Saw an older 36 Chief's Special that looks like it's never been fired. Flawless blue finish except a stripe worn to steel horizontally along the cylinder. I'll guess it rode in a glove box for years. So my question is...would it make sense to restore the cylinder finish on an otherwise perfect vintage Chief's Special. Is it even possible?

Yes,it’s possible,but the new finish may be more black than the rest of the gun depending on the vintage

S&W's current bluing process is different from that of the late 20th century process. It is a black finish and is not as good as the old bluing. To get the correct blue, you will need to look elsewhere, like maybe Ford's. Even then, getting the cylinder to match the rest of the revolver is a real challenge.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Technically yes. That said, the finish will never match! PASS!

It will never match.

I asked Turnbull to refinish a cylinder (to match).

Their response: "If we did that cylinder 50 times, altering the variables each time, we might get a match twice. How do you like those odds?"

Ralph Tremaine

A thought amidst all this doom and gloom: It strikes me that the nature of the "rust bluing" process is such that you have the option to stop or continue on a regular basis--------------and the determining factor is the color.

That's the good news. The bad news is this process is very likely the most labor intensive of all of them---as in EXPENSIVE. Back to the good news again: You can do it yourself------and I think I know of a member of this hive who's done it---and can very likely help with some worthwhile tips. (The basics are laid out in one or more of Chicoine's books.) Let me know if you'd like to learn more.

I see. I thought that since the rest of the gun was so perfectly new looking, a reblue of the cylinder wouldn't be very noticeable. I wasn't aware that the bluing process has changed at S&W.

I may have been lucky. I have a Model 19 that was pristine except for a dime sized spot on the side plate. I sent the plate to Glenrock Blue in Glenrock WY. It's on the revolver now and it would take a very good eye to see any difference between the finishes. The plate fits the frame without a gap and the trademark is sharp. The OP's cylinder might be a different story. I trust Turnbull's advice.

Did I mention that Glenrock Blue does excellent work?

I had a 48 that someone scratched their initials on the side plate. I took it to Hank Fleming and he polished out the initials and reblued the side plate using rust bluing. Turned out perfect. Problem is Hank Fleming has retired, bummer.

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

Well, the other thing Turnbull told me was, "Bluing is a living thing---it reacts to its environment. We can do that cylinder now, and it will look exactly like it did when S&W did it 50 years ago------but it won't look like the rest of the gun looks now."

That said, I awoke this morning with another bluing experience rattling around in my head; and it may be helpful to you---depending. It started off with a pre-war configured I frame target, brand new in the box---never opened/unwrapped/etc.----and apparently never inspected before it was shipped. It had a sliver of white steel running almost the full length of the top strap right next to the sight channel----maybe 1/16" wide at the widest point. I have no clue of the whys and wherefores.

My trusty Birchwood Casey Presto touch-up pen and I fixed it---flawlessly (following the instructions exactly, except using bronze wool instead of steel wool for the "buff" and "blend" bit). The process was simplicity itself: I performed repeated applications until it matched.

Ralph Tremaine

I got a "slightly shop-worn" Model 10 that needed a new barrel. I got a NOS 5" Parkerized barrel, technically marked ".38 S&W" but slugs at .357. Removed the Parking and used Mark Lee Express Blue and it turned out pretty well.





I do need to re-blue the cylinder, though, and that's what I'll use. It's a hot bluing process but not diffiult with a little care and attention. A superfine Grobet carding wheel (Brownells) is the best way to burnish off the rust between coats, but superfine steel wool, rendered oil-free by soaking in acetone or laq. thinner, will work, too.

ps- "slightly shop-worn" included a previous owner "engraving" their name on the frame below the cylinder I managed to burnish most of it off.



I'm in the process of "mcgyvering" a wider 0.125" front sight for it, as this is .010. If it turns out OK I'll post pics in a separate thread.

Attached Images

	Barrel L pre- and post-.JPG (134.0 KB, 153 views)
	Top of barrel pre- and post-blue.jpg (142.8 KB, 153 views)
	Owner's sig..JPG (114.2 KB, 152 views)

Try some Blue Wonder on it. Done correctly, you can blend it right in.

I have one experience with having a cylinder reblued that was gold-plated (?!). I sent it out with the yoke assembly and asked for the cylinder to match the yoke as closely as possible; they are very close to indistinguishable.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Quite a few years ago Fords refinished the cylinder of a K-22 that was shipped in 1949. The cylinder had developed brown patina. The refinish was done perfectly and matched the finish on the rest of the revolver. If you wanted to have the cylinder on your revolver refinished, you should call them and discuss what you want done. Fords may be able to help.

Bill