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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 06-29-2022, 06:10 PM
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....got the guns (4 and 6" .22, 4 and 6" .38) and the wood to finish and mount them on. Having a hard time figuring out how to mount them on the slab??? Any ideas or suggestions????

Did the Colt Frontier display using shelves but want this one different...
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Old 06-29-2022, 07:10 PM
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One method I used was the 1 1/2" brass "L" hook. Hopefully this picture will show you.

Of some importance will be the location of the completed display. Since these are current usable firearms, having them out in the open where strangers may go (especially youth), some states have laws making that a violation.

May just depend on the state. If completed display would be in a locked room, there shouldn't be a problem.

That's a very nice looking slab of wood. I love that type of display, or use as a table etc.
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Old 06-29-2022, 07:39 PM
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One method I used was the 1 1/2" brass "L" hook. Hopefully this picture will show you.

Of some importance will be the location of the completed display. Since these are current usable firearms, having them out in the open where strangers may go (especially youth), some states have laws making that a violation.

May just depend on the state. If completed display would be in a locked room, there shouldn't be a problem.

That's a very nice looking slab of wood. I love that type of display, or use as a table etc.
Thanks....had not thought of those L hooks. Bought J hooks, some to big and some to small. You're idea solves that problem.

Last edited by Jerryatric3; 06-29-2022 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 06-29-2022, 07:50 PM
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You might consider an "L" with threads on the short side that will screw into the wood. Slide the barrel over the long side of the "L." Your "system" then becomes nearly invisible.
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Old 06-29-2022, 08:31 PM
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I’ve been using aluminum “wire” that’s made for tying off chain link fence to supports. It’s @ 3/16”, mailable yet solid.

Drill the hole for the wire where it needs to be at an downward angle. Close is good but it looks like you’d get it dialed in. I use black heat shrink tubing to cover. If you leave it a bit proud it’ll actually shrink/cover over the exposed end. You won’t be hitting just a bare piece of metal re-displaying if that’s an issue.

The wire can be bent to level all the examples. If cut long enough it can be bent in a “J” or the whatever shape you want. The heat shrink tube is grippy and protective.

Pictured are obviously not my revolvers but I still have space for them.

Jim
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Old 06-29-2022, 09:08 PM
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You might consider an "L" with threads on the short side that will screw into the wood. Slide the barrel over the long side of the "L." Your "system" then becomes nearly invisible.
Bought some like that for the Colt display. Work great with the butt resting on the shelf. Not sure if revolver to heavy without supporting butt end??? Could do that and use piece of wire like Jim suggested for butt support. Feeling like this is gonna work now.

Last edited by Jerryatric3; 06-29-2022 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 06-29-2022, 09:12 PM
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I’ve been using aluminum “wire” that’s made for tying off chain link fence to supports. It’s @ 3/16”, mailable yet solid.

Drill the hole for the wire where it needs to be at an downward angle. Close is good but it looks like you’d get it dialed in. I use black heat shrink tubing to cover. If you leave it a bit proud it’ll actually shrink/cover over the exposed end. You won’t be hitting just a bare piece of metal re-displaying if that’s an issue.

The wire can be bent to level all the examples. If cut long enough it can be bent in a “J” or the whatever shape you want. The heat shrink tube is grippy and protective.

Pictured are obviously not my revolvers but I still have space for them.

Jim
AWESOME.....thanks. Home Depot time. GREAT IDEAS
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Old 06-29-2022, 09:22 PM
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I use the same “L” screws but I dip them a few times in black plastic dip so that it doesn’t scratch the gun or knife.

I also use ready made black shadow boxes from Michaels, etc. I do re-work the box a bit.. replace cardboard back with 1/4” or 3/8” plywood and cover the front with black fabric. I have a few items framed this way.

I used these same “L” screws on the inside of the safe door and have a few handguns displayed… you can’t see them unless you open the safe.
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Old 06-29-2022, 10:31 PM
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Linda that photo is not up to your usual high standard, but I can just hear the stories behind those insignia, patches, and ribbons.

Do tell, please.
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Old 06-30-2022, 05:16 AM
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I use the same “L” screws but I dip them a few times in black plastic dip so that it doesn’t scratch the gun or knife.

I used these same “L” screws on the inside of the safe door and have a few handguns displayed… you can’t see them unless you open the safe.
I can hardly wait to see how the OP's display turns out!

Linda, what brand of safe do you have, and what is the backing on your safe door that the "L" screws are screwed into? Thanks.
Larry
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Old 06-30-2022, 08:27 AM
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Linda that photo is not up to your usual high standard, but I can just hear the stories behind those insignia, patches, and ribbons.

Do tell, please.
I knew as soon as I posted that full length photo that it was really bad and thought it wouldn’t be noticed. I was too lazy to open the safe and take some new ones. My regular camera is fine but I’m having problems transferring to the computer. I think I used my iPad for that photo!

