Forgive my ignorance, but I must ask. I routinely shoot "plus P's" in my model 10's. They were made LONG before the advanced heat treatment of cylinders subsequently done on a more or less routine basis. I'm really not shooting really high volume, maybe 25 rds. per session, every other month or so. Am I doing any long tern damage to the revolvers other than shortening their life, or am I being overly concerned with no real reason?

Probably not, unless it is a really early specimen. The really early Ks were a little more tender........

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dd884
JMHO-YMMV

If it is actually stamped model 10, then it is fine....most +p ammo is not that souped up anyhow....it is lethal as is standard .38 special ammo...not worth the extra cost unless you want actual hot .38/44 performance like BB 158 gr lswchp ammo.....that stuff is pretty hot yet is safe in your k frame .38....Underwood also has some hot useful stuff like that.

Are they marked "M10"? I think once heat treatment started, it wasn't done "more or less". Unless I'm not understanding what "advanced heat treatment" is.

Twenty five rounds every other month = 150 rounds / year. If they are model marked M10s, you will never wear them out at that rate. ... unless they were worn out to start with.

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You're shy a few manners.

They are both relatively new Model 10's dash-5 and dash-7 I recall, so I guess I have no real worries. As to heat treatment, I believe in order to get the +P designation, the cylinders get either longer dwell time at the advanced temperature, or two passes (aka: "double heat treatment"). I imagine it's all about energy consumption and overall production costs. AND, by the way, thanks for the responses! They are most appreciated.

S&W is on record that any model-marked (meaning has a numeric designation, which they implemented in the late 1950s), all-steel revolver is good for +P.

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Pickpocket

The M13, a M10, chambered for.357 is the same gun only chambered for the more powerful cartridge. So your .38 M10 is strong enough for .38+p.
Jim

Shot thousands of +Ps in 10's and 15's over the years. No damage except to the berm and my wallet. Choot 'em, Son!

I just have to ask: WHY?

Just have to light that one off, do ya?

Short answer: because there are some really good loads that happen to be +P.

But perhaps the better reply is: why not?

I'll go get my popcorn.

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Pickpocket

Wasn't going to be a weenie, but I wondered the same thing. I am astonished at how many posts involve folks being obsessed with "+p". I'm a decent word smyth, but words escape me for this obsession!

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

Interesting. I read a lot here and don't see much obsession with +P, just a lot of folk who don't know if it's safe to use in their guns and forget that there's a search function.

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Pickpocket

Different heat treatment and a longer cylinder/shorter barrel shank in a M13.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

When in doubt then, go with what the barrel says. If it says +P, go for it, if it doesn't...........go buy one that does. When all else fails, go grab a .500 and have at it.

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

How do we know if the steel alloy and heat treatment on a M10 is the same as a M13? Similar appearance and similar dimensions do not mean similar strength.

I can see where S&W might make them identical strength to simplify production, or not do that because of increased cost.

One of the NYPD firearms instructors said that when they switched from std pressure .38 RN to .38+P SWC, the bad guys didn't fall any quicker but the guns wore out somewhat quicker. Not disastrously quicker, but enough for the instructors and armorers to notice over time.
That suggests the .38 guns weren't .357 strength.

Frequently carry small J frame mdl 36 with "for sale to law enforcement only" +P 110 gr.. Almost never practice with this ammo, only for carry as it is unpleasant to shoot and unnecessary against the most vicious paper target. Over time frequent use of +P in little Chief Special undoubtedly hard on the little revolver. Model 10 K frame is used for .357 magnum as well so +P is just fine.

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Jim