was more asking what particular tool would be best for cleaning the inside of the cylinders.
I keep my worn out .44/.45 caliber brushes for the purpose of scrubbing out cylinder bores......Ben
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adupuy View Post
Can anyone direct me to a correct size "hollow ground " screwdriver for the grip and side plate screws? Oh and the yoke screw. They may all be the same size screw head I'm not sure.
There are 4 different sized screw heads that a Smith revolver uses. You can find a set of bits at Brownellís or Numrich.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:29 AM
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You’ll also want to get a tool for loosening and tightening the ejector rod (remember too, that it’s a left hand thread).
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
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There are 4 different sized screw heads that a Smith revolver uses. You can find a set of bits at Brownellís or Numrich.
Do you know the sizes off the top of your head?
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:29 AM
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Youíll also want to get a tool for loosening and tightening the ejector rod (remember too, that itís a left hand thread).
Is that a specialty tool?
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:32 AM
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Sizes:
210-4
150-3
210-2
120-1
I didn’t remember them. Had a set sitting next to me.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
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Is that a specialty tool?
Yes. If you try to use a pliers, youíll bugger the rod or the knurling.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
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Sizes:
210-4
150-3
210-2
120-1
I didnít remember them. Had a set sitting next to me.
NICE!!! Thank you.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:54 AM
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NICE!!! Thank you.
Nice, Brownells has a set of these bits for 9 dollars for all 4. I can probably figure out which size goes to what screw.
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
What's the best tool to use to clean the cylinder where the bullets are seated?
Brownells has brushes specifically for cleaning revolver chambers. They're slightly bigger and longer and do a great job on stubborn crud in the chambers. Brownells Chamber brushes
Use standard brushes for the bore.

As others have said, that big N-frame will handle any commercial ammo you care to put in it.
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Old 11-12-2020, 10:50 AM
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You have received some great advice, but one item I don't see addressed is protecting the finish of the revolver. Since you intend to carry it holstered, just the rubbing of taking the revolver in and out of the holster will (over time) cause wear marks. If you put a coating of wax on the revolver it can help protect these surfaces. A highly recommended was is Renaissance Wax. It is a neutral ph and will not yellow. It was developed in England to protect the antique armor, guns, etc of the British Monarchy. Other waxes can be used, but watch for any possibility of yellowing. The wax will be partially removed whenever you clean the revolver with solvent, so you will need to replace it from time to time.

Enjoy your 27, the Cadillac of S&W's.
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Old 11-12-2020, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard View Post
You have received some great advice, but one item I don't see addressed is protecting the finish of the revolver. Since you intend to carry it holstered, just the rubbing of taking the revolver in and out of the holster will (over time) cause wear marks. If you put a coating of wax on the revolver it can help protect these surfaces. A highly recommended was is Renaissance Wax. It is a neutral ph and will not yellow. It was developed in England to protect the antique armor, guns, etc of the British Monarchy. Other waxes can be used, but watch for any possibility of yellowing. The wax will be partially removed whenever you clean the revolver with solvent, so you will need to replace it from time to time.

Enjoy your 27, the Cadillac of S&W's.
Wow, thank you. I probably will only shoot this thing occasionally, but I really want it to be passed to my young sons in many years to come. If it sees a holster, it will only be at the range or while target shooting. I will definitely get the chamber bore brush and look into the wax.
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:53 PM
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Congrats OP, you've acquired the closest gun to a Registered Magnum that you can! The Model 27 is just not exceeded for fit, finish and quality of any S&W's in my humble opinion. Mine shoot any factory ammo but I like the 158 gr myself, and I don't reload.

I've got enough K Frame 38's so if the Magnums go out for exercise, they go with 357 ammo, and usually in a gun rug in a separate range bag.

My small stable of 357 magnums:

Pre Model 27, 6-1/2" shipped 10-16-1952
Model 27-2 Blue, 3-1/2" shipped 4-5-1977
Model 27-2 Nickle, 6" shipped 5-8-1980
Model 28, Satin Blue, 4" HP, shipped 10-13-1975

NOT PICTURED: My Registered Magnum, s/n, reg number, and ship date unknown cause even though 53 years of looking, drooling, close but no cigar... I can't find one I can afford.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBill View Post
The s&w can handle Cor-bon ammo? Iím reluctant to shoot full house loads from the s&w in 357?
I have never shot any. By reputation Cor-bon ammunition is all full throttle, with a full throttle price tag to match, but as long as it is within SAAMI specs, I would not hesitate to shoot it in any S&W N-Frame .357.

Cor-bon should also be safe in a K-Frame too but I don't think I would ever have any reason to try it.
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Old 11-13-2020, 11:16 AM
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Congrats OP, you've acquired the closest gun to a Registered Magnum that you can! The Model 27 is just not exceeded for fit, finish and quality of any S&W's in my humble opinion. Mine shoot any factory ammo but I like the 158 gr myself, and I don't reload.

I've got enough K Frame 38's so if the Magnums go out for exercise, they go with 357 ammo, and usually in a gun rug in a separate range bag.

