1st I hope this is the right forum.

I have recently inherited a couple of older revolvers, a S&W Model 36 and a Colt Official police .38 circa 1950's.

I'm looking for recommendation's on best cleaning supplies as to not damage the bluing.

While I have owed many different guns and rifles I have not owned anything pre 1980. (Except a 98 Mauser)

I would like to get the bluing to really pop so to speak. I used to use Flitz on a Ruger Mark II Target and on a GP 100 is that a good choice?

Thank you

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There are so many products out there it is overwhelming. I simply got an old fashioned, sealed. screw top oil can—Like you saw on the Wizard of Oz. Mix 1/2 cheapest you can find plain ATF fluid, and 1/2 acetone. That is the best solvent and lubricant I have ever used.

If you really want to make the finish shine, clean well, then get ALL the surface oil/solvent off the outside of the revolver. Apply Renwax with your finger per the instructions. You will be amazed.

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Renwax is the way to go, avoid Flitz as it actually is removing bluing, any polish should be avoided for this reason. Something you can never really put back properly on an old gun.

I use Clenzoil and then Renwax.

Renaissance Wax (Ren Wax) is great to put a protective coating on most any gun.
Clean it good. Some folks will clean the outside with Mother's mag polish. But be careful you will removed bit of bluing, and use isopropyl alcohol to remove all oil from the outside. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe down and shine. I use a cleaning patch to gently rub Ren Wax all over the gun and a microfiber to buff it off. I buff it off before it dries completely. Go light on the wax, a little goes a long way.

Isopropyl alcohol will work to remove surface oil, but aerosol carb/brake/parts cleaner is quicker and probably cheaper. It's certainly more convenient.

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SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

Search for posts by rubiranch. Kenny knows how to clean and shine a revolver and has shared his secrets.

Kevin

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Congratulations, both guns appear to be in great condition!

There's nothing wrong with Hoppe's #9 and gun oil. I've used this method for decades with good results. I't probably second nature to most members, but it may help a few new shooters. I do like Renaissance wax for long term storage, but my shooters just get a light coat of oil. Get a good pistol cleaning rod, proper fitting bronze and nylon brushes, a clean toothbrush, some patches and several soft clothes. Chambers are a different size than the bore, so it's worth having chamber and bore brushes. Brownell's carries both. I like to wear latex gloves while cleaning guns.

I suggest carefully removing the stocks/grips before you start. Scrub the bore and chambers with Hoppe's and a brush. Hoppe's will degrade bronze brushes, so it's best to use nylon brushes for this. Press the ejector rod and clean under the extractor star with the toothbrush and Hoppe's. Also go over the front of the cylinder, the frame and the outside of the barrel. Take a break and let the gun soak for awhile.

Wipe the bore and chambers with dry patches, then scrub them with a bronze brush. Run a solvent soaked patch through, then run dry patches until they come out clean. Inspect and repeat as necessary. When the bore/chambers look good, run an oily patch through them.

Wipe everything off with a clean cloth. At this point, you can either apply Ren wax or wipe all surfaces with a lightly oiled rag. Keep you oil rag in a ziplock bag and use it after handling guns.

Ren wax works great on stocks too. I use a toothbrush with very little Hoppe's to clean them, wipe them dry, apply the wax and buff it off. I keep it out of the checkering. Reinstall the stocks and admire your treasure!

If the gun sees a lot of range time, I'll pull the cylinder for cleaning. It's not rocket science, but you need to use the correct screwdriver and be careful. It's easy to slip and damage the finish.

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Kano Kroil ( available from Brownell's ) is a first rate penetrating oil product that will soften rust and grungy varnished oil and dirt and will even remove barrel leading. Saturate the surface and let the product work and scrub with a stiff tooth brush. It may take a while but it will work. After Kroil does its work then you can clean with denatured alcohol ( hardware store ) to remove the Kroil. You can also blow it off with carburetor or brake cleaner but be sure you have adequate ventilation as the stuff is hard on one's liver. The trick is to remove grunge chemically not mechanically as any abrasive product will remove the blue to some degree. Keep in mind that guns of this vintage may not have a particularly shiny
blue to begin with. Over the years I've had excellent results with Birchwood Casey's Barrier as a preservative and I very much agree with other fellas that a good wax is an excellent preservative and shine. You can clean the grip panels with Windex and a tooth brush followed by a light coating of tung oil.
Good luck with your project.

As for cleaning the surface, the Flitz followed by Ren Wax treatment is the way to go. Use Flitz sparingly. I have used Flitz on a number of used rifles and handguns that I have purchased. There is always old oil buildup and maybe some very light beginnings of rust that you cant see and that dull the finish that it will remove. Here are two used revolvers that I bought in the last 7 years that were in excellent mechanical condition but finish on both were dull. One is a 1956 Colt Official Police and the other a 1979 nickel S&W Model 10.

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Thank you for the very informative response.

These were my Grandfathers guns passed on to my father and now passed on to me, someday I will pass them on to my sons.

Hoppe's #9 and any oil you have handy.... 60 years and still have 'pristine' guns. Keep it simple.!!!!!!!

p.s. Keep some carpeting or other protective surface on your workshop floor so you don't drop them on a cement surface.... Cement is NOT GOOD for gun finishes.

IMHO,
J.

Flitz is a polishing compound and a mild abrasive ... use abrasive's carefully and sparingly because when used they can remove a little bluing . To best preserve the blue ...clean the surface with any good cleaner like Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner ... the Elite stuff will do no harm .
After getting clean ... protect and enhance the blue with Wax ... Renwax is museum grade , expensive and not easy to find ... I use a good 100% Carnauba Wax that is made for cars.
The wax job realy makes the finish look good !
Gary

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Agree sparingly and gently! Also - Flitz should only be used on original factory finished bluing. I bought my Ren Wax on line. The wax can also be used on the wood stocks.

Agreed, no reason to over-think this. Hoppes #9 solvent, Hoppes gun oil and some cleaning patches and bronze bore brushes will keep those guns looking good and functioning properly.
Wipe them with oily cloth after handing and store them properly.

Agreed...I add two more steps between Flitz and Renwax...I wash off the Flitz residue with WD40 which is a good cleaner in itself, but certainly not a lubricant...Then a spray down with brake cleaner followed by re-lubrication with your favorite brand...Then it's time for Renwax......Ben

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