Wondering what my options are for Re-barreling this Smith and Wesson Model 10-6. Serial number D9XXXXX. It currently has a 4 inch barrel (101mm) which makes it a prohibited firearm in Canada. The number of licenced prohibited firearm owners is decreasing and since its made after 1946 there's no exemptions for grandfathering it. I would either like to put a 5 inch pencil barrel or if someone can manufacture a similar barrel that's greater than 105mm (4.13") that would also be ideal.

This is one of 10 guns which the RCMP purchased. For some reason it was never adopted and they continued to use the 5 inch pencil barrel up until 1995 when it was replaced with the Smith and Wesson 5946.

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Can you buy gun parts from ebay, living in Canada?

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All the K frames run the same threads. It is not difficult for a revolver smith the change one out. Numerich has 4 1/4" light barrels for $61.56, but says shipment prohibited outside US. There is a 6" barrel on Ebay. but I do not know anything about shipping barrels across the border.

Thanks for the info. I am probably better off finding a barrel in the USA and then exporting it to Canada. There's a few dealers in Canada that have offices in the USA and can take care of all the export / import paperwork.

The Numerich barrels were shown under the 10-1 schematic, but same threads as a 10-6

I had the same problem and got a 5" barrel from TradeEx. These are marked "38 S&W" but a fellow on Cdn. Gunnutz (are you a member there, too?) said they actually measure .357. I slugged the barrel and he was right.

They are parkerized, so I stripped that off and blued it with Mark Lee Express Blue (which I got from Henry at Budget Shooter Supply in Surrey BC) and it turned out pretty well. It's a hot-bluing process but not all that difficult to do.





I saw those Numrich 4 1/4" HB, too and would have loved to have got one. But yes, the "not for export" thing would presumably scupper that, although I don't know if that applies to individuals only or is across the board. Companies like Prophet River and I Run Guns do legal importation of firearms, so I can't see that they would have a problem importing one.

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Depends on the part and the seller. Things like grips are probably OK, if the seller will ship to Canada. But certainly not most gun parts, which are restricted for export from the US by ITAR, irrespective of what Canada's import rules are. This is why Brownells has their own Export Division and you can filter stuff by "Available outside USA".

I believe most of this can be traced back to the late 90's when the Canadian gov't was asked by the US if they wanted any special exemptions on such things (since we're a major trading partner and all those good things etc.) and then Prime Minister Jean Chrétien said, "No."

Darn.... this has got me thinking of looking into one of those 4.25" HB from Numrich. The cost of the barrel isn't all that bad, but my 'smith charged me nearly $200 to fit the 5" and I don't want to spend that again. I could probably make an action wrench and get the proper pin punch for the barrel, but if the rear of the barrel required machining to fit, I couldn't do that.

It's pretty common for a random K-barrel to install into a random K-frame and have a B/C gap within spec. I don't know how often it works in the wider world, but anecdotally it seems about 80% successful in the experience I've had and heard of. You could always buy two or three barrels to get one the right length and clocking on the frame, then sell off the extras.
Two barrels and a frame wrench and you'd about break even. Of course, you should have a barrel vise as well and those can be spendy.

Thanks for this. I wouldn't expect a problem wth clocking since the barrel is pinned, plus the sights have to line up correctly, so I would think a slip fit would be how it works (?) At one point a few years ago I had planned to make a barrel vise so I might look into that again if I were to try rebarrelling it.

The pin will NOT keep the barrel from moving around if the shoulder does not torque up properly. You can have about 5° movement with the pin in if the shoulder fit is loose. I have changed some barrels. Trust me on this.

I use pieces of oak flooring in a vice to hold the barrel. You can make a frame wrench using 1" angle iron match drilled for a couple 5/16" bolts and UHMW carved to fit the frame. I made my K and J frame inserts from nylon and my original N frame ones from aluminum.

In theory you could adjust the shoulder using a file safed on the edges and Prussian blue and a bunch of time. I use my lathe

I bought 7 of the J&G gunsmith special 10-7 frames with no barrels, they are all shooters now.