My small stable of 357 magnums:

Pre Model 27, 6-1/2" shipped 10-16-1952
Model 27-2 Blue, 3-1/2" shipped 4-5-1977
Model 27-2 Nickle, 6" shipped 5-8-1980
Model 28, Satin Blue, 4" HP, shipped 10-13-1975

NOT PICTURED: My Registered Magnum, s/n, reg number, and ship date unknown cause even though 53 years of looking, drooling, close but no cigar... I can't find one I can afford.
What a beautiful collection!!! I haven't found a single 357 bullet online. I had to get on a waiting list. I'll continue to look for 357 bullets.

Last edited by ditrina; 11-13-2020 at 12:59 PM.
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  #35  
Old 11-13-2020, 06:39 PM
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While you can cause some wear on an N frame such your M27 with full bore .357 ammo, it takes a lot and you are likely to beat up your hands and arm joints (and your financial status) long before doing any damage to the firearm. My recommendation is that you not look too hard to find full bore ammo, but find ammo you can shoot and not beat the snot out of your body. Full bore ammo has a place in some settings, but in reality, even in self-defense use, placement is more important than anything else.
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Old 11-13-2020, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
I haven't found a single 357 bullet online. I had to get on a waiting list. I'll continue to look for 357 bullets.
Don't overlook hard cast lead bullets. You might be able to still find those. One of my pet loads for the .357 is a hard cast 158gr LSWC over 6.0 grs of W231. I've chronographed this load at just a shade over 1000fps out of my guns. Pleasant to shoot, doesn't lead up the barrel and is wonderfully accurate.
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Old 11-13-2020, 10:22 PM
OutWest50 OutWest50 is offline
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Quote:
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Don't overlook hard cast lead bullets. You might be able to still find those. One of my pet loads for the .357 is a hard cast 158gr LSWC over 6.0 grs of W231. I've chronographed this load at just a shade over 1000fps out of my guns. Pleasant to shoot, doesn't lead up the barrel and is wonderfully accurate.
I purchased a box of Hunter's Supply 500 hard cast SWC's last week. I agree with the above post; don't overlook the SWC's, they have got the job done for many years.
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Old 11-14-2020, 01:22 PM
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I'll keep that in mind, but ammo is horribly scarce right now. What's the average price for a 357 bullet? Before the crisis, that is. I know 9mm used to be about 15 cents a round for fmj. I'm seeing all 357 at bare minimum 1.00 to 1.50 a bullet.
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Old 11-14-2020, 08:22 PM
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I certainly agree on the Safariland model 29, but also consider the model 25. The 29 is a thumb break and the model 25 is the hammer strap version. Find on that is lined with elk suade. If you have a 5 inch barrel, it will be difficult to find either one. The 6, 6 1/2 inch version is the most common, and maybe four inch.

El Paso's Model 2 (?) is almost a clone of Safariland's old M-29, and at least as well made. I've owned about five, some of each, Holds a six-inch .357 high and comfortably. I've used them for J, K, and N frames, all LINED and basketweave stamped. Work and leather is usually better than on Bianchi.

Hydra-Shok or conventional JHP or JSP. I don't trust recent Remington ANYTHING, ammo included. Use 158 grain unless you know something better for that need. Avoid hot 125 and lighter bullets, esp. in K-frame .357's. Very erosive to bbl. throats.

You must wear proper gun belt, not a common pants belt. Difference in comfort and support is very substantial.
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Old 11-14-2020, 08:28 PM
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I'll keep that in mind, but ammo is horribly scarce right now. What's the average price for a 357 bullet? Before the crisis, that is. I know 9mm used to be about 15 cents a round for fmj. I'm seeing all 357 at bare minimum 1.00 to 1.50 a bullet.
Bullet or cartridge?
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Old 11-14-2020, 09:02 PM
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El Paso's Model 2 (?) is almost a clone of Safariland's old M-29, and at least as well made. I've owned about five, some of each, Holds a six-inch .357 high and comfortably. I've used them for J, K, and N frames, all LINED and basketweave stamped. Work and leather is usually better than on Bianchi.

Hydra-Shok or conventional JHP or JSP. I don't trust recent Remington ANYTHING, ammo included. Use 158 grain unless you know something better for that need. Avoid hot 125 and lighter bullets, esp. in K-frame .357's. Very erosive to bbl. throats.

You must wear proper gun belt, not a common pants belt. Difference in comfort and support is very substantial.
I have several gun belts, all very good. Ditto on Remington.
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Old 11-14-2020, 09:02 PM
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Bullet or cartridge?
CARTRIDGE . I don't re load
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Old 02-18-2021, 10:45 AM
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Anyone have any experience shooting the 27-2 with the 357Blazze s 158gr. ? If so, how do you like them?
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Old Yesterday, 09:22 PM
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Which manufactured ammo were you using with those 158g Blazzer?
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Old Yesterday, 09:41 PM
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Reloading food for thought,

In ‘75 I purchased a new colt python. In 357/6” barrel. I tried new ammo and ended up reloading looking for sweet spot. This revolver drove me up the wall searching for accuracy. I tried just about every bullet weight and load. One day I realized this revolver always shot high at 25 yds. I made up some Speer 140 gr JHP using 2400 powder. I took aim at small rocks on the 100yd berm and I could ping any target at 100 yds. I haven’t tried this load in my m28/m27 yet.
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