Here’s new photos with my iPhone… can’t get the detail that far with with the phone

Top revolver is an uncut Webley in .455

Next is a model 10-5, shipped 1963, Boston Army Base, US marked and is a bring back from Vietnam. Used by two different MACV Army Captains (Jim on the left, Jay on the right). The ribbons and insignia are not theirs personally but is a representative of what they earned. It’s still a work in progress. It took a few years to get the research done. The gun was brought back from the Captain whose awards are on the left. I also have his drop leg western style holster, made in Vietnam.

3rd row… left, Victory shipped May 1944 to US Navy, Norfolk, Va and was carried by Stockton Strong, WWII Navy pilot, who earned three Navy Crosses (Battle of Midway…) I have his holster and set of wings

On the right is a USMC “Officer Model” shipped December 1953 to
US Marine Corps Barstow, CA. It has a “parkerized” finish.

Left to right going down.. Victory US Maritime Service; Victory shipped USN Roslyn, VA (OSS); Royal Hong Kong Customs & Excise; Lend Lease Union South Africa May 1940; 2 Hi Standard shipped to War Dept., and last a German Mauser Broomhandle, c.1937 and used during Chinese Civil War with Chinese markings
(stock is a reproduction)

I took the existing fiberboard inner door out and replaced it with 3/4” plywood and re-covered the surface with a thin carpet fabric. Used the same fabric on new shelves and base of safe. When installing the new shelves, I cut them about an inch shorter to allow for the depth of the guns on the inside of the door so they wouldn’t rub when closing. The fiberboard I took out was probably fire retardant, but.. most safes aren’t really fireproof.. they are rated in minutes. I’m more concerned about theft. Make sure you have a smoke alarm above it!

PS… quick warning note…. If you are using any kind of fabric covering be sure to use a nail to open up the hole for the screw.. sort of “ pre-drilling” without a drill bit. If you use a drill bit, the drill will pull the fabric and you’ll wind up with a large wad of fabric wrapped around the drill bit.. don’t ask me how I know!
I have pre-drilled holes in the wood surface before covering with felt.. you just need to poke around with a needle thru the felt to find the hole.
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Last edited by digi-shots; 06-30-2022 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 06-30-2022, 09:22 AM
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Wonderful, Linda. Thanks for sharing the backstory.

Your closeup of the Victory gives the OP yet another view to answer his original question.
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Old 06-30-2022, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Jerryatric3 View Post
....got the guns (4 and 6" .22, 4 and 6" .38) and the wood to finish and mount them on. Having a hard time figuring out how to mount them on the slab??? Any ideas or suggestions????

Did the Colt Frontier display using shelves but want this one different...

Sounds like a good project.. are you going to hang the wood slab horizontally or vertically? Sometimes a room has that perfect spot for a vertical hanging

The suggestions for “L” screws is good and allows easy removal of the revolvers… for showing off or storage back in the safe if necessary. One gun is easy to position, it’s when you have multiples is when it gets harder… do you plan to squeeze one more in at a later date? Do they all face the same way? Any way you decide I’m sure will look good! Keep us posted!
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Old 06-30-2022, 09:55 AM
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Lay the guns out with the slab on the ground. Position them how you like. Mark locations where the support pegs will be needed. Make a jig and drill holes at about a 30 deg. upward angle.

I use 3/8" wood dowels. My wife knits a "cover" for each dowel out of yarn in the color of my choice.
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Old 06-30-2022, 10:16 AM
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Great idea with the wood dowels at an angle!

The ends of the dowels could be covered with empty brass shell cases and “show” the caliber. Use a black ink marker to highlight the headstamp.
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:24 PM
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Sounds like a good project.. are you going to hang the wood slab horizontally or vertically? Sometimes a room has that perfect spot for a vertical hanging

The suggestions for “L” screws is good and allows easy removal of the revolvers… for showing off or storage back in the safe if necessary. One gun is easy to position, it’s when you have multiples is when it gets harder… do you plan to squeeze one more in at a later date? Do they all face the same way? Any way you decide I’m sure will look good! Keep us posted!
Going to mount wood on wall horizontal. Still playing with layout. Do you remember the length of your L brackets. Found 1" and 1 1/2" on Amazon.... So many great ideas.
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Old 06-30-2022, 04:30 PM
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I have various sizes for guns and also knives. Some of the L’s had to be screwed into the wood quite a bit.. but just enough to snug down on the gun frame. I used a spare L to do this with a pair of pliers… the L got quite scratched and chewed up. Once I had the right depth, I took it out and put the black rubber coated one in by hand.

Some of the smaller L’s didn’t seem hefty enough and the threaded end was almost non-existent. It all depends what part of the gun is going to be supported and the type of gun. I bought a couple of packs from Lowes, they have a good variety.

Here’s some photos to give an idea of sizes,,
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