I'm looking at this Model 66 with a recessed barrel and the ammo I was given (believe to be reloaded) doesn't fit flush so you can't really close the barrel. Upside down they seem to. Is it just dirty or are these loads messed up? Could anything be wrong with the gun? See photo

Attached Images

20211023_210825.jpg (61.2 KB, 296 views)

if those are legit .357 cartridges, the cylinder looks to be 1/10" short, meaning it's probably from a .38 special, like the model 64.
Welcome to the forum.

.38 special cylinders weren’t recessed, only the magnums (and rimfires) were.

Clean the cylinder thoroughly, or try other .357 rounds.

It’s a cylinder not barrel. Is it possible the ammo, if reloads weren’t resized properly?

__________________
BCCI Life Member #2068

Several possibilities to consider.......

First, it appears that the cartridge rims are not the problem and doubtful that the recesses in the cylinder are the problem if the recesses are clean.

Check each chamber in the cylinder to confirm that there is no build up of fouling in the chambers.

My guess is that either the chambers are fouled with powder residue from firing .38 Special cartridges or the cartridges that won't quite chamber properly are reloads that don't have the proper crimp (maybe excess crimp causing the case to bulge a bit).

Try some known factory ammo........

I would agree the most likely suspect would be debris left from firing .38 Special cartridges that leave a ring at the end of the case. The Winchester and Remington 130 grain bullets will leave a very hard ring that will inhibit chambering .357 Magnum cartridges. Lots of scrubbing with a bronze chamber brush is required to get them clean.

__________________
Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I'm going to try and find some new ammo today. I'm feeling something is wrong with that ammo. The gun could use a cleaning, but I don't think there is that much residual to hinder the fitting alone. Also I've read these guns can have issues at the cone if heavy 357 shooting happens. This is my first revolver but how obvious would that damage be? This is a 1976 no dash fyi

Some K-frame magnums have ended up with cracked forcing cones @ the 6:00 position (at the flat spot) It’s caused by firing a bunch of hot 125 gr. .357 ammo … it would be pretty obvious.

Stick with standard 158 gr. bullets in .357 Magnum & you’ll be fine.

As few as 25 rounds of 38 can cause troubles chambering 357's. Scrub the chambers with a bronze brush and good solvent, then try again.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I’d also check for debris under the extractor star.

I'll try a good cleaning first. I'm only able to locate 38 specials right now and plan to fire a few today provided those fit ok. Is there any chance the 38s vs 357 mags would fit differently in the recessed part? I know the length is different, but my understanding is the diameter and lip should be the same, yes?

I used to use a Lewis lead remover in the cylinder after shooting a lot of 38s in my 19s. Got out lots of fouling.

Your picture is out of focus, so I can't be certain. Take a look at the crimp. It appears you have handloads with an excessive crimp. If there's a bulge you might have trouble chambering the cartridges. If there's a carbon fring from firing 38 Special cartridges, that would add the the problem.

FWIW, don't be too quick to ". . . fire a few today provided those fit ok." You'd be wise to check for the potential problems already noted by other posters here before shooting.

My assessment as well. There's only 0.135 inch difference between a .38 Spl. case and a .357 case, which is what those rounds (in your picture) look like they're short-seating at. My guess is a hard carbon ring in the chamber, the gun needs a thorough cleaning and then a re-test to see if those cartridges seat properly.

And I'd give that ammo to someone else, unless you actually saw it being reloaded and are certain of the specs (powder load and type). Buy some factory loads for it. I am a reloader but I won't use someone else's reloads in my firearms.

Here are some more pics. The ammo doesn't seems right. I should be able to locate some 38 sp today. I did a quick clean and fitting is still the same. Really hoping it's the ammo here. Notice anything else of Suspect?

Attached Images

	20211024_113237.jpg (97.9 KB, 137 views)
	20211024_113023.jpg (83.1 KB, 136 views)
	20211024_112936.jpg (70.6 KB, 135 views)

Here is my advice:

Never shoot handloads of unknown origin in any of your guns. The risk is too high and there is no upside.

Sometimes I end up with handloads of which I know nothing. The only thing I ever do with them is pull the bullets with a inertia puller, burn the powder in a tin plate, dispose of the primers and keep the brass and bullets for my own handloads, if they are not damaged in any way.

__________________
Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

I agree with those that suggest carbon or lead buildup in the chambers. A quick cleaning won't do the job. Some elbow grease is in order. A chunk of chore boy wrapped around a 38 cal brass bore brush will get it as well as any other method.

I see debris in some of the cylinder recesses. It does not take a whole lot to prevent a round from fully seating. Welcome to the joys of recessed chambers.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

Just an update for those that care. I wasn't able to fire it today but did find some 38 SP. Those fit decent in the cylinder. I've been cleaning the chambers because there is a heavy carbon buildup. The 357 mag I was given is actually sitting pretty good now. It's seems the buildup in the chambers is mostly to blame. I still need do more and will probably have to resort to some more aggressive measures. Could I put the cylinder in my ultra sonic cleaner with some simple green aircraft cleaner?

I wouldn't use simple green unless I was certain that it contains no ammonia or other caustic or acidic ingredient.