Thanks for the advice. The potential slop with the pin makes sense.

I'd have to go the "file and lots of time" route. If I'm in the right frame of mind I can work slowly and methodically. I have lots of files and no problem ginding one edge safe. I think I got some oak or maple years ago to make a barrel vise, with some 1/2" steel bar I could use as a backing for oak inserts, then D&T each half for 1/2" Gr. 5 bolts. I may have some thick aluminum bar for an insert. Maple or oak might work as well.

Good hardwood properly fitted and clamped on barrel and or frame will work fine. The idea is for the wrench to grip the frame firmly and apply torque evenly so the portion between yoke and barrel location do not tweak. On an N frame you can leave the yoke in place to help, but on a K frame the bottom of barrel needs clearanced to clear the yoke tube so the barrel can not be turned much with yoke in place. I have thought of cutting a K frame yoke tube off and making a new insert for that side of my frame wrench, but so far my setup has been fine.

If your barrel turns on a few degrees to far you do not have to take the shoulder back so it makes another complete turn. Use a small punch to make a series of punch marks on the frame where the barrel shoulder mates. This will raise up a bit of metal around each punch spot and cause the barrel to tighten up sooner. First time I did that I made punch marks on the barrel shoulder, which worked, someone said they did it on frame. I did it on frame the next time I ran into that and it worked fine. I have changed out close to 20 barrels now and never had any problems later.

I have never been able to find a actual torque spec. for barrels. But, it doesn't take a lot. I would guess around 50-60ft lb. From what it has taken me to break them free. Barrels and frames are relatively soft and K frames are 36 per in .536 and Ns .670. The torque spec on a grade 2- 9/16 fine thread bolt is only 59# and a 5/8" 83# and they are not hollow.

I've been hearing about the re-barreling up in Canada. It's amazing that 4MM makes such a big difference. Sorry you have to go through this process.

If a barrel goes on a bit past center, you can Loctite it, getting the front sight centered, and leave it undisturbed overnight. You can even use blue so it can be fine tuned or removed later. The Loctite will hold fine if you clean with solvent first, let it evaporate, then coat both threads (use a Q-tip), screw it together and wipe off the excess.

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There is a series of YouTube videos by MosinVirus about restoring a Colt 1917. It includes removal and replacement of the barrel with homemade action and barrel wrenches. He had to fix a divot in the forcing cone which caused the gun to spit lead out of the barrel/cylinder gap.

Oh, it doesn't make any PRACTICAL difference, aside from some stupid regulation that was put in Bill C-68 (the rewrite of the Firearms Act) back in the 1990s.

The official legal minimum is 105mm (4.13"). I think my Ruger SR9 barrel is 105.7mm

Doesn't apply to criminals, of course.

NOW I know why US handgun builders are making their barrels 4.25" instead of 4" like they used to.
Anyone know the rules for Canada on rifles & shotguns?

It was a simple way to outlaw a huge number of standard hand guns. Concealing an extra 1/8", 1/4" or even 1/2" of barrel is simple and had nothing to do with it IMHO

Yep. Pretty much ideologically-based. Don't get me started or we'll be here all day...
Well, you can start here. Basically, though, it's based on overall length of the firearm, rather than the actual barrel length. So, while in the US, a rifle must have a >16" barrel, we can have a rifle or shotgun even down to 8" (I think) as long as the gun is "x" inches overall and the barrel is original, not cut down. I have a Chiappa Alaskan .357 lever action with a 12" barrel. Ot doesn't even fall into the "restricted" class, like all handguns. (At least not yet...) And a local smith up here makes some really nifty and extremely accurate Ruger 10-22s with 12.5" barrels. Also excellent custom work on 1911's.



Edit: Here's a quck pic of my Chiappa, which is also a takedown. Unscrewing the mag tube allows the barrel/forearm to be detached. Not that useful on a 12" rifle, but Andy Skinner of Skinner Sights does a nice pckage with a 16" version.

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Wouldn't it be the official legal minimum, or do I misunderstand?

