Is the pinned barrel still threaded in and the pin holding it straight? Or is it pressed in?

Is there any advantages to a pinned barrel?

Thanks,

Rosewood

Yes, pinned barrels are threaded in, indexed and the pin pressed through the frame and a notch in the threads.

The pin in the barrel is superfluous. Other than the RIA 200/206, the pre 1982 Smiths are the only revolvers with pinned barrels, to my knowledge. Pinned barrels and recessed charge holes are only important to Smith collectors because they represent earlier guns, which are desirable to many of us and they command a premium over non-pinned/recessed guns.

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213th FBINA

The barrels all thread in,
There was a mating channel cut in the barrel for the pin which set the barrel in place.

On a side note when the order came down they simply stopped drilling the set pin hole, many barrels were left in stock with the pin slot cut so not abnormal to find late J, K and N frames if you remove the barrel have the slot cut until those were used up,

A revision advancement usually denoted a part changed, I have a 27-2 that has a recessed cylinder but no barrel set pin, once they ran out of recessed cylinders the 27-3 appears because it had the new part.

Thanks for the info!

So, the non-pinned ones are just torqued in place?

Rosewood

Yes, and Smith and Wesson has let a few go where the front sight was out of registration.. pinned and recessed revolvers command a premium. They were assembled by craftsmen, and they still are very nice,, now guns are assembled by "gun assemblers" I guess..

Smith and Wesson's quality control is a notch or two down from where it used to be.. but not everyone is a fan?? So choose your poison, but if I had a choice between one that wasn't pinned and one that was,, well I'd choose the pinned and recessed revolver all other conditions being the same...

Smith and Wesson is not the only manufacturer who has let a few revolvers out that were out of registration, but that pin had a purpose which it fulfilled admirably.

Hi again, yes, They call it a "crush fit."
When the pin was used, it possibly was to prevent the barrel from backing out. I don't recall seeing that here, it just seems to be logical.
(One of you expert guys: when the pin was eliminated, didn't they also reverse the threading of barrel to frame? I seem to vaguely remember that.)
Anyway, hope this all covers what you were interested in.
Keep up the questions.... many folks that lurk here learn something from them, too. I know I do.

The pinned and non pinned barrels have the same threading,
The set pin garunteed that the barrel would be in proper alignment with the frame because if it was slightly off the pin would not go through the frame.
Have seen more than a few new SWs where the owner posts pics with it out of alignment.

On a side note the newer SW's do not have a rear site channel to align with barrel grooves making a bit harder to notice.

Pinned barrels have several degrees of slop. No guarantee of good alignment.

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Mark

FYI
I had a 29-3 and the barrel was a little canted in the counterclockwise direction from the sighting end. Barely noticeable, but it was there.

You can turn a barrel several degrees in either direction with the pin installed if the shoulder isn't right so it torques properly. The slot in barrel for pin is generous. I know this for a fact. I have had barrels that installed with out torquing up and stuck in the pin. Easy to move barrel in either direction. I have also removed a pinned barrel removed material from shoulder to set it back for proper B/C gap. Just for fun turned barrel to original position and installed pin. Yup easy to move in either direction several degrees.

Pinned or unpinned if the barrel is not torqued up properly it will move and or be out of time. Takes patients to align the barrel just right. Plus, I have one pinned gun where rib and frame channel are perfect, but the front sight itself has a very slight lean to it. The front sight and ramp is only held on by one or 2 small pins and a small tab in a slot on older models where it was not integral.

You can put a pin barrel in a non pin frame or a non pin barrel in a pin frame with a pin. Simply locate where pin should be and file a slot in the threads. When you set a barrel back a tread you simply file the pin notch back one thread.

When you turn any threaded part into something, what you're actually doing is stretching the bolt, barrel shank etc. You're not "crushing" anything. Unless maybe you're referring to the barrel shoulder and matching frame surface.

The pin was kind of salesmanship as the left hand rifling in Colt products could allow the barrel to loosen if it wasn't fitted just right.

How do you align the barrel and have it where it is tight with the barrel in time? What if it is past TDC when it gets tight, how would u fix that?

You back it off until it's even . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

Won't that leave it loose?

If it goes very far past you need to remove a enough from back of barrel so it makes another turn.

Ahh, then you have to face off the cone to fit the cylinder.

Rosewood

Technically, that's the barrel shank or tenon and in most cases recut the forcing cone inside the barrel.

Yes. You may also have to shorten ejector rod and pin.

One complete turn is .02777 so each 10 degrees .0077 and 5 is .0038. Actually I am surprised as to how often the barrel torques up in time with a reasonable B/C gap. The barrel torque does not have to be that high. I fact if it is very high you will get bore choke. The barrel to frame thread engagement being over tightened will squeeze the bore down a bit where they mate. Not crush fit, but compress fit.

My frame wrench has about a 10" handle. I do not need much force on it to tighten or loosen a barrel.

By the way, once the pin is out, a pinned barrel takes just as much force to loosen as a non pinned one

My setup to turn back a barrel shoulder. This is a barrel I made to fit a 10-7. I recently used a similar setup to turn back the barrel on my model 53 barrel that had an eroded forcing cone.

I didn't consider the ejector rod. Good point.

Rosewood