An ultrasonic cleaner will do nothing to remove hard carbon and lead buildup. Do what oink suggested. I have successfully remove heavy leading from a police shotgun barrel using Shooters Choice Lead remover solvent and about 2 hours of scrubbing. Be sure to follow instructions and RevolverJim’s advice.

__________________
Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

Ultrasonic cleaning is not going to remove carbon and lead. Lewis Lead Remover will. Poor man's Lewis Lead Remover is a bronze bore brush with a strip of pure copper Chore Boy pot scrubber wrapped around it.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

Much good advice above. If that were my cylinder and it were separated and stand alone, I might well pre-soak it for a few days in some Sea Foam cleaner, or a penetrant of one's choice.

Followed by rotational penance via the above-mentioned copper Chore Boy on a suitable bronze brush made happy by additional application of solvent.

That experience, both in waiting and in exercise, would allow time for one to ponder how never to let that happen again!

If you reload, try this...

Get a .357 empty case.

In your loader, over flair the case mouth.

Using the deburring tool, make the case mouth edge sharp.

Use this new tool to scrape the carbon out of the cylinder. You'll probably need something like Shooter's Choice or Hoppes as well.

+1 on the Chore Boy and bronze bore brush. Chore Boy pads are shredded copper. Just pull off some copper strands and wrap them into the brush. This is also my favorite method of removing lead fouling from barrel bores.

An alternative is a scraping tool designed specifically for removing .38 fouling from .357 cylinders. Google “SliXprings Scraper”.

Clean till every wall and grove is cleaned of residue.
I’m reading your post in my cell may have missed something.
BUT did I read someone else’s unknown reloads?

Never ever use unknown reloads by individuals. Never ever.

I know there are excellent reloaded on this forum but it is a science that must be done under precise accurate measured steps.

How I learned reloads by others are not safe.

In the late 60’s I had picked up a Colt agent in a trade. It was hurting my cousins ears. Hurt mine too. I was at a small bait fishing gun shop on a mom and pop store been there many times. I happened to ask if he had any 357’s he said no I’ve a 38 NIB around here that I ordered for a guy 10 years ago and it came in 38 not 357 like I ordered. I was going to pass but said let’s look at it.

He dug around the bottom shelves and pulled out a dusty box. Inside was a new Colt 2nd gen 38 Special with a 7.5 bbl. not what I wanted but he said straight trade. I took it. He said he’d always wanted a snubby to carry out with nightly receipts. This is step one in learning to not use joe blows reloads.

Bait shop didn’t have pistol ammo so I go to pawn and gun store. He had 38’s this was back in the day full ammo shelves. He had reloads from a local guy about 2 bucks a box. I grab 3 and buzz back to the farm.

Set up a target, 1st shot light pop, 2nd shot itty bitty pop. Neither hit the paper target at 7’. 3rd shot sounded like a mouse passing gas almost didn’t hear it. Getting ready to shoot #4 but my mind went curious. I pulled the cylinder for safety. No light coming thru bbl. drive out the bully with an aluminum cleaning rod tried a round from another box. Same mouse toot. Drive it out. Go back to gun shop. He went pawn shop in me, said no warranties. I went to local Ben Franklin that sold guns and ammo bought some 38’s and enjoyed my Colt. Wasn’t smart enough to keep it but.

I ordered a 38 reloading set up from Herters and did my 38’s. Which led to a Lyman spar t reloading press and all needed to load for a list of calibers From 222 to 458 win and most in between prior to the new short mags.

What’s this have to do with your 66?
You don’t know it’s history. Like one poster mentioned DId someone put in a 38 cylinder?
Other issues unknown?

I would clean it and if fowling isn’t the culprit I’d Thales it to a gun smith to be measured. Might save your gun your fingers or eye. Please do it right for yourself.

My stance on getting it checked is from buying a model 19 at a gun show slick looker,4” perfect. But 357’s wouldn’t fully chamber gun smith said it’s a 38 cylinder. Whoa I’d been had. I had the smith find and install a cylinder.
Me the guy of a 1000 got took. I looked for that guy at every gun show in STL until I retired and moved.

Get it cleaned can anyone here tell by numbers on cylinder? Buddy I wouldn’t ream it out because heat treating is probably different.

Clean the cylinder with a tight fitting (new) brass bore brush , gun solvent of your choice and plenty of elbow grease ... do not risk ultra sonic and Simply Green or Dawn or any off the wall cleaning method / material .
NOTE ... Clean the gun , scrubbing barrel and cylinder , after EVERY range trip ... it doesn't matter if you shoot 1 or 1,000 rounds ...Clean the Gun ... Don't let the residue build up and you wont ever have a problem .
The guy's who say you don't need to clean and lubricate your guns are either fools or idiots ... don't listen to them !
Gary

__________________
Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Is there any concern using an oversized bronze bore brush to clean the chambers. I’ve used an old worn 45cal brush in 38 cylinders and never observed any issue. I’ve also used a nylon 25 cal in 22 chambers with no evidence of problems. I’ve done this for decades. Any thoughts?

I've been using a .375 rifle brush for .38/.357 chambers since the 80's.

No Problem ... that is exactly what I use , 40+ years at least, and if the 45 cal brush gets too loose with use ... wind a thin layer of #0000 steel wool around the old brush to " Refresh" it ... works like a black magic charm !
Gary

__________________
Certified Cajun
NRA Member