Aaarrrrggghhhhh... No, you are right Corrected now .

Is there a way to install a permanent barrel extension of some sort to meet the 1/4" requirement?

Sorta... But any addition must be rifled; the rifled portion must be of the required length.

My 10-5 came with a bit of barrel skilfully soldered on. Presumably the 'smith had shortened a barrel and had the end of a barrel so he aligned the grooves and silver-soldered it on. Barely noticeable from the outside, aside from visuallly moving the front sight back a bit. Looking at the join on the inside I thought I could detect a bit of ss in the grooves. It shot OK, but my marksmanship isn't the best, so I decided to get the 5" barrel in the pic above. I'd imagine the 'smith's bill was fairly high as that's not a simple bit of work.

This would have presumably been done sometime after about 1996, when the idiot Bill C-68 made a nice 4" Model 10 into a Category 12(6), ie "Prohibited", and would have required the owner at the time to re-register it as such. Those who did so were grandfathered in, so they can sell to others with the same licence, but cannot buy a new gun that falls into that category. (And none were allowed to be imported into Canada after that anyway.) I missed out on all that, so I'm pooched But as someone posted above, this is why US gunmakers began making handguns with barrels that just meet the required length.

I don't understand how this country does not allow export of barrels. I have bought several complete blanks. All had an OD of over 1" and b no external threads what so ever. Just a heavy piece of round stock with a hole in the center that was rifled. All of them came with a piece of paper informing me that I was not to export. Stupid in my opinion. Way easier to kill someone with it as a club than make it int a functioning gun.

Another method of removing material from the shoulder is to cut a round hole is some appropriate sheet abrasive (w/d sandpaper)
to just allow the threaded stub of the barrel through, then tighten the barrel in the frame until it almost binds, and rotate the paper. Unscrew and regularly use lots of water, light oil, or tapping fluid so you don't keep wearing out your paper. Of course it's better to have a lathe, but this way does work and actually works well.

LOL. I'm npt even the OP and I'm getting enough good advice here to egg me on to try to get a barrel and have a go at fitting it. I'm keeping all this info just in case I get a case of Shade Tree Gunsmithing Fever

So here's a question- How do we amateurs ensure that the barrel is truly aligned with the cylinder? Casting a slug on a rod and pushng it gently into the mouth of the cylinder? Pin gage?

Changing the barrel should have no risk of misalignment with the bore. The cylinder and all it's associated stuff is set up to present the bullet to the center of the hole in the frame.
buying a "range rod" or making up a rod at the land diameter of the barrel and pushing it down the barrel and making sure it goes freely into each chamber without nicking anything will ensure you are in the ballpark and the weapon should be safe to shoot. You'd have to put inserts into the cylinder to know just how close you were to perfect.
It would be good practice to use a range rod to make sure nothing in the lockwork got messed up during the swap, but otherwise not an issue. The thing you will have to fuss with is the front sight alignment. It's pretty hard to see if your front sight is slightly off TDC but as an example .014" on a Regulation Police 3"bbl gun will give you 3" of windage at 25 yards.

The S&W Revolvers, A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen is the standard reference work on the subject if you want to really learn it.

Note to self: "Operate brain before activating fingers." Of course.... (Where is the "feeling really sheepish" emoticon when I need one?)

I think the Kuhnhausen book should be my Christmas present to myself

All S&W barrels run 36 to the inch threads, So, one complete complete revolution takes .02777------ of travel. If you go a complete turn you will need to adjust both ejector rod and center pin. In theory the material could be removed from face of frame, but I always mess with cheapest part if possible. Also, if you do another turn the notch in barrel treads for pin will need a bit of clearancing also. DO NOT try to run a drill trough it after it is tight. A broken .050 drill stuck in your frame is NOT GOOD, The chances of aligning everything perfectly, going though the partial barrel treads and hitting the hole on other side with that small of bit is slim to none and slim doesn't seem to hang around in my shop very often. Don't ask how I know this. That is why S&W runs a notch in the barrel and the pin does not fit tight enough to prevent movement.